SWTD November 2021
The colour is pale gold. The nose delivers apple, green strawberries, blossom, pineapple, pear and elderflower. And the palate is medium bodied, with good acidity and a light spritziness, giving flavours of red apple, nectarine and honeysuckle.
“Enjoyable when young but will reward careful cellaring.” No time is included in the Notes, but the 'off dry' rating of this wine would suggest five, even plus years.
While delivering the last Dozen, the subject of Chenin Blanc somehow came up, and in particular, the previously included Millton, also from New Zealand. Our mutual leanings toward this, we think, fantastic variety, it was agreed weren't sufficiently represented. I literally came across this wine a week later. Not as dry as the other, but there is plenty to like, and some similarity. There are a couple more wines including those of Millton who move on from known availability. I shall investigate. Cheers Janice. In the Cutting's Portfolio: “Simon's (Waghorn) personal style defines Astrolabe wine – focused, balanced and elegant. Simon crafts a range of beautiful wines that express the purity of fruit flavours afforded by the climate and soils of the Marlborough region.”
Available to Retail.
Web: www.astrolabewines.co.nz
Sydney Distributor: Cuttings Wine Merchants
Ph: 02 9967 5900.
60% Monastrell, 30% Tempranillo and 10% Marselan grown on dry vineyards 18 to 20 years old, over a great diversity of soils ranging from very clayey with high content of active limestone to sandy loam. The grapes were vinified separately. The Monastrell had a post fermentation maceration with short pump overs (15 mins. in the morning and 15 mins. in the afternoon) for 20 days. The wine then spent 10 months in second use French oak and bottled. Very vivid red colour with slight orange tones. Great aromatic complexity. Spicy aromas of aromatic herbs, cinnamon, pepper stand out. Also aromas of berries and ripe fruit, plum and balsamic. In the mouth it is very round, the smooth and elegant tannin has a perfect balance with the concentration and acidity of the wine. Long after taste. Very mineral wine that represents the soil and climate of its origin, (Fontanars dels Alforins).
“Very good evolution in the bottle. Over the years, ripe figs and compote (stewed) fruit begin to emerge. The wine is rounded off and gains in elegance and finesse. Five to eight years.”
This is a very interesting and happy second choice as the original, again, was out of stock. I was going through the Sparkling wine options with Jo at Bacchus, and with that done and with reds now on my mind I asked her about Bodegas Enguera and she purred like 'Catwoman.' Great value right through the range was the translation.
Available to Retail.
Web: www.bodegasenguera.com (Spanish Language)
Sydney Distributor: Bacchus Wine Merchant.
Phone: 1300 309 773
The fruit for our Pinot Gris is hand picked in the cool of the day and then whole bunch pressed. The juice is cold settled, racked and then allowed to undergo a wild fermentation by the natural yeast of our vineyard. A portion of the juice was fermented in larger oak vessels to enhance further complexity. The resulting wines were finally blended, filtered and bottled without the use of any fining agents or artificial additives resulting in a wine that is pure and only expresses the flavour of the fruit. This ripe Pinot Gris has the typical fruit characters of ripe pears that are common from Delatite's fruit, and also, with a slight edge of grassiness and citrus in the background and some floral notes. The palate is full and round with a hint of residual sweetness and a long finish.
“Best enjoyed young, on release and in the first three years.” Fantastic now. (My words).
“In the last 10 years Delatite has made wine as naturally as possible. We use 100% wild yeast in all Estate wines and have no enzymes or fining agents, and minimal sulphur. (Fining agents are protein based compounds used to reduce the level of phenolics in the wine. Not adding them makes our wines vegan friendly). This allows the wines to fully show the vineyards characteristics. The grapes are grown following biodynamic principles which doesn't allow the use of artificial inputs, encouraging greater vineyard biodiversity.”
Available to Retail.
Phone: 03 5775 2922
Open: Daily 11 to 5.
Address: 26 High Street Mansfield, Victoria, 3722.
