Small Winemakers Tasting Dozens |
The Classic November Dozen | |
BENWARIN HUNTER VALLEY CHARDONNAY 2005Winemaker Jim ChattoWinemakers NotesThe fruit was crushed, lightly pressed and chilled immediately after harvesting. It was cool fermented in stainless steel at 12 to 14°C until approximately 7° Baumé. A portion was then transferred to new French oak barriques to complete primary and malolactic fermentation. The barrel fermented portion was matured in the barrels for seven months with lees stirring after which it was blended with the unoaked portion. It was then clarified, filtered and bottled. The finished wine is straw green in colour. There are ripe flavours of pineapple, peach and melon all underpinned with spicy oak. On the palate the wine is well balanced with sweet, ripe fruit flavours and a complexity due to the partial barrel ferment. It has a long pleasing finish. CellarMedium term three to five years. Additional NotesThis wine came to the rescue, literally, as the planned Allinda Chardonnay wasn’t available. With many good write – ups, Al is committed elsewhere, but he has planted a few seeds for thought for the future. So it was a reminder from Paul Sanderson of Haviland Wines about this multi awarded wine. And it is good to see a Hunter Chardonnay once again in the mix, which is real meaning behind its presence here: that classic Hunter Style. The grapes are Estate grown on Mistletoe Lane in Pokolbin in the Lower Hunter and the wine made by Jim Chatto. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Contact DetailsPhone: 02 8354 1375 Fax: 02 8354 1376 Open: No Cellar Door. Address: 32 Kings Lane, Darlinghurst, NSW, 2010. Web: www.benwarin.com.au E-mail: | |
CLONAKILLA RIESLING 2008Winemaker Tim KirkWinemakers NotesThe summer was warm, not hot and the nights stayed cool: perfect. We picked just as the heat wave of early March was beginning. The resulting wine carries the ideal Riesling combination of delicacy and power. It shows fresh citrus notes, aniseed, spring flowers and subtle mineral character. The palate is bright, racy and persistent. Cellar“Drink now for its freshness and perfume or cellar for six to twelve years and watch it develop honey and toast characters with age.” Additional NotesIt has been far too long not to have a Clonakilla wine in the Dozens. Well before the last showing and along the way Clonakilla has continued its rise probably to “National Treasure” status. This makes it difficult to land any of Tim’s wines into the Dozens. Their Riesling being one of the few wines still able to be a player here, at least for the time being. High quality and a continually growing reputation produces a strong national and international demand for their wines which in turn brings an economic consideration, but Riesling, fortunately, still squeaks into range. In the Ravensworth Notes from August, winemaker Bryan Martin’s quote is “Riesling is the regions premier mainstream variety.” The tribal drum continues to beat this message. Recently I have heard more references to this call, even to the point where some informed souls have said it is their preferred source for this variety. AvailabilityCellar Door only. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6227 5877 Fax: 02 6227 2582 Open: Daily 10 to 5. Address: Crisps Lane, of Murrumbateman Road, Murrumbateman, NSW, 2582. E-mail: | |
DELATITE SYLVIA RIESLING 2006Winemaker Jane DonatWinemakers NotesIt was picked earlier than the other Riesling and is loosely based on the German “Kabinett” style of Riesling which is low in alcohol, fruit driven and is usually a little sweet. This is the first release of this style at Delatite and the acid and sugar are beautifully balanced. This balance is achieved by stopping the fermentation when it tastes just right and is something the winemakers keep a close eye on. This is a beautifully balanced example, the sweet lime juice fruit offset by perfectly balanced acidity. Cellar“Drink now with any Chinese food, German pork dishes with sauerkraut to fresh fruit salad to lemon tart.” Additional Notes“Delatite joins a growing number of Riesling producers from cool regions (Bellarmine, Hood Wines, et al) making wine in the style of the Kabinetts from Mosel in Germany.” Recently I was picking wine up from Rowland of DWS when he mentioned there was a new winemaker at Delaitite doing new things. ‘Pennies were dropping all over the place.’ “With Jane Donat’s appointment as Delatite’s winemaker a new chapter has begun. Jane has brought to the company both great experience and the latest winemaking techniques from around the world, completing 14 vintages in Germany, New Zealand, Canada and around Australia.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 03 5775 2922 Fax: 03 5775 2911 Open: Daily 10 to 5. Address: Cnr Stoney & Pollard Rds., Mansfield, Vic., 3722. Web: www.delatitewinery.com.au E-mail: | |
