Small Winemakers Tasting Dozens |
| GRAHAM STEVENS OF GRAHAM STEVENS WINESIn Robin Bradley’s 1982 book: The Small Wineries of Australia it is documented that Graham Stevens began his winemaking career in 1962 with d’Arry Osborn at d’Arenberg in McLaren Vale. As with others, McLaren Vale, the region, was the stage from which he developed his splendid craft. “Graham believes unquestionably that McLaren Vale grown Shiraz grapes are the best in the world, and we should be proud if our style of reds, and not try to change them to something they are not.” In 1969 Graham left d’Arenberg to work for Hugh Lloyd, where he stayed for ten years as winemaker and wine style creator for the newly established Coriole. Along the way he commenced his own operation, Stevens Cambrai, at McLaren Flat, where he was to work it full time from 1979 until, due to ill health, it was sold in 1997. Wherever you read about Graham’s winemaking, you absorb the lines alluding to his skill and experience. They’re basic requirements for long term success in wine shows across the country. But also, there is regular reference to his firm ideas on wine styles. “Ideas” of “elegance” in the finished wine is always a partner in his impressive record. With the sale of Stevens Cambrai in 1997, retirement was now due for processing. And there were fish begging his attention! There was however at this time purchase of quality grape growing acreage on Ingolby Road at McLaren Flat. Was retirement just a theory? “Graham is a true man of the land and with over 50 years of vineyard experience, he knows how to get the best out of the vines. He has long been quoted as saying ‘anybody can make bad wine from good fruit, but no-one can make good wine from bad fruit.’ So for Graham, quality winemaking starts in the vineyard.” “Superior cuttings were sourced for his newly acquired land. The vines were quietly planted and nurtured. And the grapes were sold to appreciative wineries in the region. But people kept approaching him saying: ‘Graham, I wish I still had some of your wines…….but I have drunk them all! You should get back to winemaking.’ ” “And so due to a serious lack of fish in the South Australian gulf waters leading to almost terminal boredom, Graham decided to renounce his retirement.” With the assistance of Carolyn, Graham’s daughter, winemaking resumed with the 2005 vintage and the Graham Stevens Wines new Cellar Door opened in May 2009. At the Cellar Door you will meet both Graham and Carolyn, “the family that makes the wine” making your visit both informed and memorable. “Although we are father and daughter, Graham and I run the winery and vineyard as a team. It’s just the two of us for the most part, so its good we get on so well” In the Cellar Door Brochure the wines currently available are: Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Grenache Nouveau 2008, Graham’s Vat 52 2006, already a Gold Medal winner, is a wine made from Grenache, Shiraz and a smaller amount of Cabernet Sauvignon, Stevens Family Shiraz 2005 and a Reserve Shiraz 2005. Just available through Cellar Door is a ‘Limited Release’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, also a Gold Medal winner. In regards to quality of these wines, they can all be greeted with full confidence straight into your glass to savour. As Robin Bradley signed off in his1982 book, with his or any other wine, Graham’s approach remains: “never mind how ‘interesting’ a wine it is, but how good is it?” And finally on the day I visited this new venture I spoke to another regional winemaker who provided in his own way, probably the best compliment regarding Graham as a winemaker, that of a peer: “I reckon he’s wearing the same overalls he used to at Cambrai. And why not, he made some bloody good wines in them. He’s driving the same old ute too!” 30-11-2009 References: |
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