Small Winemakers Tasting Dozens |
The Classic February Dozen | |
| CARGO ROAD RIESLING 2009Winemaker James SweetappleWinemakers NotesThe colour is pale straw with pale green hues. The nose is typical of cold climate low alcohol Riesling, with full jasmine and citrus blossom nose and hints of talc and mineral characters. The palate shows rich fruit flavours of mandarin and lime juice. These fruit flavours contribute to huge mid palate flavour, kept in check by neat acidity with balanced residual fruit sweetness and a very lengthy citrus finish. Cellar“Will sit down for 20 years if you have the time.” Additional NotesAgain, there is the very interesting and attractive partnership of the Orange Region and what the Riesling grape can do. Early days yet, and as mentioned in the Winemaker Profile, James has increased plantings of Riesling. This, along with the fact that many of the locals now make a Riesling, as they see not only its potential but a promise of a more significant demand. All goes well for the future, and we can all look forward to what the style delivers. AvailabilityCellar Door Or Please Contact Me. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6365 6100 Fax: 02 6365 6001 Open: W/E & P/H 11 to 5. Address: Cargo Road, Orange, NSW, 2800. |
| CARGO ROAD WINES DESERT ZINFANDEL 2008Winemaker James SweetappleWinemakers NotesGrapes for the Desert Zinfandel are picked ‘raisined’ at about 20° Baume and let soak after crushing to get some juice interaction going; extracting colour, flavour and body before adding a yeast with poor alcohol tolerance. The yeast partially completes fermentation leaving behind large amounts of natural sugars. The wine then spends a month or two in old oak and bottled about June, but not without some ‘fun.’ The wine undergoes a very difficult sterile filtration. ‘Cross flow’ has made it easier, however it is a challenge each time. The resulting wine is dark, thick red with a nose showing intense blackberry jam and stewed rhubarb. A full bodied red wine, bursting with red fruit flavours of plum, rhubarb, berries, cherries, chocolate and mint. The palate is luscious and raisiny, with a lingering sticky finish. It drinks well with all things chocolate. CellarSavour anytime, sweetly preserved. Additional Notes“We had heard of this style being made by one place in South Africa as well as in the USA, so away we went. The wine is deliberately sweet and very thick like jam. The grapes are harvested extremely ripe, ‘Christmas Pudding ripe,’ and we allow the ferment to stop leaving residual sugar and full grape flavours.” James sent me a pie chart of the Cargo Road vineyard by variety, and Zinfandel now occupies 22% of total plantings. And this wine, the Desert Zinfandel, in addition to the ‘fermented out’ dry table wine from the same variety is a great example of what James has adjusted to. Where he is quoted in his ‘Winemaker Profile,’ at the time of the sale of the Cargo Road Winery in 1997, he inherited a vineyard with a significant Zinfandel presence, and he is making the most of it. AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6365 6100 Fax: 02 6365 6001 Open: W/E & P/H 11 to 5. Address: Cargo Road, Orange, NSW, 2800. |
 | CRACROFT CHASE WOODS EDGE PINOT GRIS 2006Winemaker Alistair GardnerWinemakers NotesFermented dry and aged on lees for nine months in both tanks (90%) and old French and American barrels (10%). It displays ripe aromas of pears and stone fruit with a hint of spice. It is a dry mouth filling wine with a long persistent finish. CellarDrinking perfectly now with a promise of hanging on a couple of years yet. Additional Notes“Between 1998 and 1999 five acres of Pinot Gris were planted on grafted rootstocks in this picturesque vineyard nestled at the foot of the Christchurch Port Hills. The grapes are processed in the onsite winery with state – of – art Italian machinery. The label carries the name of the original landowners, the Cracroft – Wilson family, and Wood’s Edge refers to the location of the vineyard. Alessandro and Wilma Laryn migrated from Italy in 1996 own and manage the property.” Pinot Gris is the only grape variety grown at Cracroft, which may not surprise, and it expresses itself in other ways, but Paul from Haviland Wine Merchants was particularly keen to have the Wood’s Edge looked at. And I can see why. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: +64 3 337 9339 Fax: +64 3 337 9577 Open: Yes. Check times. Address: 110 Shalamar Drive, Christchurch, 8022, N.Z. |
