February 2022 Dozen
60% Grenache, 29% Mourvedre and 11% Shiraz. Small batches of grapes are gently crushed and then transferred to open fermenters. Foot treading is undertaken two thirds of the way through fermentation, the wine is basket pressed and then aged in French oak for up to 12 months. A classic, juicy, generous GMS blend. Red fruits are the forerunner at this stage with fresh raspberries and cherry liqueur on the nose, pomegranate and rhubarb on the palate. Interesting spicy and herbal notes linger in the background adding interest. The palate is round and generous but with a taught line of acid that adds crunch and freshness and gently accentuates the fine pithy tannins. Beautifully balanced, youthful and lithely. An uncomplicated GMS packed with fruit and sure to please.
“Five to eight years +.”
“Yields were down significantly in 2020, the lowest in memory, however, quality is exceptional. Some of the best wines seen for years. Great colour, fruit characters, flavours and length. Innocent Weed is far from innocent. Favouring the same sandy soils in which our Grenache thrives, its seeds are covered in very sharp thorns which stick to passers-by and spread throughout the vineyard. Without the use of pesticides, these plants, and others that continually grow add organic material to the earth, increasing the micro flora to foster a healthier, 'alive' soil. This in turn means better grapes, more reflective of the terroir.”
Available to Retail.
Phone: 08 8329 4888
Fax: 08 8323 9862
Open: Daily 10 to 5.
Address: Osborn Road, McLaren Vale, S.A., 5171.
Web: www.darenberg.com.au
“The fruit for this wine was pressed, cold settled and fermented with an aromatic style of yeast. It was then kept on its yeast lees for five months to allow yeast characters to complement the fresh fruit flavours. The wine has a nose of zesty lemon and lifted grassy notes. It has a palate that offers structure and crisp fruit aromatics.”
“Drink to enjoy in the first few years of release.”
“Our High Ground range is sourced from neighbouring vineyards. The fruit is selected for its ability to make an approachable fruit driven style wine.” The reference books seem to agree that the higher the altitude this variety is planted, the better the resultant wine. I always thought New Zealand impressed with Pinot Gris / Grigio. The same books regularly say the model location is Alsace. I thought the Pinot Gris from Delatite in the last Dozen was a wonderful example from this 'aromatic producer' and is why together with its good value, I went for it here.
Available to Retail.
Phone: 03 5775 2922
Open: Daily 11 to 5.
Address: 26 High Street Mansfield, Victoria, 3722.
Web: www.delatitewinery.com.au
All fruit parcels spent a few days soaking on skins before commencing natural fermentation with strategic plunging and pump overs for balanced tannin extraction. The individual batches were fermented around 22°– 25°C, pressed and then transferred into new and used French oak barrels for maturation (42% new oak). After 14 months the wine was blended, fined and bottled. The nose is typically aromatic, showing mulberry, red currants and chocolate notes. The palate shows elegant varietal Cabernet fruit in the cassis and mulberry spectrum supported by fine chocolaty tannins. Cabernet provides great fragrance, complexity and structure all in the one package.”
“A wine that can be consumed as a young fruit driven wine or cellared with confidence over the medium term.”
“2018 was a milder and later vintage than the previous 10 vintages; a year of elegant, slightly lighter bodied wines ripe in flavour, vibrant and beautifully perfumed. Higher than average yields combined with a cooler season to achieve a long ripening period and wonderfully balanced acid retention. Although considered an atypical season for the region, it produced some outstanding wines of great aromatic prowess and femininity.”
Available to Retail.
Phone: 08 9756 8577
Open: Daily 10.00 to 5.00.
Address: Cnr Caves Road and Chain Ave, Dunsborough, W.A., 6281.
Web: www.flametreewines.com.au
Colour is vibrant scarlet with crimson hue. A lifted nose of concentrated red fruits with notes of dried herbs, charcuterie and potpourri. The palate is viscous red fruit flavours tightly wound by the spicy tannins. It persists gently in the mouth.