KYWARRA MERLOT 2006Winemaker Chris WallWinemakers NotesThe grapes were handpicked at 14.5° Baumé, crushed and hand plunged in one tonne stainless steel fermenters for two weeks. After fermentation, the wine was matured in French barriques for one year. The wine is brick red in colour and has a classic cool climate Merlot nose with typical fruitcake and dusty characters. The natural sweetness of well ripened fruit and smooth tannin finish makes this wine able to be enjoyed on its own or with food. Cellar“Drink and enjoy now and over the next few years.” Additional NotesThis wine is here for a number of reasons. The previous Charles Svenson’s sourced Cabernet Merlot 2005 in May will develop its own story. This wine is from and made at Chris and Vicki Wall’s Orange property. Perhaps partly because of Ron Liebich’s ‘sponsored’ revelation of Merlot as noted here. I took early notice, but also in the past I have picked high quality fruit at Kywarra and have got to know the Walls as part of the Orange wine mob. Also Chris is not removed from encouragement from another Chris (Derrez), the local Burgundian winemaker and bottler, who once asked, while refering to another wine he’d made how many times he racks the wine before bottling. “I don’t,” was his reply. “Ah, you make wine like a Frenchman!” And that’s good enough for me. AvailabilityPlease contact Me Winery DetailsThere is no Cellar Door. | |
LIEBICHWEIN RON’S SELECTION MERLOT 2005Winemaker Ron LiebichWinemakers NotesThe wine is made from 100% Merlot off the Liebich’s Rowland Flat vineyard in the Barossa Valley. The fruit from 17 year old vines was picked at 16° Baumé, late in the season for optimal flavour. Traditional hand plunging of the skins, basket pressing and non – filtration have achieved excellent colour and flavour extraction. Oak maturation of 15 months in various aged Nevers and Vosgues hogsheads. Milk chocolate nose drowning in stewed dark cherries and voluptuous ripe mulberries with delicate spicy French and Hungarian oak. The wine is full bodied yet soft, with silky mouth feel and abundant sweet fruit. Cellar“Five to ten years.” Additional NotesAs previously mentioned, Janet sent some sample bottles of wine earlier this year. In it was the Barossa Pinot which captured the imagination, and was included in August. Also ‘contained’ within that posting was this ‘blockbuster 15.5% v/v alcohol Merlot. I looked at it for weeks almost too scarred to crack it. I remember from the first meeting with Ron, he had a paternal view of the Valley’s Grenache with a great respect for its winemaking capabilities. But this is deep in Barossan culture. What was attracting his attention most then and now is Merlot and what you can do with it. Eventually I broke the seal and saw a Merlot wine which really was a revelation. A couple of weeks ago when I rang Janet to see if I could use it, Ron happened to pick up the phone hearing only a reference to a Merlot. “Which one,” he asked. Janet said: “the 2005 and get off the line, I’m talking.” He did as ordered, but only after saying: “you picked the right wine.” Be aware the alcohol is high but you don’t notice it. AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8524 4543 Fax: 08 8524 4047 Open: Mon to Sat. 11 to 5 Address: Steingarten Road, Rowland Flat, S. A, 5352. E-mail: | |
MURRAY STREET Barossa Valley SHIRAZ 2005Winemaker Andrew SeppeltWinemakers NotesDry grown on black and red clays over limestone and slate soils. Seven to ten day ferments in open fermenters with a combination of cultured and wild yeasts. Skins were basket pressed. Small batch ferments from separate vineyard parcels allows for greater complexity. The wine is black as blackberry at night with a brilliant purple hue. The nose shows vibrant plum and rhubarb with pleasant toasty oak. The palate is wonderfully long, textured and spicy, this wine shows restraint and yet extreme power. A complex array of dark fruits and wildflowers is magnificently supported by top quality French Oak. CellarTen years plus. Additional Notes“A delightful growing season, perfect ferments behaving perfectly; I got the oak selection spot on and matured the wine for enough time to have all the complexities come together as one big, happy wine. Maybe I’ve got a few details wrong, maybe my memory only keeps the good bits, but I’m truly proud of this wine. I hope you enjoy it too.” These wines (Barossa Shiraz) appeal to me most when they’re not over the top and shooting to kill. Slightly restrained is my preference, as they show themselves in a more ‘exciting’ way, if that makes sense. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8562 8373 Fax: 08 8562 8414 Open: Daily 10 to 4.30 Address: Lot 723 Murray Street, Greenock S.A., 5360. E-mail: | |
