Small Winemakers Tasting Dozens |
The Classic Summer Dozen | |
| CASTELLI ESTATE SHIRAZ 2015Winemakers Mike Garland & Andrew HoadleyWinemaker’s NotesPre-fermentation cold soaking for five days was followed by a seeded, clean, warm (25° - 30°C) ferment. Twice daily pump-overs and two rack returns during ferment. Total time on skins was 17 days to retain maximum fruit intensity and soft tannins. Maturation was 16 months in French barriques and hogsheads (40% new). Aromas of dark blue fruits such as blackberry and mulberry, opulent with an intense spicy depth and richness emanate from the glass. Hints of roasted fennel and dark chocolate add further nuances and complexity to the wine. The full bodied palate builds to a crescendo before finishing with rounded, opulent tannins that are perfectly integrated with savoury, tight grained French oak. The intensity of flavour and complex structural components in the wine can only be achieved from fully ripened Cool Climate fruit. Cellar“This wine will be able to confidently cellared over the next seven to 10 years.” Additional Notes“Overall a challenging but very rewarding Vintage. This wine is a typical example of ripe, cool climate Great Southern Shiraz.” I have mentioned before there have been a number of impressive Chardonnays in this year's Dozens, Castelli's included. And I was keen to venture further into their production. This Shiraz was a good place to start. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 9364 0400 |
| d'ARENBERG THE DRY DAM RIESLING 2017Winemakers Chester Osborne & Jack WaltonWinemaker’s NotesSmall batches of grapes are gently crushed, chilled and then basket pressed. The fermentation was long and cool, and was stopped before reaching total dryness to ensure that residual sugar remains to balance the high mineral acidity. Teeming with white flowers and granny smith, backed by a lovely core of lemon and lime. The sweetness on the palate is tempered by a sustained seam of perfectly pitched acidity. A sherbet like note is typical of classic Riesling years in McLaren Vale and is unmistakeable in this wine. Not a hint of metal hardness, the mouth feel is so refined and balanced and truly has settled into itself in record time. Cellar“Enjoy the heady yet delicate personality of this wine in youth or confidently cellar it, knowing, with time it promises even greater range and refinement. Five +.” Additional Notes“There was a sense of excitement amongst the winemakers as the fruit for the Dry Dam Riesling started rolling in during the early stages of vintage. The cooler ripening conditions were favourable for producing a wine of elegance, finesse and tenacity. We have just crept into July and that buzz seems well justified. Somehow, the 2017 edition of the Dry Dam appears to have settled quicker than most. Any ferment characters have hastily dissipated revealing a sparkling clean and aromatic bouquet.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8329 4888 |
 | GRANCARI ESTATE SPARKLING GRENACHE 2015Winemaker Rino OzzellaWinemaker’s NotesWhen you pour this wine into your glass, you're in the moment. The colour, rich darkish red, excites immediate interest. Earthy, spicy, plum and raspberry aromas with a soft medium weight, and with a finish showing fruit sweetness. CellarAs with the Sparkling Style this wine is made to drink now. Additional NotesFor a couple of hours in September, with a friend who lives in the Adelaide suburb of Morphett Vale, I visited Rino's Grancari Estate Winery, a five minute drive away. A vineyard of approximately 11 acres 'in the suburbs' of Adelaide. “In the early 1940s, George Cox planted six acres of Grenache (originally planted as bush vines). The property was purchased by Rino and Greta Ozzella a few months after the bush fires of 1983, the family home was built, and Rino was determined to re-establish the badly neglected vines. With the help of his wife and using traditional knowledge handed down from family in Italy he began the job of restoring the Grenache, converting them to trellis. One of the few reaming early plantings in the McLaren Vale region. Four and a half acres of Shiraz were planted in 1996 and a further one and a half in 1999. The wines are estate grown and produced, ensuring integrity of the organic status, from vineyard to the finished product.” In this case the perfect Christmas Pudding 'sparkler.' AvailabilityCellar Door or contact me. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8382 4465 |