| DE SALIS WILD CHARDONNAY 2009Winemaker Charles SvensonWinemakers NotesThe 2009 Wild Chardonnay was picked between 12.5 and 12.7° baumè, whole bunch pressed, settled for 36 hours, racked to tank and allowed to ferment to 9° baumè, transferred to 1, 2 & 3 year old French barriques for 12months. The 2009 Wild Chardonnay was lees stirred for 9 months with natural malolactic fermentation occurring at the onset of spring. Racked to tank, blended, cold settled and racked again the Wild Chardonnay was bottled after minimal filtering. The Wild Chardonnay has poached stone fruit and undertones of hazel nuts on the nose, with the slightest hint of fine grained oak. The pallet is fine on the front, round in the mid with a backbone of fine oak tannin and acid to draw the back to a lingering seamless finish. Cellar“With good cellaring, this wine will age well for 5-8 years, enjoy.” Additional NotesI am saving up the majority of this story for a Winemaker Profile hopefully in February or May next year. There is too much to tell about this bloke Svenson. I met him briefly, we agree, probably during the 1999 vintage at Canobolas Smith. From that point he and many of his mates were fixtures, as was I, for the next half a dozen or so vintages. Charlie was always determined to have his own winemaking operation. He has made and has been involved in the making of many wines, but this one is significant to me, his first Chardonnay under his long planned De Salis label. Cheers. AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone: 0403 956 295 or 0403 210 703 Open: Not yet. Soon. Address: 125 Mount Lofty Road, Orange, NSW, 2800. |
 | DOONKUNA CABERENT SAUVIGNON 2006Winemaker Bruce MarchWinemakers NotesThe grapes were sourced from the “House Block’ vineyard. The vines first planted in 1971 are showing mature fruit characters. The grapes are hand picked, then fermented in small batch lots with hand plunging. The resulting wine is aged in French oak for 15 months. The wine shows vibrant ruby hues. The bouquet is classic Cabernet with spice and menthol. The palate is rich with sweet dark bramble fruit and a central theme of spices. Soft tannins help to balance the acidity and add length to the finish. CellarFive to eight years. Additional NotesI had a telephone call from Bruce March in early July asking me when I would use another Doonkuna wine. So, on a swoop through Young and Canberra a couple of weekends ago I called in. I was curious to see the renovations since last there a couple of years ago. Physically it’s a big place now, most impressive. I bought a few wines, a couple of whites and this Cabernet Sauvignon mainly because I noted its modest alcohol content. Without banging on, I was curious. I think it is a good enough reference to be used here, and I would be very interested to hear any comment. I enjoyed it. AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6227 5811 Fax: 02 6227 5085 Open: Daily 11 to 4. Address: Barton Highway, Murrumbateman, NSW, 2582. Web: www.doonkuna.com.au |
 | FREEMAN PINOT GRIS PLUS FORTUNA 2009Winemaker Brian FreemanWinemakers NotesAn evolving floral scent with savoury aromatics overlying a full, yet balanced structure. The palate is dominated by an amalgam of flavours and a fine body, complimented by minerality on the front of the palate and a savoury mid – palate fullness that together creates an elegant structure with lingering appeal. CellarI forgot to ask, but the books seem to call it as immediately enjoyable and good for several years thereafter. Additional NotesThere’s an entry on the back label that simply says in description of this wine “Delightfully Different,” and this is most accurate. “A savoury wine created by combining the natural and complementary attributes of the chosen varieties rather than applying winemaking magic to create complexity and structure. Pinot Gris provides pear flavour and savouriness, Riesling contributes acidity and minerality, Chardonnay rounds the palate weight and Sauvignon Blanc livens up the palate. The splash of Aleatico heightens the aromatics of this wine. Fortuna is a field blend of these five varieties produced from 35 year old low yielding vines. It is inspired by the aromatic white wines of two regions of Northern Italy – Friuli and Alto Adige.” It is a wine, crafted with an attractive texture in mind, a wine with not only great flavour but shows a lovely mouth - feel. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone / Fax: 02 6384 4299 Open: By appointment. Address: 101 Prunvale Road, Prunvale, NSW, 2587. |
