SWTD February 2018
Fruit for Bird on a Wire Chardonnay has been sourced from the Upper Yarra, in particular, Gladysdale since 2009. I have worked this vineyard prior to that, going back to 2004. The particular block is 39 years old and sits high up in the Yarra Valley. Clone P58. Fruit was hand picked and whole bunch pressed to tank where it settled for two days. The juice was then racked off solids. Then the beneficial solids were then racked and incorporated into the juice clears. The juice and solids was then put to oak to go through wild fermentation which took about 14 to 17 days. (The oak selected was a mix of 25% new mercury, 25% one to two year old, the balance being old oak. All barriques and all French). Small crops across all varieties and all of the Yarra Valley in 2014 make this a very limited production. However the quality of the fruit is apparent in the end product, a beautifully balanced, concentration, fine Chardonnay with depth. Balance between fruit and acid are evident in the wine. It is generous yet refined, great length and great impact.
Five years +
I have been talking about the Bird on a Wire Chardonnay with Nicholas Gibson for the last three Dozens. Initial reference from him was: “very good but too expensive for you.” I was unaware of his 'advisor' role so I thought his authority should be challenged. There was concern: is it to be up to last year's standard? I need not have worried. Reps are funny sometimes!
Available to Retail.
Phone: 0439 045 000
No Cellar Door. Visit by appointment.
Address: 51 Symons Street, Healsville, Vic., 3777.
Web: birdonawirewines.com.au
Grapes were destemmed into open fermenters, approximately 15% whole berry, for two to three days pre-ferment maceration. Fermentation peak at 28° C with pump overs four times a day. Drained and pressed after nine to twelve days on skins. Settled for 24 hours before racking to oak for Malo Lactic Fermentation. Oak maturation for twelve months (10%) new and seasoned French oak hogsheads and puncheons. Malbec is rarely seen as a varietal but here at Bleasdale in Langhorne Creek it stands on its own two feet and performs well enough to earn its own stripes. This wine shows vibrant primary fruit flavours of plums, red berries and red pepper spice. Finishing soft and round with velvety smooth tannins.
“Drinking well now until 2023".
A distinctly South Australian wine, as with their Crows (or South Australian Ravens in the book). I have long intended exploring the Langhorne Creek Malbec 'thing.' Browsing in a Retail outlet recently with abandoned concentration (those who know me will appreciate my talent in this 'skill'), I was made attentive with the Bleasdale Malbec encounter. With the purchase and enjoyment of the wine I thought it was time for a conversation with Rob Potts, always enjoyable and also distinctly South Australian.
Available to Retail.
Phone: 08 8537 3001
Open: Daily 10 to 5.
Web: bleasdale.com.au
Address: 1640 Langhorne Creek Road, Langhorne Creek, S.A., 5255.
The wine is deep red in colour. On the nose, a classic cool climate Shiraz, which shows plum fruit, spice and black pepper characters. There is some subtle complexity and quality French oak characters of char and cedar. A rich and generous front palate fills the mouth with plum fruits. There is a thread of black pepper running the length of palate, reminding us of its cool climate origins. The wine has great poise and balance thanks to balanced acidity and firm ripe tannins. This also provides power and drive, yet, wonderful restraint. The high quality French oak adds cedary characters and blends really well with the cool climate spice notes. The wine has great length and the flavours linger in the mouth long after the wine has gone.
“Will continue to improve and develop complexity with age; cellar eight to ten years.”
This was a bit of a 'find' I thought, to discover a 2012 Shiraz still available in a wholesaler's portfolio. This wine popped up in a Jacki Osborne conversation. She was talking about her day with Robert Diletti visiting various outlets looking at a number of his wines. She mentioned how consistently popular the Shiraz was. A Great Southern Shiraz shouldn't surprise, but at first I was unaware it was a six year old. “Tell me more please.” Now we all can.
Available to Retail.
Phone/Fax: 08 9853 1035
Web: www.castlerockestate.com.au
Address: 2660 Porongurup Road, Porongurup, W.A., 6324.
