Hello and welcome to the Small Winemakers Tasting Dozen
SWTD February 2026
The combined elements of a cool maritime climate, gravelly sandy loam soils, and superb growing conditions all come together perfectly to solidify Margaret River as Australia’s premium growing region. (Some Panadol please! There’s some in every Region). Thanks to the trial and error of pioneers over the generations, Cape Margaret can secure fruit from the regions very best sites. We pride ourselves on delivering the unique essence of Margaret River in each and in each and every bottle. Mulberry, blackcurrant and dark cherries, French oak, wild field mushroom, black olive, mint and tobacco leaf notes. Balance and weight, perfect oak and fruit integration with a touch more elegance and bright perfume characteristic.
Not referred to in the Notes, eight to ten years.
I was drawn to this wine by way of an email from Bacchus Wines offering it as a Valentine’s Day special. I needed a Cabernet Sauvignon and eventually ordered it. I had seen Cape Margaret in their Portfolio for years, tried it, and thought good value here, representing the Margaret River Region ‘instinctively.’ When I came to the Notes I couldn’t find much at all online. Given the people involved, Bacchus and Winemaker, Mark Messenger, long term Juniper Estate maker, I was on board.
Available to Retail.
Web: www.capemargaret.com.au
Sydney Wholesaler: Bacchus Wines Ph. 1300 309 773.
Our Chenin Blanc is grown on clay and flint soils on top of a thick limestone plateau overlooking the Cher River. The mild Autumn season allows us to harvest the grapes at perfect maturity. Two thirds of the juice is fermented at cold temperatures (13° to 16°C) in stainless steel tanks and the other one third in oak barrels. The fermentation naturally stops when the perfect balance between the sugar and the acidity is reached. The tense and dry style is a legacy of the great Chenin Blanc from Vouvray. Bright gold colour. Expressive and extremely fruity nose. Ripe apricot, pear and quince combine with candied orange, plum and delicate notes of smoke. The palate is rich and smooth, structured by delicate wood. Fruity flavours balanced with a pleasant minerality. The finish lingers and calls for the table.” A Loire perspective: “Our Chenin Blanc is enjoyed as aperitif with homemade ‘petit fours’ or with sweet and sour dishes such as roast pork or orange marengo chicken.
“Ageing potential two to four years.” This wine is under cork, but I would expect to be able to enjoy it at 10+ years.
“This Chenin Blanc is an indigenous variety from the Loire Valley. It is a perfect match with Loire Terroirs, its capacity to produce exceptional wines with a great longevity (!! perhaps translation) leads us to the vinification of this wine. Produced in limited quantities in our Touraine vineyard, we elaborated this ‘modern style’ cuvée while looking for perfect balance between the freshness and the aromas.”
Available to Retail.
Website: www.fournier-pere-fils.com
Distributor: Sydney, Young & Rashleigh (02) 9967 5900.
10-15% whole bunch, from Blewitt Springs dry grown Bush vines that are around 85 years of age. Aged in foudre, (large wooden vat. Lower surface to wine ratio, minimal oak is imparted and good preservation of fruit characteristics). Our Grenache is a staple of the Geddes name, and this wine is no exception. With raspberry, red currant, cinnamon, nutmeg and slight minerality on the nose. A palate of light berries, red apple and a fine tannin from start to finish, this wine is stylish and typical of the Geddes charm.
Five to eight years, conservatively.
To reconfirm the context, I first heard of Geddes Wines by way of a friend who quoted a third person, saying according to Philip White, Geddes Shiraz is worth a serious look. That was enough for me as I have long admired his writing. Hence his Shiraz inclusion in August 2025. The friend at the time also said Blewitt Springs was turning heads with Grenache wines. Mention of this was also made by White in a tongue in cheek way. So, when O’Donohoe said he had a wine for the Dozens, I thought I’d go for a drive and see if I could get some from Tim. While there, I tried a Carignan, also interesting, and a bottle purchased. I then asked Tim for three of his wines for myself to try. I’m yet to do so, but interestingly two of the three he picked were Grenache. And thirdly, a Shiraz.
Limited availability to retail.
Web: www.geddeswines.com.au
Phone: 0407 217 798
Open: Daily 10 to 5.
Address: 283 Blewitt Springs Road, Blewitt Springs, 5170.