| HEMERA ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015Winemaker Alex MacClellandWinemaker’s NotesGrapes are selected for harvest once they demonstrate pure fruit characters with retained acidity and freshness. They are then gently crushed into open top fermenters and manually pumped over to optimally extract flavour and structure. After pressing, the free run and pressed wines are combined based on taste before being transferred into a combination of (20%) new and seasoned French oak barrels for 18 months of maturation. Careful barrel selection takes place before the final wine is blended. A deep red / purple hue and an effusive nose of blackcurrants and black cherries combined with complexing notes of young cedar and cigar box, this could only ever be the noble grape, Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate takes this ringing expression of variety from the bouquet and adds layers of terroir with the generosity of the Barossa, enveloping the the bright black and red fruits in a swathe of finely knit and structured tannins. This framework both contains and directs the abundant fruit and ensures the wine retains balance and elegance right through tho the long and deeply flavoured finish. Cellar“Cellaring potential: eight to twenty years.” Additional Notes“The Cabernet Sauvignon for this wine comes from our trophy winning Block 5 which has wonderful sun exposure, well drained soils and cooling South Easterly breezes. This has been combined with parcels of fruit from the Eden Valley and eastern ranges of the Barossa Valley to provide a bright, positive and articulate expression of the beauty that can be achieved with this noble variety ion the Barossa.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8524 4033 |
 | JOSEPH CATTIN CREMANT d'ALSACE BRUTWinemaker Joseph Cattin (In House)Winemaker’s NotesMade according to the traditional Champagne Method, Cremant Brut Cattin is a fine sparkling wine, dry and delicately fruity. Luminous golden-yellow colour, with elegant and gentle bubbles. The bouquet is fresh, light and fruity. The palate is dry, delicate and fruity with apple, peach and flower notes. Cellar“Drink now or within the next four years.” Additional Notes“100% Pinot Blanc. Mostly grown in clay-limestone soils in vineyards located in the prestigious Upper Rhine region, at the base of the Vosges Mountains. Grapes are manually harvested early in the vintage to get fresh flavours and natural acidity. The grapes are gently pressed and the juice falls into a fermentation tank located below the press to preserve the aromas. The tank is thermo-regulated to ensure a low temperature fermentation (12° to 18°C) that will preserve the flavours and therefore produce high quality wine. After the first fermentation, the wine is bottled and aged for at least 12 months during which time the second fermentation happens in the bottle.” Yippee. Looking for another white wine, I rang Jo and asked her about another sparkling wine in her Portfolio, and she suggested this Alsatian for a consideration because it's beautiful. I have no trouble interpreting her and her use of words on this subject. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Sydney Distributor: Bacchus Wines Web: www.cattin.fr/en |
 | KENTIA ALBARIÑO 2016Winemaker In HouseWinemaker’s NotesThe wine appears pale gold or straw coloured, often with tinges of green. Fresh, crisp and fragrant with a virtual shopping cart of flavours and aromas: melon, pear, peach, tropical fruit, subtle herbaceous elements combine magnificently to produce this enticing silky white with pleasing minerality and refreshing acidity. Balanced, distinctive and elegant. Cellar“This wine will continue to develop complexity with bottle age.” I would interpret this to mean in the order of three to five years. Additional Notes“Rias Baixas (North West Spain), boasts a high number of quality grapes, chief among them is Albariño, occupying more than 90% of the DO's vineyard area (Legal Boundaries). The soils are largely granite, with some chalk and clay. The earth here offers lots of minerals but few nutrients, making it perfect for wine growing. Old vineyards planted in the pergola system, traditional in this area, produce Albariño grapes with a high level of acidity given the proximity to the Atlantic Ocean and the high level of rains.” From Vinsight, the local Distributor; quoting: “The President of the Regulating Council of the Rias Baixas Wine Appellation, Juan Gil de Araujo, announced that the 2016 vintage had been classified by the Council's plenary session, 'Excellent,' the highest category that can be granted. The last time this 'classification' was granted was in 2007.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. |