The Pankhurst 2015 Tempranillo is an outstanding example of the variety. Made from the most preferred clone of the variety (D8V12), it exhibits that lively, fruitful palate. The conditions in 2015 were very warm and the fruit ripened early, enabling great fruit characters to predominate. The resulting wine is 13.4% alcohol, with smooth mouth feel and a good tannin backbone to support the palate weight.
“Welcome in a glass now, even in warmer weather, and over the medium term, three to five years.”
I rang Pankhurst Wines and spoke to Christine to tell her of a couple of things, both wine related. The important one was that I made up a mixed dozen from 'left overs' for a friend who 'did time' in the wine scene. Amongst the mix was a couple of Chardonnay wines, one of which was the Pankhurst 2013 (August 2016 Dozen). Anyway, his rave on this wine was of the highest order. The wine having another 16 months in the bottle. During the phone call I also registered Christine's own unguarded keenness on their current Tempranillo. Sticking to the instinctive reaction that this is one of the best sort of recommendations, a home one, the Tempranillo move in.
Cellar Door or contact me. Limited Retail.
Phone: 02 6230 2592
Open: Weekends and Public Holidays.
Address: Old Woodgrove Road, Woodgrove, Hall, NSW, 2618
Web: pankhurstwines.com.au
The principal aim was to preserve the pristine delicateness of this unique variety. Here you will find a bouquet that is lively with citrus flower, musk and gooseberry. Superb flavours of dainty acidity accompany grapefruit, lime and apple with hints of pepper on the palate.
“Enjoy now.”
“Paul and Kathy Drogemuller share a true passion and commitment to producing exciting and distinctive wines. Paracombe 2017 Adelaide Hills Pinot Blanc is a wine set to turn heads in Australia. Pinot Blanc is the white grape member of the Pinot grape family and originated from the Alsace region in France. This exciting first release from Paracombe was made from grapes carefully harvested in March from the cool southern slopes of the family vineyard.” I found out about this in a timely manner really. For the last Dozen of last year, I was guided to the sparkling Pinot Blanc from Alsace: Joseph Cattin Cremant d'Alsace Brut. And then, with this Dozen I was told of the first release of Paracombe's Pinot Blanc. What a terrific discovery. Heads will 'turn.'
Available to Retailers.
Phone: 08 8380 5058
Open:By appointment.
Address: 294b Paracombe Road, Paracombe, S.A., 5132.
Web: www.paracombewines.com
When optimal flavour and tannin ripeness was reached the Shiraz and Grenache were hand picked, crushed and co-fermented as an expression of the famous Marion Vineyard site rather than varietal expression. Once complete the ferment was transferred to a mix of 20% new and 80% seasoned French oak for 15 months. Deep crimson in colour this wine shows the power and intensity that only old vines can bring. Aromas of raspberry, plum and cherry with menthol, tobacco and mint, that is so distinctive to this vineyard, layered over with a touch of toasty oak. The palate is a juicy, round mouth full. The tannins are present enough for a beautiful structure but are soft, mellow and integrated into the abundance of fruit.
“Drink now or cellar for up to 10 years.”
88% Grenache and 12% Shiraz this wine is brooding beautifully. I first saw this wine in a 'van tasting' in a side street in Carlingford. Again, with Nicholas Gibson, he rung me to say he had a number of bottles open and would be free mid afternoon. I remembered this wine but was unaware of its heritage. A summary of this is on the back label if you can focus on the small print. In essence it is an old suburban vineyard in Adelaide. “In 2006 the the City of Marion decided that the last operational winery in the district, Patritti, should be given the responsibility of caring for the vineyard. Now well over 100 years old the Marion Vineyard is the world's oldest commercial, urban vineyard and one of the few remaining glimpses into the City's agricultural past.”
Available to Retail.
Phone: 08 8296 8261
Cellar Door: Monday to Saturday 9.00 to 5.00.
Address: 13 – 23 Clacton Road, Dover Gardens, S.A., 5048.