Grenache was sourced from old, low yielding, dry grown vineyards within the Watervale sub region of the Clare Valley, were vinified separately, and gently basket pressed. The parcels remained separate until the final wine was assembled. Maturation in a selection of seasoned French oak puncheons for nine months provides a softness and elegance to the plush velvet palate. The colour of the finished wine is deep cherry red. The nose shows fresh red berry compote and soft spice notes. Rich and enveloping, the wine fills the palate whilst remaining light and fresh. Flavours of fresh tart raspberry are bright and supported by a core of darker berries and plum. Silky tannins that hint at the seamless French oak add further to the length as they softly dissolve on the satisfied finish.
“Now and until 2032.”
“A dry, cool autumn in 2021 led into good winter rains. Above average spring falls gave way to a very cool, dry summer of 2022.These conditions slowed the ripening of the grapes, resulting in full flavours with good natural acidity. A rare vintage where quantity is good and quality is exceptional. Like the biblical story of the prodigal son who returned to his family, welcomed with open arms, such is the return of Grenache to the consciousness and palates of wine lovers around the world. Grenache has long been the workhorse variety in Australia. Originally planted to produce fortified wines.” This is from the Notes, and I reckon there would be many a smile on old winemakers’ faces of 80 years + who have always known the ‘workhorse’ made some bloody good wines in partnership with Shiraz etc. Other Rhone Valley varieties, particularly in South Australia! Generational?
Available to Retail
Web: www.kilikanoon.com.au
Phone: 08 8843 4206
Fax: 08 8843 4246
Open: Thurs. to Sun. 11 to 5.
Address: Penna Lane, Penwortham, S.A., 5453.
85% Garnacha and 15% Carinena (Grenache and Carignan) was crushed into stainless steel for fermentation for 45 days under controlled temperature. Six months in used barrels followed by storage in underground concrete vats until bottling. It exhibits a dense ruby / purple tinged colour as well as delicious, crunchy black cherry and raspberry fruit with notions of cacao and vanilla thanks to the short stay in barrels. This medium to full bodied, pure, fruity and savoury Grenache should be enjoyed young and fresh.
In the order of three to five years.
“2022 was a year of low rainfall, slightly below average. This, together with the plant’s water stress, produced loose clusters and small berries. Temperatures throughout the growing season reflected the fact that the winter was not very cold, but the summer was characterised by heat waves. The vineyards are in Almonacid de la Sierra (Northern Spain), at an altitude of more than 700m, on stony clay soils with loam and slate in higher areas. The wine is called La Vandina which comes from part of the municipality.” A hundred and eighty degrees from this wine’s inclusion was an intention to add another South African Chenin Blanc. It was temporarily unavailable. A phone call from Michael O’Donohoe and a want to use Tim Geddes Grenache all promoted the variety, all three in this Dozen. This Spanish wine confirmed the idea after I read a nice write up, plus its outstanding good value.
Available to Retail.
Web: www.bodegafamilianavascues.com
Distributor: Sydney, Young & Rashleigh (02) 9967 5900.
100% Hunter Valley Semillon fruit sourced from our Honeytree Vineyard in Pokolbin. A classic Hunter Semillon style of tank fermentation with early bottling to preserve freshness. In the early years, there are gentle citrus notes on the nose with a palate that displays ripe lemon and straw, with linear acidity. Intense with great length.
“Can be enjoyed immediately or cellared up to 25+years.” Pretty amazing.
Winemaking and Tasting Notes are minimal from this producer, which is a shame as it is the words from the source that I think make them so worthwhile. So, again, I will refer to several writers' comments. This should be viewed in general terms. It initially referred to the 2022 vintage, but as the vineyard source and winemaking has been the same for some time, the ‘general’ idea of high quality is maintained. Firstly was a high rating from James Halliday, probably the most experienced writer of Hunter Wines, generally, now retired. Two extracts: “A beautifully made Semillon and The quality of the fruit is awesome.” The colour is very pale yellow with a diminishing green edge and an aromatic nose prominently featuring lanolin, typical of Hunter Semillon. Among others: 'passion fruit' is also mentioned. Wonderful acidity and great length, again. High quality of the wine is confirmed enthusiastically by all writers, as is its extended cellaring potential.
Available to Retail.
Web: www.mounteyre.com
Phone: 0438 683 973
Open: Thursday to Monday 10.00 to 4.00
Address: 130 Gillards Road, Pokolbin, 2320.
