Small Winemakers Tasting Dozens
For more than two decades, a keen interest in our fabulous small wine producers culminated in the first mixed Dozen, compiled and delivered to clients of a regular Retail outlet in Sydney. It was May 1998 and the Small Winemaker's Tasting Dozens (SWTDs) were hatched.
A few years later, after a consultation with management, I decided to resign and take the fledgling Dozens with me. It was time to move on. I assumed there would be people out there with a similar itch in their wine glasses as me.
It has been an enjoyable and rewarding odyssey for everyone involved. Most importantly, many wine enthusiasts, some more serious than others, some quite serious, have stayed with the offerings. SWTDs is a survivor.
Their make-ups vary by way of two formats, with five white wines and seven red wines in the warmer months of November and February and four white wines and eight red wines for the cooler months of May and August.
Cost per Dozen is $340.00. Plus $20.00 delivery per Dozen outside the Sydney Metro Area.
You can pay by Credit Card and there is no service charge.
The wines are packed and delivered by me in Sydney Metro. The $20 delivery charge outside the Sydney Metro is not the true cost, however it is based on a scheme I am currently working on, so the more modest delivery charge is guaranteed. $20 is a good deal. (Currently, I send Dozens to Northern NSW and up to Brisbane. With Australia Post the cost per Dozen is $35+).
Originally the 'building' of the Dozens was a focus on our small producers. Twenty years later that focus has broadened to anywhere, where interesting wines are made. There are no sponsors and therefore no typical pressures to deal with. Wisdom and wine knowledge are completely embraced, again from anywhere, into the bargain, and egos without direction, avoided. The guide is always – the wines must be interesting.
The wine buying decision is a bit of an adventure, and after due consideration, the purchase decision is one of the best moments. Hopefully drinking the wine is it's equal.
A historical anecdote from Phil, who has been receiving the Dozens for 20+ years. A very keen wine man, he is a constant and very selective purchaser of Wines of the World. On occasions, I have placed a SWTD on top of rare boxes of wines also delivered to his front door, on the day. I was most curious about this. I wondered where his interest lay in the SWTDs? He buys anything he wants, and as I said, very well, but when he explained it to me, it brought a smile, and I thought, there's that adventure. It went something like: “Mark, you know what I buy, we both know what they're about, but with the SWTDs, I never know what's in them, and that's what I look forward to.” Bingo.
Regretfully there are no variations available to the offer as it has been described in the second point above. Each Dozen is built on paper and when a final mix is decided upon, the wine is then ordered, packed and delivered to meet numbers. There is no stock on hand as in a traditional Liquor Store. I apologise for this hard learnt decision.
I should mention some people get every second Dozen, as this fits in better with their wine buying.
From January 1973, I worked for 30 years in traditional Independent Retail Liquor Stores, in Sydney, and wine got to me early. My first employer(s) were a couple of Henrys. One, an ex-pastry cook from Cowra in Central Western NSW who went by the chosen name of Trevor (Bryant). And the other, and principal in the partnership, he who answered to Harry (Whiting). Harry's father, Pop was an early work mate as was his brother Ron. All the Whitings were known to my father as they all shared the 1930s in Forbes, NSW. The Business was always referred to as “Harry's.” Harry was a terrific bloke, a naturally charming and very stylish individual, a WW2 Spitfire pilot, and ever the country boy at heart. In the late 1960s, with his partners (Trevor and Pop), he built a Drive In 'Bottlo' in Sydney's lower north shore. It became an outstanding success.
Celebrity customers were ever present: various media people, actors, Rugby League 'Stars' driving beer trucks, National Cricketers even a cast member of Rowan and Martin's Laugh In, as well as yards of all types of locals, coming in for their tipples. It was a lively place. On Saturdays Harry went to bowls and we all spent the afternoon with Trevor, his scones and his stories, which at times were a little incredible. That is, myself and a tight group of students, mostly of the arguing Legal type, with some strays from other faculties. With a characteristic twinkle in his eye, he would begin: “Mark, I've got a joke for you, but don't tell your mother!” He had good humour and mischief all worked out. There were well over fifty years between us, but it never got in the way of work and a good laugh.