 | KINGSTON ECHELON SHIRAZ 2007Winemaker Bill MoularadellisWinemakers NotesThe colour is deep dark red radiating to a deep garnet with violet highlights. The Nose: fruity plum characters entwined with the freshness of eucalypt are complemented by the developed spicy notes of plums, dark berries and cloves. Ripe plum and soft dark berry front palate and finishes wonderfully with spice, eucalypt fruit with soft smooth oak and tannin. Full bodied with an amazing long finish. Cellar“Ideal conditions to 10 years.” Additional NotesA multi regional wine: “Fruit from Adelaide Plains (42%), Clare Valley (41%) and Limestone Coast (12%) was fermented separately in 20t static fermenters and pumped over three times per day for the first four days at temperatures peaking at 28 – 29°C. At 3° Baume when ample colour and tannin were achieved, the ferment was drained off from the skins and heavy pressings were separated from the blend. The wine was allowed to finish fermentation in 40% American and 60% French new Hogs Heads during its 18 months barrel maturation.” This wine was the reason for a timely phone call from Jacki Osborn. She says it isn’t in wide circulation and that I probably wouldn’t have noticed it. She’s right. It has performed outstandingly in many high profile shows, but as it should do, the wine speaks very well for itself. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8243 3700 Fax: 08 8243 3777 Open: By Appointment. Address: Sturt Highway, Kingston-on-Murray, S.A., 5331. |
 | MICHELINI SANGIOVESE 2009Winemaker Greg O’KeefeWinemakers NotesThis Sangiovese, produced from the famous Brunello clone has medium red colour, with dusty, earthy, stewed fruit aromas. The palate shows full ripeness and structure with a lovely balance of fruit and oak and a long savoury finish. This wine is suited perfectly to polenta and stew. Cellar“Enjoy within 3 – 4 years of vintage.” Additional NotesMichelini was introduced to the Dozens with their Marzemino in February this year. I have kept in touch with Glen Brereton in regards to other wines as well as the release of this Sangiovese, which is only recent. It does react well to airing; in fact I thought it was better 24 hours later, re-capped half empty. From the Michelini Notes: “In 1851 the Michelini family began growing grapes and making wine in the Alto Adige region of Northern Italy. Emo Michelini was only 25 years old when he arrived in Sydney in 1949 and commenced planting grapes in the Buckland Valley in North Eastern Victoria in 1982. This tradition continues today with the magnificent Cellar Door and winery on the Great Alpine Road in Myrtleford, Victoria.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 03 5751 1990 Fax: 03 5751 1410 Open: Daily 10 to 5. Address: Great Alpine Road, Myrtleford, Victoria, 3737. |
 | MILLTON CRAZY BY NATURE COSMO RED 2009Winemaker James MilltonWinemakers NotesAn eclectic marriage of three special mouth watering grape varieties (Malbec, syrah and Viognier) that grow well in our vineyards, producing a wine showing notes of bitter chocolate and booze – soaked maraschino cherries, with just a hint of spicy cigar box. It’s a delicious red wine looking for a good time, with enough texture and chewy tannin to enjoy with venison, roast beef or pink roasted lamb back straps. Grown biodynamically using special herbal, mineral and animal preparations and with compassion for the laws of nature. There was definitely no use of herbicide, insecticide, systemic fungicide or soluble fertilizer. Fined with natural egg whites from our own chooks, so this wine can be enjoyed in moderation by vegetarians as well. Bottled on the property without filtration thus a harmless deposit may form. Cellar”Drink between 2010 and 2014.” Additional Notes“In 1984 they thought we were crazy to grow our grapes organically. We’ve spent the last 25 years proving that they were right! Now, it seems everybody wants to be crazy, and that’s just what this planet needs. Crazy by Nature – makes perfect sense.” Not only conviction but a good sense of humour, something else the planet appreciates. The wine is good fun to boot. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: +64 6 862 8680 Fax: +64 6 862 8869 Open: Yes Address: 119 Paputa Road, Manutuke, Gisborne N.Z. Web: www.millton.co.nz |