The grapes were picked early in the morning, pressed off skins into tank for fermentation with high solids to provide complexity and texture while still retaining fresh flavours. Fermentation at a constant 12°C was completed slowly over four weeks. This allowed retainment of fresh aromas and flavours while providing creamy texture and mouthfeel. A small portion was fermented with wild yeast in older French oak barriques to add front palate richness and extra dimension. The wine was left on lees with weekly stirring to protect the freshness of the wine and adding further complexity. This wine has been made to reflect the Italian expression of this grape variety. The nose offers up an abundance of fresh Nashi pear, melon and ginger root. The palate displays flavours of yellow pear, green apple and fresh almonds with subtle spice and quince notes. A bright acid backbone supports the excellent fruit weight and intensity leading to a balanced finish that is crisp and clean.
Made to enjoy in its youth. Now.
“Pinot Grigio is the Italian name for the French variety Pinot Gris. The crisp Pinot Grigio from Northern Italy is picked early to produce a fresh and racy wine with an underlying mineral backbone of acidity.” The King Valley is full of Italian heritage, charm and innovation. And with surnames of the winemakers, above, it’s no surprise their interpretation of the variety is Italian. I read a very good review of this wine and curiosity and availability lands it.
Available to Retail.
Web: www.santandsas.com.au
Phone: +61 417 384 272
No Cellar Door
The Pirouette – meaning spin, twirl and swirl – is a complex Chardonnay. Fruit was hand picked from Juliet Cullen’s Excelsior Peak vineyard in Tumbarumba. The wine was 100% barrel fermented (20% new) in temperature controlled conditions. 20% underwent Malolactic fermentation. Aged for eight months in 25% premium new French barriques (medium toast), stirring the lees to take the wine to the next level. The first aroma is of that 'distinct struck match,' followed by aromas of ripe white nectarine, green melon, pear and buttered toast. This is an outstanding wine, mixing old school Chardonnay winemaking technique with new world fruit characters, we hope you enjoy it as much as we do.
“The high natural acidity of Tumbarumba fruit gives this wine a cellaring potential of eight to ten years.”
One of the best things about the Dozens, post COVID and post ‘Employer(s)’ is to be able to get out and about again around southeast Australia. I’m aware of the need for more planning but to just jump in the car and set off is a wonderful freedom. I was travelling east out of Adelaide toward Beechworth to a place called Killawarra. Suitably noting the name of this village, I was to pick up some fragile car parts that I didn’t want sent. I received an email from Carla that included the release of this Chardonnay. So I picked up the parts and headed toward Canberra to find Carla justifiably in ‘mad woman’ mode as they had the mobile bottling outfit in full swing. This included semi trailer truck, a big deal. I grabbed the wine and got out if their way.
Available to Retail. (Limited)
Phone: 0410 770 894.
Cellar Door: 23 Malbon Street Bungendore 2621.
Open: Friday 11:00 - 20:00 & Weekends 12:00 to 16:00. Approx.
Fruit from four vineyards 950 to 1080m altitude. Multiple Riesling clones across the sites. Separate hand picks, from late March to mid April, 2023 into 10kg baskets. Chilled overnight and then lightly pressed. Fermentation was 60% in old French puncheons and 40% in stainless steel tanks. Battonage (lees stirring, adding texture and complexity) for the first two months. The wine is a pale colour with green and yellow hues. An up front hit of citrus on the nose, more in the cumquat and lime spectrum. Lime marmalade. A myriad of fruit characters – custard apple, golden kiwi and pear. A hint of dry hay, nettles and ginger. A spike of fresh acidity that underlines the whole palate, tingling and lively. It’s overlaid with a generous, textural, mealy mid-palate. Some alcohol warmth and plenty of fruit carries on well into the back palate. Structure is prominent with pithy tannins holding the wine together and preserving it for many years to come. Lovely balance.
I heard longer, but 10+ years. And any time along the way.
“This Riesling aims to show fruit driven and floral characters, very much in the lime and citrus blossom spectrum. Dry, precise and pretty in youth, age worthy and complex underneath. Purity of acid and freshness is important, as is youthful drinkability.” It’s worth a note here that Will, and Carla (Sapling Yard), both having wines in this Dozen spent time, Vintages, at Canobolas Smith in Orange in the early 2000s, and is where I met them. Both are on their own winemaking journeys, beginning at a more prosperous wine time we all remember, toward more challenging futures we must deal with. They’ll be there somehow.
Cellar Door or contact me.
Web: www.rikardwines.com.au
Winery Details
Phone: 0481 871 683
Open: Thursday to Monday 11.00 to 5.00.
Address: 279 Old Canobolas Road, Nashdale, NSW, 2800.