Competition amongst the 'students' was a robust clash of egos, but mostly polite. Being the youngest by a few years, I would encourage them onto their wine experiences. Some played poker and I was invited along. They would peddle their views outrageously and one-upmanship played a productive part. Special bottles in paper bags appeared. I was to discover new tastes and knowledge sooner, lucky, in my formative years at Harry's.
My first Work Christmas Party had me sitting opposite Harry at what used to be the Endeavour Restaurant at The Spit. I just happened to focus on Harry as he swallowed the traditional 'taste' the wine waiter had given him, and heard him say, while smiling: “that's a good wine.” It was probably a Coonawarra wine, more than likely a Mildara or Wynns Cabernet Sauvignon. 'That's a good wine.' I wanted to know the contents of a 'good wine.'
Harry and Co sold out in 1975, just as Discounting in Retail Liquor was starting. He had a wealthy buyer and plenty of bowls to play. He told me he didn't want anything to do with Discounting, he thought “it had whiskers on it.” Those three years were an absolute joy and nothing work wise has matched it since. Nothing really could I guess, and I am forever grateful to Harry and Trevor, a couple of wonderful old Henrys.
Robin Bradley's book 'The Small Vineyards of Australia' released in 1982 was a revelation. Many of the winemakers in that book would be regarded as heroes today. Simply, like many others, I am interested in the winemaking going on in sheds anywhere.
In 1998, just before the initial SWTD in May, I worked the first of something like eight vintages for Murray Smith in Orange in NSW's Central West. One night I asked him when do you know you're tasting a 'good wine?' He was loading Chardonnay bunches into the press, on a chair, and I didn't think he heard me. Actually he was avoiding being stung by bees, also caught with the harvested grapes. The 'buggers.' Eventually, after an extended pause he looked at me in his cross eyed way and just said: “You know!” So simple. Harry's message, in time, finally got across. Far too late at night for him. More 'whiskers' I reckon.
Each Dozen is a construction, there's no better description. The reliable starting point is with the two 'Noble' white varieties: Riesling and Chardonnay. The rest seems to follow. With experience gained and contacts made, ideas are soon bouncing around. Once the energy kicks in you're often into unexpected territory, which is great fun. Always stimulating, and dare I say, communally creative.
I am fascinated by wines in all their complexity and variety. I am always exploring and learning as I go. I not only sample wines, I talk to every one I can in the industry. Classically this includes the growers and makers, but it also includes the distributors and retailers. And most importantly, it includes you, my fellow traveller. To that end, I try to deliver my wines personally and stop for a chat when that suits us both.
The future, thank goodness, will include more road trips, a pleasure I look forward to. And when numbers of participants in the Dozens grow, so will the generosity of what and how, many winemakers will release to the Dozens. This has been what happened in the past.
Finally, for the Dozens I am generally not attracted to the so called 'Super Premium' wines (a term I first heard in the 1980s) and nowadays Icon Wines, as I figure they market themselves, uniquely. Some of them are why we drink wine. In contrast I do look for wines off the map. As long as they're interesting. I then wait nervously for the response. That's about it except for a democratic agreement not to include wines above 14.5% alcohol. It's about more elegant and balanced wines that age nicely.
Those who start to get the Dozens, have generally stuck. Many have been getting them from the beginning. Broadly based and inclusive wine selection is a big reason why I believe they 'work,' and is the first part of the CLAIM.
I've made this approach personal and on purpose, and a little against some advice. Rather than paying a professional marketer to massage the message, I think the SWTDs should underwrite their own integrity, be their own ambassador. They've kept a number of wine enthusiasts interested for a a long time. And this personal approach is the other reason, I believe, the CLAIM to it working is justified.
That's it. I still have a tank full of curiosity. What's in your glass?
So, please give me a ring or contact me through the website and let's see if we have something in common to work with.
All prices on this web site are in $AUD
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