Web: www.patritti.com.au
The winemaking involves a selection of techniques from cold maceration to maintain the fruit weight and freshness, and hot fermentation to add that typical Pizzini style to the wine. This wine was aged in a mixture of large format oak barrels and barriques with some batches aged in stainless steel tanks to maintain vibrancy and freshness. Bright brick red in colour with a purple hue. The nose is full and fragrant, boasting red berries, plums and dried herbs, maraschino cherries, spices and blackberries. The wine is fleshy and juicy with softly textured tannins, soft acidity and great length. Medium bodied, and extremely easy to drink.
“ 'Easy to drink,' now, and to 2025.”
“The fruit for this wine currently comes from a selection of our vineyard sites that naturally produce medium bodied wine styles. Over time this wine may evolve to include specific parcels of fruit selected from within the King Valley region.” Pizzini is a dynamic producer and has an impressive range of wines. Somewhere it says that their first Sangiovese wine was in 1996, and indeed it is a relatively recent variety in this country. I always thought it to be a good inclusion to add 'variety' to the Dozens. Recently, at a function, I saw this wine, the 2016 consumed to near extinction. So well received, here it is.
Available to Retail.
Phone: 03 5729 8278
Fax: 03 5729 8495
Open: Daily 10 to 5.
Address: 175 King Valley Road, Whitfield, Victoria, 3678.
Web: www.pizzini.com.au
Grapes were harvested by hand in late March 2017. They were destemmed and crushed before pressing. The lightly fined juice was racked at cool temperatures and fermented in stainless steel to retain freshness. The wine remained on lees and stirred to add complexity. The colour is pale gold with green notes. The nose is a complex amalgam of stone fruit and florals. There are underlying nuances of pear and quince. The palate is full and generous with piles of rich phenolic texture backed up with stone fruit and almond nuttiness. Mineral and slate acidity gives the wine focus and a fine balanced finish.
“Drink and very much enjoy now and over the next three to five years.”
“Rowlee is situated at the foot of Mount Canobolas in Orange NSW. The 20 acre, basalt soil vineyard was planted in 2000 with Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Pinot Noir, and the cool climate Italian varieties Arneis and Nebbiolo. With its highest point at 920m, gradually falling to 900m, the vineyards natural fall provides protection from spring frosts by drawing the flow of cold air through the vineyard. The site can also experience snow throughout winter – perfect for the production of cool climate wines.” The altitude of the vineyard is the initial attraction.
Available to Retail.
Phone: 0438 059 108
Cellar Door: Daily 11.00 to 5.00.
Address: Lake Canobolas Road, Orange, NSW. 2800.
Web: www.rowleewines.com.au
This Blue Label Pinot Noir, clone MV6, is a blend from six 'Six Acres' vineyards: Six Acres Silvan, Swallowfield, Gembrook, Syme and Gruyere Yarra Valley vineyards. After blending the White Label Pinot Noir, the best of the rest is the Blue Label. The blend is incredibly 'smashable.' Juicy, fresh and balanced. Ferments ranged from 100% destemmed to 100% whole bunch. The final whole bunch in blend is 30%. Utilised, is a mixture of wild and cultured yeasts and natural Malo Lactic Fermentation. Individual ferments basket pressed to tank once dry, full solids to barrel. Gravity flow winemaking used where p;possible. One racking out of barrels for blending, one racking prior to bottling, minimal SO2. Unfined, unfiltered and bottled by gravity. An earthy nose with a hint of red cherry and raspberry. A palate of velvety dark fruits and soft savoury tannin and well balanced acidity.
'Five years.”
Also in the Notes: “This wine pairs well with a wide range of foods. It is ideal with salmon and other fatty fish, roasted chicken, pasta and especially complements duck.” Originally, I had included the Six Acres Cabernet Merlot, but unfortunately there was an accident in its despatch, with bottles broken and a temporary 'order lost in transport.' Last weekend (10/3), Ralph Zuccaro, at the same price replaced the Cabernet Merlot with the more expensive Blue Label, which was expedited by Nicholas Gibson. I mention this to not only acknowledge Ralph's much appreciated gesture in a time starved exercise, but also it sweetens my interest in Six Acres, stirred up after the Carlingford 'van tasting.'
Available to Retail.