 | LINDSAYS HILLTOPS CABERNET MERLOT 2013Winemaker Jill LindsayWinemaker’s NotesA true to type Hilltops region Red, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot matured in one year old and new French Oak hogsheads. Bottled in November 2013. The wine exhibits those unique Hilltops characteristics, front of mouth fruit character, showing all the berry fruit flavours, which made these varieties so desirable in their original growing areas, and finishing with the lingering cherry character synonymous to the Hilltops Region reds. Cellar“Bottled under Diam corks the wine was intended to be a keeper, with a cellaring potential of 10 years plus.” Additional NotesOne from the vault. I phoned Phill Lindsay a couple of weeks ago to say hello and see what he and Jill were up to. They have scaled back the winemaking and eventually will re-locate to be nearer the new and newish grandchildren. The conversation covered many topics, as usual. You really need a lot of time to have a chat with Phill, but it's always worthwhile. Cellar Door is being driven these days by historical wines, this 2013 being one of them. AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone/Fax: 02 6382 2972 |
 | ROLF BINDER HEINRICH SMG 2013Winemaker Rolf BinderWinemaker’s NotesFruit for this wine is sourced from various Binder Estate vineyards in different areas of the Barossa. The major component, Shiraz, is a vineyard selection, including some fruit from Eden Valley. The Grenache is grown on the Western Ridge and the Mataro is from wonderful old bush vines planted in the 1880s. Fruit is crushed separately, fermented and aged until final blending and bottling. Vinification occurs in open fermenters with pump overs twice daily. The fermentation was completed in tank and the wines then racked to barrel. Oak for the Shiraz was 15% new oak, 45% Shaven American and 40% two year old American. For the Grenache, 50% shaven French, 30% shaven American and 20% two year old French. The Mataro was aged in 50% shaven French and 50% shaven American oak. The wine was blended to taste and style, utilising the body and strength of the Shiraz (50%), the ripe confectionery fruit of the Grenache (20%) and the fine earthy tannins of the old vine Mataro (30%). Brilliant crimson colour, very bright, almost glowing and pales a little at the rim; pure, fragrant aroma at times floral and violets come to mind but also showing warm climate richness and ripeness; the palate is much more delicate than that of single variety Shiraz and builds gradually in the mouth and finishes with satisfying, delicious fruit and tannins. Cellar“This is a wine that ages well and could be enjoyed until 2026.” Additional Notes“A classic Rhone blend... this tribute to my father, Rolf Heinrich Binder, is one of my favourite wines to make. I really enjoy the challenge of getting the balance of the three varietals just right.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8562 3300 |
 | RUTHERGLEN ESTATES SHELLY'S BLOCK 2016Winemaker Mark ScalzoWinemaker’s NotesComplex bright yellow stone fruits are harmonically entwined with the walnut aromas that are supported with hints of cinnamon like spices. The palate is soft, round and lightly spiced. The fruit intensity of the Viognier is well balanced by the Rousanne's length of flavour and the fresh citrus backbone of the Marsanne. Careful barrel maturation has produced an textural wine, with great freshness, aromatics and length of flavour. The subtle oak spices hold up the stone fruit and fresh citrus fruits in the mouth. Cellar“While designed to be enjoyed young and fresh, the characteristics of the varieties allow the development of added texture and palate richness as the wine ages in the bottle. Over the next two years.” Additional Notes“'Shelly's Block' is named after the original 1880's block owned by the Shelly Family, and is where all three varieties here: Marsanne 48%, Viognier 42% and Roussane 10% are grown and blended to make this wine. The Marsanne and the Viognier are harvested in batches at various levels of ripeness, to maximise the range of varietal flavours and characters. Early harvested Marsanne delivers citrus and lemon butter notes, while the later picked grapes contribute hints of honeysuckle on the palate. Viognier is a typically rich variety but when picked early displays delicate floral and tropical fruit notes and maintains elegance. The Roussane adds structure and texture to the blend. Each variety was fermented separately: 51% in stainless steel and 49% in barrels (12% new) with wild yeast. The blend shows a great balance between fresh intensity and complex toasty notes.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6032 7999 |