Medium ruby in colour. Fruit characters of cherry and raspberry are supported by aromas of rose petal and anise. Intensely aromatic, the wine also has savoury, leathery notes. The wine is classic Nebbiolo, with concentrated sour cherry and raspberry fruit characters. These fruit characters are balanced by tight but lingering acidity, earthiness and typical Nebbiolo tannin structure. Nebbiolo's notoriously colour-light but tannin rich skins are a critical factor in making this wine. Fruit intensity, structure and balance are the result.
“Will gain complexity for 15+ years.”
Deja vu anyone? Not quite perhaps. This is the same 3 Drops Nebbiolo that was in the February 2024 Dozen and its presence here is not a mistake. Jo, Boss Lady at Bacchus Wines, sent out a general email before Christmas (2025), with quite a number of wines that were seriously discounted ‘Specials’ for the Season’s wine buyers’ consideration. Whether or not Bacchus will continue with this wine I don’t know, as Jo explained, sales aren’t happening. Wine Education ho ho ho! Anyway, as there wasn’t anything else I was interested in I put the email out of my mind. But then I thought, here’s an opportunity. Jo has a beautiful air conditioned warehouse in Auburn, Sydney, which meant the wine would be in perfect conditions for the subsequent two years. So, with two years bottle age or development, wouldn't it be a nice opportunity to have another look? I reckoned so.
Available to Retail.
Web: www.3drops.com
Phone: 0417 172 603
Open: No Cellar Door
Address: PO Box 1828, Applecross, Western Australia, 6953
Vintage 2025, this is a young wine. A hugely flavoursome glass full of character. Apparently of medium sweetness, fleshy fruit that somehow finishes dry, I think you should probably, at this stage treat it as an aperitif. Michael is an older pensioner and has no qualms in saying he uses wood chips. He told me last year he will make wine until he’s 90. The price of a new oak barrel isn’t considered. I couldn’t detect any wood in the wine and it makes a difference. He told me he did add the chips but conceded it may have been underdone. It may marry in with time down the track.
Very hard to say. It will develop over time for sure (Five years). I did try his first effort, the 2002, at 19 years of age (screw cap) and though tiring, it was very drinkable. That was the wine Philip White said was the best wine from the Riverland he’d ever seen.
Michael’s words. “We continue to make wine in our very small Tom’s Drop vineyard, with minimal water and low yielding Mataro and Shiraz vines. The Mataro are the oldest of the two, planted in 1964 and Shiraz planted in 1994. We generally have very hot summers, the temperature rising to 49.6°C for one day this year. (2026). Always the weeds protect things and under the compost small creatures bustle about in the shade. Snails get lost and lose their way in attempts to find the vines, and generally things are pest free. Very little water is used, only drip irrigation and crops are way under two tonnes per acre. I do what South Africa does: low water and low crops. The Riverland should do this, too. Years ago, at a Growers Meeting at a Riverland winery in Glossop, 750 growers talked about this new wine, Tom’s Drop. But the big wineries didn’t catch on. Big crops and low prices are an unsustainable disaster with many growers turning it all, off, especially with the reds.”
Contact Michael O'Donohoe 0478 288 379, or contact me.
Web: www.tomsdropwines.com.au
No Cellar Door. Just a few Sheds and a lot of conversation.
100% Coonawarra Shiraz. This wine was made from fruit that was harvested at optimum maturity and then fermented on skins for 10 days under controlled temperatures using a combination of static, pulse air and rotary fermenters. Maturation for 15 months in French and American oak Hogshead barrels has assisted in the development of a wine that shows vibrancy and richness. The colour is deep purple / red. An enticing nose filled with raspberry and ripe plum. The palate is restrained and well structured with ripe red fruits, soft tannins and subtle oak notes.
“Well structured and outstanding depth of fruit, up to 10 years.
A little bit more from the Notes, which I think is important: “the Zema family is proudly traditional in its approach to vineyard practices, favouring hand pruning and limited irrigation to maximise fruit quality. These practices are enhanced by the families three strategically selected prime vineyard locations, capitalising on the region’s subtle climatic variations.” Again a release with significant bottle age. American oak is not as dominant here as I remember in its predecessor. Winemaking decisions or a better quality of crop?
Available to Retail.
Web: www.zema.com.au
All prices on this web site are in $AUD
Liquor Licence LIQP24009748
Trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners.
Under the Liquor Act 2007, It is an offence to sell or supply to or to obtain liquor on behalf of a person under the age of 18 years.
You will be required to provide proof of age before any goods are shipped.