“This wine is great for drinking with food, particularly poultry dishes like roast duck and Asian style meats. Try it with barbequed figs wrapped in prosciutto.”
“Hentyfarm was lucky to be allocated some of this precious fruit in 2017. This is the first Pinot Meunier we have made working with Ray Nadeson at Lethbridge. He has worked beautifully with this fruit, making a delicious wine with texture and style. Pinot Meunier is most often found in many New World sparkling wines and is one of the varieties allowed in Champagne. Alastair Taylor has been growing Pinot Meunier in Henty for sparkling wine production for a long time and in 2015 we jumped at the opportunity to make a red table wine from Pinot Meunier fruit. Jono of Hentyfarm has been aware for a long time, Best's of Great Western has been making this style of wine since the 1960s.” And this brings back the memory of being at a restaurant, with others, listening to Viv Thomson (of Best's) talking about Pinot Meunier. He said he always has a bottle in the fridge and his ongoing fascination with the variety can add to the 'Cellaring' above. Even though it is probably best drunk in the 'short term,' it can develop over decades. He wasn't sure why. That was 20+ years ago.
Available to Retail.
Phone: 0423 029 200 (Jono)
No Cellar Door
Web: www.hentyfarm.com.au
Malbec was picked from our original Wilyabrup site on 24th March and on our Karridale site on 26th March. A parcel of Tempranillo (10.5% of the blend) was picked from the Karridale site on 9th March. One batch was made with whole bunch ferment or carbonic maceration, for spice and berry brightness. The other batch was open fermented and hand plunged for nine days before pressing and brief stint in barrel. The wine is vivid purple/red. Fragrant Morello cherries, raspberries, damsons and ripe mulberries, with suggestions of dark chocolate, coffee and vanilla. On the palate, bold flavours of chocolate orange, blackberry and sarsaparilla are tempered with pleasantly bitter cherry notes and tart raspberry acidity.
“Drink by 2028.”
“A challenging vintage due to a lot of rain. However the viticulture team was able to deal very effectively with each problem, through meticulous canopy management and judicious use of organically approved sprays, meaning quality remained strong.” I don't remember seeing a Juniper Malbec before in the Bacchus Portfolio. Perhaps I always missed it, which is a surprise to me as it is something I would jump on and did so when I saw it. It was later explained to me that Juniper has re-jigged their whole production range and packaging.
Available to Retail.
Phone: 08 9755 9000
Open: Daily 10 to 5.
Address: 98 Tom Cullity Drive, Cowaramup W.A., 6284.
Web: www.juniperestate.com.au
Grown on a sheer south facing slope, our Gruner takes its time to ripen, showing quite reserved fruit flavour until seemingly hours before harvest. In the glass, the wine has a brilliant clarity and aromatics of grapefruit citrus, white pepper, leafy herbs and a hint of juniper, all bursting out. The palate is dry and spicy with a textural, lingering finish of fresh root vegetables, green pear and underpinned with a gentle, refreshing acidity.
There isn't any recommendation in the Notes specifically, but the intention to 'preserve freshness' (see below), I would think approach it like Riesling. Enjoy young, but there is plenty of evidence it can live long term. Riesling!
In the Vineyard and Winemaking section of the Notes: “Longview is one of the first vineyards in Australia to plant Gruner Veltliner and is planted to three different Austrian clones (HHW2, HHW3 and Iby) – all on own roots. With the vines now 11 years old, we are noticing fantastic fruit quality through the vineyard with consistent bunches and controlled vigour. The Gruner was hand harvested in late February based on flavour and acid retention, then crushed and destemmed and must chilled to 3°C before gentle pressing. Only free run juice was used and the ferment was kept at sub 10°C, with some lees returned to accentuate the mid palate richness of the variety. It was then fermented to dryness and bottled immediately to preserve freshness.”
Available to Retail.
Phone: 08 8388 9694
Open
Address: Pound Road, Macclesfield, S.A., 5153.
