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PAUL DROGEMULLER - PARACOMBE WINES - ADELAIDE HILLS

"They worked bloody hard for what is Paracombe Wines today," was the comment made by Louise of Glebe Liquor Mart, Sydney, and friend of the Drogemullers. This was only a week after I saw Paul and Kathy on their own spectacular turf in the Adelaide Hills. I knew they worked hard doing all sorts of things just as others have done in similar situations. Growing spuds, growing anything really, and driving a small goods truck happened to be part of their journey. I knew a fair bit of the Paracombe story, but Louise's words and how she said them suddenly grabbed the moment. Now, in my mind, there is a more complete perspective of Paracombe Wines and a finer understanding of the value of their effort along the way.

"We bought this burnt out little farm in 1983. Apart from doing other things, we were encouraged to grow some grapes and that was the beginning of it all," were Paul's modest words, also grabbing the moment in his own, almost understated way.

Today, there are a little over thirty acres of vines (13.3 ha) at 425 metres, as well a fully operational winery that can process 250 tonnes of fruit. Paul makes a substantial amount of contract wine.

I reckon it must have been in the mid nineties when I had a memorable first introduction to Paracombe wines. How it occurred was literally as a result of a chance meeting between the Irelands (previously of Odd bins, Sydney fame) and friends of the Drogemullers at a Cape York campsite. Out came one of Paul's wines and impressed enough, Bill ( Ireland) as is his form, eventually made his way to Paracombe. The next part in the play was with Bill accompanying both Paul and Kathy to various outlets in Sydney, us being one of them.

It was a tag-team affair with Paul and Kathy taking turns to show their wines as they alternated between the duties of child care in the vehicle outside. Bill remained inside. Bill is a great character, and for those who know him, his enthusiasm can be infectious, but for smaller ones perhaps overwhelming. The visit was pure entertainment, and the wines did their own talking.

The first wine in the Dozens was the 1995 Shiraz Cabernet in August 1998. Shortly afterwards I made my first visit to Paracombe, and from that point I started to get an understanding of what Paul and Kathy have done.

It was then that he produced a smallish book that he referred to as his winemaking manual or some such. In it he had recorded the manner in which he treated the various varieties during his grape growing and winemaking, including what he saw as mistakes. Yes, Paul is self taught in the art of winemaking, and as mentioned before, decisions can be made with less agonizing felt by those who went the institutional route. In many ways it is a freer flight.

They both get there in the end, but when it's your fruit that you cared for and it is your livelihood, it's an intense learning. Like all good winemakers there is a place for the empty bottles of other makers, serious wines of course. They are commonly found on top of cupboards near kitchens. The learning goes on.

As mentioned earlier Paul does a lot of contract winemaking. Wines are made from fruit grown in Coonawarra, Mclaren Vale, Adelaide Plains, Barossa, allover. Unlike a lot of other makers, Paul is happy to do it, even if to see how other areas grow their grapes and what sort of wine can be made. I asked him again about his winemaking manual recently, and he'd forgotten about it. It was probably a historical document even back in 1998, something he produced to make a point. It has been instinctive winemaking for a long time at Paracombe.

One of the more amazing things Paul and Kathy have done, I think, is to be able to produce their rare Somerville Shiraz.

From their notes: "This wine was named after James 'Jas' Somerville who was one of the early pioneers to settle in Paracombe in the late 1800's. A man of vision and fortitude, he was the first to plant vines in the district in 1903.

As time passed several vineyards were established then subsequently cleared to make way for other ventures. However one small parcel of 500 Shiraz from the original Somerville still remained. Recognizing their significance Paul and Kathy successfully transplanted these old vines to their own vineyard in 1997.

All done in an old ute, and what a fantastic thing to do. Seemed like a good idea, no second thoughts just make it happen. One hundred and three year old vines producing grapes at Paracombe: Brilliant!

The Paracombe label is a grape on a piece of granite. "The single grape portrays the highest level of quality and care put into our vineyard and management.

The Paracombe vineyard is nestled on a plateau, 425 metres above sea level, in some of South Australia's most picturesque countryside, the Adelaide Hills. The surrounding terrain is quite hilly with some parts being very steep. Yet the Paracombe vineyard rests on this exclusive parcel of a relatively flat plateau.

The piece of granite on which the grape sits has been shaped to represent the same shape of the Paracombe plateau taken from a contour map. Granite was chosen as the colour and feel of granite are cool, this signifies Paracombe's cool climate which is ideal for producing elegant and stylish wines.

We need an image design that makes a positive impact and stands out from the crowd whether on a restaurant table or in a retail store in Adelaide, Sydney or New York."

As one of our public servants, an Adelaide Hills resident, always says at the conclusion of an interview: "its always a pleasure," these words do take on real meaning when you see the Drogemullers.