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BEN JEANNERET - JEANNERET WINES - CLARE VALLEY

The November 2004 Jeanneret Newsletter, opens with the modest salutation of "Happy Birthday to Us." The recent October long weekend marked ten years since the Cellar Door opened for business. As it turned out the 2nd of October was the day I visited Ben and Carissa Jeanneret with an old college friend, who sells a bit of wine in Adelaide. There was no fanfare, no obvious sign at all that celebrated such a notable achievement. The only impediment in the moment was our late arrival, and that was entirely my fault.

By the time we arrived they were pressed for time, with appointments looming. However we were warmly greeted and Ben led the way to the Winery for a look at the contents of a few barrels. This seems to be the Jeanneret way of doing things, 'calm and collected.'

In a couple of books that count: The Wine Regions of Australia by John Beeston, John says: "In addition to the organic approach to viticulture, wine making standards are high." A similar high rating is recorded in the latest Wine Companion by James Halliday. As their Newsletter notes:'Jeanneret Wines is now listed as a five star winery,' which when put into words means:"Outstanding Winery regularly producing exemplary wines."

The first time I heard of the Jeanneret odyssey was from Robert Crabtree sometime in the early 1990s. Ben's parents, Pat and Denis purchased their Clare Valley property in 1987, at which point Denis learnt'the art of winemaking from friend Robert Crabtree.'

In Bens own words: "Regarding my background - it's nothing to rave about. I drank a lot of cheap wine at Flinders University and Graduated with a Bachelor of Arts and majored in English literature. Not much to do with wine I'm afraid. I have enrolled in winemaking at Adelaide University several times but have yet to attend. I did a brief stint at a winery in Clare where I learnt cellar procedure and basic winemaking. From there I read a lot about winemaking and developed a love for it - particularly the finished product." Not very glamorous, but accurate.

My philosophy about wines is simple - we attempt to source excellent fruit from old, predominantly dry land vineyards from almost every sub-region within the Clare Valley. I believe our wines should reflect the quality and individual character of these vineyards so our wines from each area are matured in individual lots - regardless of quantity. The wines are fined separately (where necessary) and not blended until just prior to bottling. I concentrate on fruit driven wines so new oak does not play a big part in my winemaking.

In 1995 Ben returned to Clare and commenced his winemaking career with his father, Denis, in a purpose built winery 'in a shed behind the house.'

From the 1995 vintage, a crush of 20 tonnes increased to over 200 tonnes in 2004. Along the way more tanks, barrels and sheds were introduced to the operation. The 1996 Riesling won the Trophy for the Best Riesling at the Boutique Wine Awards. It is one of those awards you read about and make a mental note of at the time.

Ben's partner Carissa joined the business in 1999 in a marketing/admin capacity. They were married at the Winery in 2001.

Vintage 2002 had the whole country watching and waiting for the staggered release of wines from all regions of Australia. Barossa reds, especially Shiraz were keenly sought after both on and off shore. So too, for those who enjoy them were the stunning Riesling wines from Clare. It was touted as the best season for twenty years. It was good timing for the national Riesling revival, and the Jeanneret wine was no exception to the brilliant press at the time.

In 2003 Jeanneret red wines were 'doing the business,' as seen in Philip White's Top 100 in The Advertiser 19/11/2003. The Cabernets 2001 and Grenache/Shiraz 2002 clocked in with 93 & 92/100 respectively. And last week in this year's Top 100, it was back to the Riesling with the 2004 at 93/100.

Also in 2003, Ben and Carissa visited Toronto to represent Jeanneret at the Young Winemakers Tasting. One of only three labels selected to participate.

Over time you read and take note of many things regarding Jeanneret, and you begin to understand and get into perspective their success story. The consistent high quality of their wines, along with others, underwrites the significance of these small, independent winemakers to the fabric of our wine industry. Again, it sinks in. Ben would describe this comment as:"good propaganda!"

During the hasty look at some wines in barrel, Ben offered a tip for the future. It was in reference to their small Semillon vineyard, that is organically grown and certified'A'. "We get terrific fruit off those vines." Maybe, hopefully, well see a straight Semillon one day.

Its a great thing when something good is started, and is then carried on by the next generation. I immediately think of Nick Paterson at Chateau Pato. Twelve years into the project Denis passed away. The following year 2000, Jeanneret released their first"super premium" red, the 1998 Denis Shiraz. The label is a historical statement and link to a notable beginning, as well, it captures the spirit lingering in those numerous Jeanneret sheds.