PARACOMBE THE REUBEN 2004Winemaker Paul DrogemullerWinemakers NotesGrapes were carefully harvested and then fermented in small open tanks. The wine was matured in for 18 months in French Oak prior to bottling and then left to bottle age in the Paracombe underground wine cellars prior to release. The wine’s intense colour has deep ruby tones with bright edges in the glass. The bouquet provides lifted aromas of poached rhubarb and plum, together with hints of delicate oak, leatherwood and spicy licorice characters. The palate is finely structured with rich, sweet fruit driven flavours of fresh loganberries and raspberries interspersed with savoury and spicy notes. Overall the flavour is generous and lingers on. CellarDrink now and over the next 10+ years. Additional NotesThis wine was the pick of the wines at a Paracombe Dinner in Sydney in July this year, but still has the legs for long distance. “Six clones Cabernet Sauvignon were hand picked from Paul and Kathy’s vineyard along with specialist local growers, the Waugh family’s Malbec; Howard’s Merlot; Rensonnet and Clark’s Cabernet Franc and MacGillivray’s Shiraz.” This is how The Reuben is made, and is as noted, in the February 2006 Dozen which included the 2001 version of the same wine.Looking back at the previous Notes I have been remiss in not including more Cabernet Francs from this creator in the hills above Adelaide. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8380 5058 Fax: 08 8380 5488 Open: No cellar door E-mail: | |
THE ISLANDER SANGIOVESE 2005Winemaker Jacques LurtonWinemakers NotesThe colour is a nice red brick, typical of this variety. The nose shows a variety of red berries, strawberry, and earthy-barnyard with balanced oak. The palate: rounded, sweet tannins with earthy, gamey and oaky characteristics with a pleasant acid. The finish is of lingering sweet fruit, like dried dates all held together with a good tannic grip. A nice, complex wine from a lovely Italian variety. Cellar“Now until 2012.” Additional Notes“The grapes used to produce this wine are a combination from the Islander Estate and three other vineyards on the island, which underlies ‘The Islander’ by name. Kangaroo Island’s cool and dry climate has proven to be very conducive to many varieties, with this wine showing a great deal of richness and complexity. Very sweet berry notes are well balanced by with the vanilla from oak. The palate is very supple and long with no aggressive tannins as a Sangiovese can tend to produce. This is a sophisticated wine showing great complexity.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8553 9008 Fax: 08 8553 9228 Open: By appointment. Address: ‘Jumbuck’ Bark Hut Road, Kangaroo Island, SA, 5220. Web: www.iev.com.au E-mail: | |
ST. IGNATIUS FOUNDERS COLLECTION SHIRAZ 2005Winemaker Enrique DiazWinemakers NotesThis outstanding, stylish, full bodied Shiraz was made from 100% free – run fermented must, preserving tannin extraction during maceration. The fruit has undergone fermentation at 26 to 29° C; the wine was aged for 18 months in French oak barrels (40% new). Clarification occurred naturally during barrel ageing. Layers of packed pure varietals Shiraz fruit are complemented with spicy and earthy tones. On the palate the wine has excellent firm tannins. The long finish is subtle and elegant. Cellar“This wine will cellar magnificently over the next 10 years.” Additional NotesIt’s difficult to accept in a time sense that the 2004 Shiraz, a ‘highly rated’ wine out of the Hangmans Gully Vineyard was in the August 2007 Dozen. Over a year ago, but it was at that time I pulled out a 2002 model I had stashed away from the February 2005 lot, and it so ‘stunned’ me, it confirmed to me that I should somehow put into practice, a long held idea which can supplement these prodigious ‘single vineyard’ proprietor makers. It’s not a new idea, I realize this, and the Dozens have, and can always drift off in any direction they fancy. I look forward to talking to makers and consumers alike to form a plan. Relevant to this are some further words from Silvia Diaz: “The only other comment I would like to add is that the Shiraz was lightly filtered and decanting is recommended. In my modest opinion the layers of fruit in the 2005 are more impressive than its predecessor. I like the richness and the depth and consider that the high alcohol level does not compete but complement the ripe fruit flavour. We have to remember this was another vintage of 'drought'.” AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone / Fax: 03 5465 3542 Open: Daily 10 to 5. Address: 5434 Sunraysia Highway, Lamplough, Victoria, 3352. E-mail: | |