 | SIX ACRES YARRA VALLEY CHARDONNAY 2016Winemaker Aaron ZuccaroWinemaker’s NotesGrapes were hand harvested into 30 Litre crates. Grapes were gently foot stomped then basket pressed. The juice was allowed to settle overnight, then racked off heavy solids to French oak (50% new, light toasted). Wild ferment, partial wild malo-lactic fermentation. Post ferment wine left undisturbed on full solids for 10 months. Following this period the barrels were stirred and the wine transferred to tank and allowed to settle for six months. Racked to a separate tank then hand bottled via gravity unfined and unfiltered. On the nose: Honey dew melon, nectarine and fig with almond meal and cashew nuances. This unfined and unfiltered wine has rich mouth feel, not the lean style, the flavours mirror the nose with a creamy finish, with well integrated oak. Cellar“Five years.” Additional NotesI repeated to Nicholas Gibson a comment made earlier, that the Chardonnay wines in this year's Dozens have represented quite well the 'new wave' of this style, better balanced wines. I had in mind a wine he also handles, but he was very keen on this one from the Yarra Valley. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 0408 991 741 |
 | TOM'S DROP SHIRAZ 2015Winemaker Michael O'donohoeWinemaker’s NotesFull organic practices have been maintained on O'Donohoe's farm since 1986, with a polyculture of trees, vines, plants and creatures. We seek the fungal dominance of our soil, and where we can, we encourage woody plants such as old man salt bush which adds to this dominance. We use a minimum of water and strive to keep yields below two tonnes per acre. Our grapes have small bunches and small berries, are hand picked and basket pressed. Just seeking out quality with much biodiversity. This wine is described as delicious, expressing blackberry, licorice, spice and ripe prunus plums well integrated with chocolate nuances derived from French Oak maturation. CellarNow and over the next three to five years. Additional NotesI asked Michael for notes further to the label and he said it’s all there. So to the Web Page. “The complex wild yeasts on the grape berries are allowed to develop because of a no spray regime, and these are the yeasts used in the fermentation of the wine to reflect a true terroir of Outback Australia. Very importantly grapes are hand picked, for the best selection of grapes and protection of the ecosystem. O'Donohoe's farm is part of the UNESCO Riverland Biosphere Reserve and our farming methods are directed to the management goals of the reserve.” This describes the operation pretty well. It is a good idea to give the wine a time to stand and 'breathe' after opening. AvailabilityPlease contact me or Michael O'Donohoe on 0478 288 379 for an entertaining chat (believe me you will get one) |
 | YARRAWOOD YARRA VALLEY PINOT NOIR 2016Winemaker Travis Bush (Contract)Winemaker’s NotesEstate produced, harvest was over a three week period to ensure each parcel of fruit was picked at optimal ripeness. Two clones, the MV6 provides structure and depth and the D5V12 providing tightness and aromatic lift, with floral and delicate notes. Each fruit parcel was de-stemmed only and pumped into separate static fermenters for inoculation and fermentation for seven to ten days. Ferment temperatures peaked at 29°, before being cooled to promote production of a soft fruit profile and ensure good tannin extraction. Post Malo Lactic fermentation in June 2016 and an additional six months maturation on lees followed, with French being the choice of Oak to build subtle complexity. Finally, the parcels of wine were blended and lightly filtered prior to bottling. The wine appears purple into crimson with a ruby hue. The nose shows dark cherry, raspberry and spice. On the palate, the wine is vibrant or 'lively,' with red plum, cherry and cranberry. Cellar“Enjoy now and up to five years cellaring.” Additional NotesI've had a glass of this wine nearby for over an hour now, and with time there is relief. It replaces a Cabernet, which after some thought I decided to drop. That wine offered great value in a dollar sense, but was a little out of the way of the future of these Dozens. Too generic. So, after some quick talk, re-visiting Yarrawood seemed practical. This is the only Pinot Noir in this lot, and it may be carrying with it some unenlightened, for me, irony. Jacki Osborne keeps pushing 'the push' for Rosé and I resist. But looking at the structure of this wine there could be sufficient coincidence. I will ask among you. Cheers. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 03 9730 2003 |
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