Web: www.delatitewinery.com.au
Grapes are tasted daily and picked at exactly the right moment when flavour and tannin are in balance. The fruit is destemmed but not crushed to maximise the presence of whole berries. 20% of free run juice is run off, giving the wine further concentration and intensity. We chase freshness and bright fruit never allowing our Durif to become overripe. Grapes are split into multiple ferments, cold soaked for 48 hours before inoculation with separate strains of cultured yeast. Ferments are kept cool and gently hand plunged once daily to limit extraction of harsh obtrusive tannin. Extended maceration is undertaken before basket pressing to a combination of new (20%) and seasoned French Oak Puncheons and Barriques. 18 months on full lees to build texture. The resultant wine is structured, jet black in colour with a remarkable depth of flavour.
“Time is your friend; this wine will continue to improve and reward with cellaring of 15+ years.”
“Super late ripening of its painfully tight bunches makes it a difficult variety to grow. Planted on our home vineyard in Eldorado, our vines were taken as cuttings of the original Rutherglen clone kindly provided by Stanton and Killeen. Our site is a cooler site for Durif, and this allows us to make a more restrained rendition of this usually powerhouse variety. To complement the finesse of the grapes grown on our home vineyard, we also source a couple of tonnes of high quality Durif from a very well run, established vineyard in Rutherglen. This fruit works perfectly in tandem with ours by giving the wine another level of complexity and flesh.”
Available to Retail.
Phone: 03 5725 1698
No Cellar Door.
Web: www.nomadsgarden.com.au
Address: 1317 Eldorado Road, Eldorado, Vic., 3678.
Web: www.eldoradoroad.com.au
“This Riesling was made in the 'dry' style with a long, cool ferment allowing for the natural aromatics to be maintained. This wine has nicely balanced acid and lively citrus tones.”
“This wine is delicious now and will continue to gain complexity with age.” Previous form suggests up to 10 years.
I was always heading in this direction after the Sparkling version being in the last Dozen. Two styles from the same variety and vineyard. And the same vintage, with both Sparkling and table wine versions released together. Too interesting! Jacki, also had this Riesling on her list of recommendations in the lead up to this Dozen. From the Portfolio overview (and with slight repetition of the back label), “Four Winds Vineyard is a micro-winery in Murrumbateman in the Canberra District. With a winemaking philosophy of minimal intervention, almost everything in the vineyard is done by hand; from shoot-thinning and leaf-plucking to pruning and picking. In the vineyard, their Riesling is characterised crisp citrus and racy acidity.”
Available to Retail.
Phone: 0432 060 903
Open: Weekends 10.00 to 5.00.
Address: 9 Patemans Lane,Murrumbateman, NSW, 2582.
Web: www.fourwindsvineyard.com.au
This wine is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. High natural acidity is a feature of Tasmanian sparkling wine and we harvest both the Pinot and Chardonnay when optimal acidity and flavour is reached. The fruit is then whole bunch pressed and fermented with a neutral yeast. A portion of the wine is transferred to barrel prior to completion of primary fermentation. All the wine underwent malolactic fermentation to soften the acidity and increase complexity. The wine was then tiraged to undergo traditional bottle fermentation, before spending time on lees for a period of 24 months prior to disgorging. This sparkling is light straw yellow in colour. The nose shows lifted strawberry and Turkish delight aromas as a result of the high percentage of Pinot Noir, whilst the Chardonnay adds beautiful citrus notes and minerality. There is weight and flavour thanks to use of barrels and the wine has a lovely velvety texture.
“Disgorged for immediate drinking but will delight over the next few years.”
A sparkling wine is a suitable style for this time of year, undoubtedly. And there is a lot to choose from. Holm Oak was included here out of the 'lot,' that included a number of imported wines, all looking interesting. (A six pack would've been easy). It did so after a long conversation with Jo from Bacchus Wines, from where there were a number of options (including Imports), mainly on the basis of Tasmania 'doing the business' in the local Sparkling Wine scene.
Available to Retail.