Web: www.longviewvineyard.com.au
100% Shiraz. Rich purple and red in colour. The bouquet is abundant with plum, blackberry and red cherries, coupled with hints of mocha and vanillin. This Shiraz delivers all the hallmarks that make the combination of this variety and the McLaren Vale region so famous. The palate has an abundance of generous flavours, a rich mouthful with plum, vanilla and complex savoury spices. The mouth filling flavours are well balanced, full bodied with a soft finish.
“This wine is made to enjoy upon release; however it is expected that it will continue to mature for five to seven years.”
“The grape quality for the 2018 harvest was formed by having a good wet season in 2017, but a dry season ensuing, which prevents excessive vigour or disease problems. Favourable summer ripening weather with daytime temperatures in the high twenties, with cool nights, led to fruit in great condition at picking. This allowed winemaking the freedom to give unrushed care for the fermentation period. (12 – 15 months in old oak, with some new French and American barrels).
Available to Retail.
Phone: 08 8323 8200
Open: Daily 10.00 to 5.00
Address: 19 Olivers Road, McLaren Vale, S.A., 5171
Web: www.maxwellwines.com.au
Pressed to a mix of Burgundian puncheons and barriques, of which 40% were new in 2021. We selected these particular barrels to add structure to our Chardonnay and also light, smoky toasted oak notes. Fermented in barrel with naturally occurring yeast, without any additions or temperature control. Stirring weekly post ferment to gain texture for a period of two months, and bi weekly or monthly depending on the palate evolution. 2021 was a hard year in Margaret River with high summer rainfall leading to increased disease pressure and lower fruit concentration. On the upside, we had higher acid and pristine flavours. We managed to pick the fruit clean from disease and at a good level of ripeness.
“Considering the year, we think this wine is a good medium term proposition, drink over the next five years.”
“This Chardonnay is sourced from two sites, Churchview Estate and Celestial Bay, which are both in the Wilyabrup sub region. Harvested when we feel that the fruit and acid are in balance, usually around 11.6 – 12.5 Baume, but really dependant on flavour. Roughly 80% Gin Gin which is a clone widely known in Margaret River to give palate weight, fruit and texture, and 20% Clone 95 which brings aromatics and mineral acidity.” Robert from Vinsight gave me a sample of this Chardonnay in December and it was the 'aromatics and minerality' mostly inaccessible in previous generations of Chardonnay that struck the chord for me. And with only a few hundred cases made, I grabbed it.
Available to Retail.
Phone 0420 307 665
No Cellar Door.
Address: 4/37Village Green, Margaret River, W.A., 6285.
Web: www.lsmerchants.com.au
The cool climate of the Canberra Region really suits Arneis and especially the warm days and cool nights of the ripening period – allowing good accumulation of sugars, while maintaining balanced acid levels. The result with Arneis is a rich spectrum of pears and walnuts on the nose and palate and the notable good palate weight. It is lively and so more-ish!
“The 2019 Arneis follows the pedigree of the earlier vintages and is developing very well. That is one benefit of Arneis – it is lovely early in its life and will also benefit from ageing in the bottle, developing richer flavours and palate weight.”
“Arneis is a rare variety originating in the Piedmont Region of North West Italy. It was almost lost to the viticulture sector as local producers were finding it hard to produce a crop due to powdery mildew infections – hence the name “Little Rascal.” Modern viticultural techniques have made a difference, and the variety is gaining popularity in its homeland as well as across the world. Pankhurst Wines became interested in Arneis when looking for an alternative for Sauvignon Blanc in their vineyard. 'We wanted something fresh and lively, yet able to develop well with age and something different that would interest our wine lovers,' Allan Pankhurst said. The first vintage of our Arneis was in 2017 and won Gold at the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show. A great start and each vintage since has confirmed the great decision to change over to this exciting new variety. Interest in the Pankhurst Arneis continues to increase.”