VINIFERA GRAN TINTO 2003Winemakers Tony McKendry and Frank NewmanWinemakers NotesA blend of Ganarcha (Grenache), Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo. Rich confectionary nose and plum pudding, fruit cake and blackberry characters. CellarDrink now and over the medium term three to five years from release. Additional Notes“Did you know that the Mudgee wine region has similar climatic conditions to the Rioja region in Northern Spain? This discovery set Vinifera owners, Tony and Debbie McKendry on an inspired journey into the world of Spanish wine. Their resulting Tempranillo, Ganarcha blends, Graciano and Gran Tinto wines are good – living reds that complement foods wonderfully.” As appears on their Cellar Door brochure. I was heading back to Sydney after visiting the Gilmours in Cumnock (Hoppers Hill Wines: nineteenth century winemakers) when Bob asked me which way I was heading. I told him I would head for Mudgee and Vinifera Wines. All he said was: “Spanish or Italian?” “Spanish” is all that was necessary to this aficionado of varieties even slightly off the mainstream. The Alternate Varieties Show in Mildura is his favourite show. AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6372 2461 Fax: 02 6372 6731 Open: Daily 10 to 5.30 Address: 194 Henry Lawson Drive, Mudgee, NSW, 2850. E-mail: | |
WARRAMATE PINOT NOIR 2006Winemaker David ChurchWinemakers NotesThe 2006 vintage was cooler than those preceding it and the grapes were harvested in excellent condition in March. This is the third wine produced from our Pinot Noir vines. They have been cropped at very low levels in this the sixth harvest after planting, and this has produced a wine of considerable depth of characteristic Pinot flavours of strawberry, cherries and barnyard floor, with complexity added by French oak maturation. Cellar“The screw cap guarantees either fine current drinking, or the gradual development of aged characters if stored under good conditions over the next five years.” Additional NotesA Pinot Noir adds good ‘variety’ for this Dozen. Paul from Haviland was pleased to talk of the addition of Warramate to their Portfolio. A well established family company (1970) in the Yarra Valley and well known for other wines, the Pinot is a new adventure. This wine is nice and lean and needs a little time to open up, at which point its charms do work to please. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone / Fax: 03 5964 9219 Open: Daily 10 to 6. Address: 27 Maddens Lane, Gruyere, Victoria, 3770. Web: www.warramatewines.com.au E-mail: | |
YERING STATION YARRA VALLEY M.V.R. 2006:Winemakers Tom Carson, Darren Rathbone and Caroline MooneyWinemakers Notes54% Marsanne, 36% Viognier and 10% Rousanne, the wine is straw yellow in colour. The palate shows uplifted fruit aromas of fresh peach, apricot, pear with hints of orange blossom and ginger. The palate has excellent weight with clean pear, peach, white stone fruit and orange. Creamy texture is supported by an integrated and balanced acid backbone aiding in a long minerally finish. Cellar“Drink now till 2010.” Additional NotesWhatever the secret recipe is, as the Notes differ from the back label as to what is proportionally blended here (M 67% V 25% and R 8%), they both add up to 100% in what is a classy wine. It is slightly reserved and shouldn’t be drunk too cold, which is quite possible. It reminds me a little of the Lillian blended wine from the May Dozen, in the same way that it keeps at you with each taste. It constantly sends out a message of something different, that this, a blended white wine, adds brilliantly to the diversity in white wine drinking. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 03 9730 0100 Fax: 03 9739 0135 Open: Daily 10 to 5. Address: 38 Melba Highway, Yarra Glen, Victoria, 3775. Web: www.yering.com E-mail: |
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