Phone: 0408 991 741
Open: Saturday & Sunday 10.00 to 4.00
Address: 20 Ferndale Road, Silvan, Victoria, 3795.
Web: www.sixacreswines.com.au
Fruit was harvested in the cool of the night to prevent oxidation and retain flavour. Some post crushing cold maceration skin contact was employed to increase flavour extraction. Only the free run fraction (530L/T) was used and fermentation at 12° to 14° C using a variety of yeasts to enhance the varietal expression. In the glass the colour hints at golden straw. The aromatics of this wine reflect the blending of the two Riesling areas: Mt Barker gives rose petals and jasmine overlying crushed limes; whilst Frankland River contributes exiting grapefruit zest with hints of spice. These flavours carry onto the palate with the lime and grapefruit dancing across slatey natural acid to a satisfying dry finish.
“Attractive and approachable in its youth, however for those with patience will be rewarded from six to eight years careful cellaring.”
“2017 was slow to get out of the blocks with a cool, overcast spring slowing grape ripening which helped develop amazing fruit flavours and zingy natural acids. Constant rainy periods kept everyone on high alert for fungal diseases and picking was dictated by our keen weather eye, all efforts resulting in intense and high quality fruit.” The { Sum } is a Castelli wine and is so well priced it helped sponsor the February Chardonnay.
Available to Retail.
Phone: 08 9364 0400
Open: Cellar Door visits by appointment.
Address: 380 Mt Shadforth Road, Denmark, W.A., 6333.
Web: www.castelliestate.com.au
100% Langhorne Creek Touriga from 20 year old vines. A 'hands off approach' is employed during the making of this wine to give the true interpretation of this variety. The fruit is destemmed only and whole berries are fermented with wild yeast for seven days. The wine is basket pressed to old oak puncheons (seven to eight years old) for three months. It is then bottled without fining or filtering. On the nose, a lifted aroma of crushed wild flowers, spice and plums. On the palate, flavours of plum, earth and spice. The palate is soft and approachable with fine, building tannins.
“5+ years.”
Touriga? Very definitely this varietal was its own reason for inclusion. It adds plenty to the assortment here, and is a good drink, which is pretty important. From the Notes: “Touriga was originally planted in Australia over 60 years ago for fortified wine production. It is now showing its flair as a red table wine variety. Sourced from a well established vineyard in Langhorne Creek, the wine shows the varieties floral and spice aromas with a beautifully soft and juicy palate.” I remember the Lindsays in Young made a Touriga table wine that had besides the above descriptors, attractive confectionery notes.
Available to Retail.
Phone: 0405 294 500.
No Cellar Door.
Address: 49 Fraser Avenue, Happy Valley, S.A., 5159.
Web: 3dh.com.au
Semillon from the Two Rivers vineyard was harvested in the cool of the night to reduce oxidation and retain natural flavours. The fruit was crushed and pressed before daylight and then allowed to cold settle for two days. Fermentation was carried out by a neutral yeast allowing all the natural fruit flavours to develop. The finished wine has been gently fined with all natural products. This wine is a classic Hunter Semillon with lifted aromas of citrus and sweet pea. The palate is fine and delicate with flinty characters and flavours of zesty floral citrus.
Medium term three to five years.
As a reminder this 'Upper Hunter' wine is “from the spectacular 'Inglewood' Vineyard located in the upper reaches of the Hunter Valley. 'Two Rivers' was drawn from the vineyards unique position nestled on the banks the Hunter River near its confluence with the Goulburn River.” Lingering memories of the outstanding 2014 vintage and a conversation with Jacki Osborn, where she related this wine's strong performance in recent wine shows would and should attract the attention of any Semillon devotee. It's a simple thing really.
Available to Retail.
Phone: 02 6547 2556
Fax: 02 6547 2546
Open: Daily 11 to 4.
Address: 2 Yarrawa Road, Denman,NSW, 2328.
Web: tworiverswines.com.au
All prices on this web site are in $AUD
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Under the Liquor Act 2007, It is an offence to sell or supply to or to obtain liquor on behalf of a person under the age of 18 years.
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