Limited Retail or Cellar Door.
Phone: 02 6230 2592
Open: Weekends and Public Holidays. 10 to 4.
Address: Old Woodgrove Road, Woodgrove, Hall, NSW, 2618.
Web: www.pankhurstwines.com.au
Merlot 38%, Cabernet Sauvignon 34%, Cabernet Franc 15%, Malbec 9% and Petit Verdot 4%. Clear, bright, deep ruby red with a slight purple hue. Fresh mix of floral and red and blue fruit notes with spice and a herbal lift. Displaying dark cherry, plum and black olive flavours with a herbal lift. Grainy, elegant tannins flow smoothly to the finish.
“The quality of the 2019 vintage will ensure this wine will cellar for eight to ten years from the release date (01/02/21).
In a recent Young and Rashleigh Portfolio I saw a 'cracking' write up of this Bordeaux Blend, and a blend is always welcome, of course. This is a first time Rosily wine, and as the Portfolio goes on: “The first vines were propagated at Rosily in 1994 from cuttings from nearby Moss Wood vineyard. Rosily Vineyard is situated on Yelverton Road in the Wilyabrup sub region of Margaret River. The total vineyard size is 12.28 hectares. Only fruit from our vineyard is used in the production of our wines. The wines are all made at the winery constructed on the property in the year 2000.
Available to Retail
Phone: 08 9755 6336
Open: Daily December and January 11.00 to 5.00
Address: 871 Yelverton Road, Willyabrup W.A., 6284.
Web: www.rosily.com.au
90% Pinot Noir and 10% Shiraz. The colour is dark cherry red and showing bright aromas of black cherry and strawberry with sweet spicy notes and earthiness on the nose. The palate is black cherries, blackberries and earthiness supported by soft tannins and a fresh acid backbone providing structure and length.
“Up to five years.”
“Dry conditions throughout winter and spring leading up to the 2021 vintage has allowed for even fruit set. Unusually high rainfall leading to harvest resulted in high disease pressure. To ensure grapes reach optimal ripeness, excess bunches were dropped. As a result, the fruit was concentrated with flavours and tannins with the end wine bright and flavoursome.” This wine came by way of conversation and recommendation with Nicholas Gibson who gets the Dozens. He and his extended and active group see a lot of wines, and his description of this was: “bloody good booze,” which to me translates to me as 'good value.'
Available to retail.
Phone: 08 9776 1584
Open: Friday to Monday & P/Hol. 10.00 to 4.00pm
Address: 2348 Channybearup Road, Pemberton, W.A., 6260.
Web: silkwoodestate.com.au
The 2021 vintage parcels were sourced from selected blocks on the Zander and Mason family vineyards, with each vineyard possessing the perfect conditions for premium Riesling grapes: cooler climate, rocky granite soils and 400+ metre altitude. (More on winemaking below). The colour of the finished wine is pale straw with green hues. The nose is beautifully perfumed with classic notes of honeyed blossom, citrus curd and fresh lime. The palate showcases the purity of Riesling – powerful yet elegant with subtle tones of citrus and stone fruit.
“A Riesling with beautiful purity and prettiness in youth, promises to be a wonderful wine to age for 10+ years.”
“Harvest occurred on the 23rd of February and the 4th March respectively (on the sites mentioned above), the time in between harvesting each parcel shows the incredible diversity within Eden Valley, and the impact of subregions and micro climates on picking decisions and ultimately wine style. The grapes were processed immediately to avoid extended skin contact . As is the Vickery way, Keeda Zilm also strategically incorporated pressings material in the final blend to add flavour and texture to the wine. The pressings cut is taken a lot earlier than usual to retain flavour without extracting bitter phenolics. The blend was fermented at cool temperatures in stainless steel to maintain freshness.” It seemed a good time include a 'Vickery reminder' after almost two since the last one. And after reading a few outstanding reviews.
Available to Retail.
Phone: 08 8362 8622
Web: www.vickerywines.com.au