Phone: 03 6394 7577
Fax: 03 6394 7350
Open: Daily 11 to 5.
Address: 11 West Bay Road, Rowella, Tasmania, 7270.
Web: www.holmoakvineyards.com.au
72% Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Shiraz, The Musician is made as a light and elegant dry red. Fermentation was both in stainless steel tanks and oak barrels then aged for a further six months. It was then blended and bottled as a young red to retain freshness. The colour is vibrant deep ruby red with a crimson hue. Fresh mint, eucalyptus and spice make up the lifted nose. The palate is soft and well balanced, with blackberries and cassis flavours and with supple tannins. A perfect pairing of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.
“The Musician is made to enjoy now or cellar up to five years.”
“2018 Vintage is set to be labelled an amazing vintage, with superb conditions and fruit of outstanding quality being harvested. The yields were moderate, and the slow cool ripening was very even, delivering fruit with fine tannins and strong varietal flavours. Early indications of the 2018 Vintage suggest that grape quality is outstanding. All winemakers in the region are talking positively with comments that the colour is good, balanced tannins and good fruit weight.” From the Majella Notes. It sounds like a pretty good Vintage Report. Makes one feel they should look around to see if there are any 2018 Coonawarra Cabernets out there 'all alone.' This wine has been very successful on the Wine Show circuit.
Available to Retail.
Phone: 08 8736 3055
Open: Daily 10 to 4.30
Address: Lynn Road, Coonawarra, S.A., 5263.
Web: www.majellawines.com.au
Grenache 50%, Shiraz 40% and Mourvedre 10%. After blending in this proportion, the wine was matured for 12 – 15 months in mix of older, seasoned oak barrels. The colour is deep red with bright crimson hues. The nose reveals deep red berry aromas with stewed plum and herbal notes. The palate is abundant with rich plum, gamey tones and white pepper spice, supported by soft tannin and lively acidity.
“Made to enjoy on release, however it is expected that it will continue to mature to five years of age.”
Jacki Osborne suggested this GSM as she continues to explore wines outside her own Portfolio. She has access to two other, quite extensive offerings. A very rich resource. Maxwell's Portfolio overview recommends their 'innovation,' by way of their “pioneering of the mead industry in Australia.” I certainly remember selling a lot of their Ellen Street Shiraz in the 90s. Tremendous value. I suspect though, the secret is “third generation winemaker, Mark Maxwell, and the Estate Vineyards favourably situated on solid limestone, in proximity to the moderating effects of the Gulf of St Vincent, the conditions in the vineyard are ideal for producing small quantities of intensely flavoured fruit.”
Available to Retail.
Phone: 08 8323 8200
Open: Daily 10.00 to 5.00
Address: 19 Olivers Road, McLaren Vale, S.A., 5171.
Web: www.maxwellwines.com.au
McLaren Vale Chardonnay was harvested towards the end of vintage allowing the fruit to fully ripen. Following partial fermentation and fortification, the wine was matured in old oak puncheons for a minimum of 15 years before bottling. The wine is luscious and mouth-filling. Aromas and flavours reminiscent of the Chardonnay grape are combined with concentration and complexity gained from the barrel maturation.
“Drink now.”
I heard about this wine a couple of years ago, when given 'the tip:' “If you're quick, you can order three bottles.” I did so and have shared it only on one occasion, so far. All were intrigued and enjoyed the wine. As I mentioned earlier, I tried to land a particular Chardonnay for this Dozen, but failed due to a delay in Vintage change. The wine is bottled but not released as yet. This, I learned by phone call. As in an 'impulse buy' mode, on that call, I asked if it was possible to use this 'Rare Fortified.' And I think there was surprise on both ends of that phone call, and the answer was: 'yes.' I think Robert didn't expect to see a Fortified wine in a mixed dozen, I'm not sure. I wasn't about to ask any further questions. I knew it easily filled the important consideration for inclusion and that is: it's interesting as well as a delight.
Available to Retail.
Phone: 08 8296 8261
Cellar Door: Monday to Saturday 9.00 to 5.00.