 | PINDARIE LA FEMME SAVAGNIN 2010Winemaker Mark JamiesonWinemakers NotesThe fruit was crushed and the free – run juice was drained from the skins. Fermentation was controlled at low temperatures to maximise the retention of the fruit’s fresh varietal flavours. Aromatic yeast was used to enhance natural white peach aromas. Fermentation progressed over a three week period through to dryness. The wine remained on yeast lees for four weeks to enhance complexity and stability of flavours. The wine was then filtered off lees ready for bottling with minimal intervention. Cellar“The la Femme is designed for early drinking and is a perfect summer wine, well suited to spicy Asian dishes and simple sea food delights.” Additional Notes“This wine was produced entirely from vines grown at Pindarie. In style an aromatic, classic dry white wine with aromas of white peach and nectarines. The palate is refreshingly crisp with subtle citrus like acidity, complex and with great length.” This is one of a wealth of white wines that have emerged one way or another since May, to be included here. This particular one caused a lot of positive comment at the recent Haviland Wine Merchants Portfolio Tasting, which is good for Pindarie and all those growers and makers (Allinda) who thought they were working with Albarino. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8524 9019 Fax: 08 8524 9090 No Cellar Door Address: PO Box 341 Tanunda, SA, 5352. Web: www.pindarie.com.au |
 | ST. IGNATIUS HANGMANS GULLY SHIRAZ 2008Winemaker Enrique DiazWinemakers NotesThis outstanding full body Shiraz shows deep purple hues and lifted aromatics. The fruit has undergone hand plunged fermentation at 26-29° C for 13 days, followed by extended maceration on the skins. This delightful wine has been aged for twelve months in French Oak Hogsheads of which 40% were new oak. Clarification occurred naturally during barrel ageing followed by light filtering and bottling. The colour is deep purple, with the nose showing layers of packed pure varietal fruit complemented with spicy and earthy tones. The palate is firm with dry tannins, showing a long, subtle and elegant finish. Cellar“Best now to 10 years.” Additional NotesSomewhere along the way I missed out on the 2007 version of this wine, as my notes tell me that last August, the 2006 wine was included. No matter, this wine continues to fascinate, the 2008 being quite different to the 2006. Any seasonal differences aside, the wood treatment is back to French Oak after American Oak therapy for the 2006, which I thought outstanding as well as surprising. I often find straight American Oak too dominant. This is a more elegant wine I think, a little closed to begin with and reacts well with airing. I plan catching up with the St. Ignatius mob soon and I look forward to asking Enrique about his wooded thoughts. AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone / Fax: 03 5465 3542 Open: Daily 10 to 5. Address: 5434 Sunraysia Highway, Lamplough, Victoria, 3352. |
 | WITCHMOUNT TEMPRANILLO 2009Winemaker Steve GoodwinWinemakers NotesFully ripe fruit with intense and complex flavours was crushed and destemmed into stainless steel fermenters with SO Cellar“Up to five years.” Additional NotesAfter all the publicity for their highly decorated Shiraz 2004 (November 2007), their Barbera 2005 was included in the August 2008 Dozen. After the recent Haviland Wine Merchant Portfolio tasting, this August Dozen seems like a good opportunity to bring into play their Tempranillo. This wine was another to be very well received on the day and it seemed an excellent opportunity to add variety to this collection of wines. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 03 9747 1188 Fax: 03 9747 1066 Open: Wednesday to Sunday 10 to 5. Address: 557 Leakes Road, Rockbank, Victoria, 3335. Web: www.witchmont.com.au |
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