Address: 13 – 23 Clacton Road, Dover Gardens, S.A., 5048.
Web: www.patritti.com.au
100% Shiraz, the 2018 Black Pig has lifted spiced plums and dark fruits, which for us, is typical of cool climate Shiraz from the Orange region. This wine is medium-bodied and has spice which stops short of being full-on pepper. 18 months in barrel has given texture and balance. We use a small amount of new oak in the barrel mix – in 2018 it was 20% new, all French.
Now and over the medium term, five to eight years.
“2018 Season: A warm, dry growing season made for a small crop – we picked under 1T/acre. The fruit was in good condition, albeit small berries on medium-size bunches. The fruit was picked on 13th & 15th March which is early and reflects the warm season. By contrast, this year we picked Shiraz on the 1st April. Vinification: The fruit was destemmed allowing a high percentage of whole berries in the fermentation. Fermentation was in 1200L open fermenters which take about 1T of fruit. These were hand-plunged 3-4 times a day until the peak of fermentation has passed and then once or twice a day. My vintage notes include several midnight plunges which means the fermentation was warm. The wine stayed on skins for 11-15 days depending on the batch. Basket pressed to barrel and kept in barrel for 18 months with two rackings during that time. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.”
“PS We now have a tasting room and boutique apartment located on the Strawhouse vineyard.” A very popular destination now we're out and about!
Please contact Justin - details below, or me.
116 Boree Lane, Lidster, NSW
Ph: +61 (0)402 498 419
Web: strawhousewines.com.au
“Our Mourvedre grapes were hand-picked in mid April. After cooling to around 15°C they were crushed into open fermenters. Nothing was added and fermentation soon started. The ferment was not vigorous and continued to move along slowly. At 4° Baume the wine was basket pressed and a Malolactic culture was added to assist Malolactic Fermentation. The slow ferment had helped the colour and complexity of the wine. On June 1st towards the end of Malolactic fermentation, it became 'stuck,' and so we added yeast 2226 with Go Ferment Protect, to finish the process. (Temperature was kept up to 22°C at this time). The wine was then racked and eventually pumped to a stainless steel tank in the cool room. A small amount of French oak staves were suspended in nylon bags. After time, the wine was racked three more times and bottled unfiltered, and placed in cool storage. The wine has been described as fruit driven with classic Mourvedre flavours of blueberry and raisin, with coffee lingering throughout the palate. Our wine is well rounded and soft with good persistence and nuances of French oak.”
No Cellar Door (Just a few Sheds and a lot of conversation) or contact me.
Contact Michael O'Donohoe
Ph: 0478 288 379
Web: www.tomsdropwines.com.au
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A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet Franc, with the Franc harvested March 28th and the Sauvignon five days later. The colour is rich, vibrant, and cherry red. The nose shows fruit notes of black currants and raspberries backed by tobacco and leaf characters. To the palate where berry characters give a rich, fruity, and generous entry to the palate. These are framed by cedary French oak characters. The tannins are mid weighted and give balance and savouriness. The finish is rounded and long thanks to the harmonious balance between fruit, fine tannin structure and the balanced acidity. A good example of a cool climate cabernet blend from what was a consistent vintage in Western Australia.
“Enjoy with pasta and red meats over the next six to eight years.”
Blended reds can be an especially enjoyable experience and if so undoubtedly reflect quality winemaking. In this case the two Cabernets complement that said, and as well, the winemaking behind Three Drops, generally. The May 2019 Dozen included their 2017 Mount Barker Riesling, the second of their wines after the Chardonnay (August 2017), a Jo of Bacchus Wines recommendation. I tried one of those remaining Riesling wines in the first lock-down, many months later and it stole my attention, and at the same time encouraging a mindset to include any of these wines when available. The 2017 Cabernets was in the August 2019 Dozen.
Available to Retail.
Winery Details
Phone: 08 9315 4721
Open: No Cellar Door
Address: PO Box 1828, Applecross, Western Australia, 6953
Web: www.3drops.com
