Small Winemakers Tasting Dozens |
The Classic February Dozen | |
| AMULET SANGIOVESE SCARECROW LABEL 2005Winemaker Ben CliftonWinemakers NotesThe fruit for this wine comes from the oldest vines of Sangiovese planted in 1998. Cherry / Garnet in colour and the nose reminiscent of cherries, anise, tar and spice. The palate has softness which belies the real structure. The wine is multi layered with savoury fruit flavours and soft tannins. CellarAlready benefiting from time in the bottle, drinking well now and over the next couple of years. Additional NotesAmulet Pinot Grigio was in the February 2006 Dozen, and in those Notes there was mention made of French and Mediterranean varieties being grown at Amulet. In the latest winemaking / winery profile notes there’s a little more on this. “After all, the climate of South East Australia is described as Mediterranean, and much of the landscape and vegetation of this region is reminiscent of Mediterranean lands. So we made a decision to plant Italian varieties in addition to traditional French.” On five hectares (approx 12.5 acres) they have growing: Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Sangiovese, Orange Muscat, Pinot Blanc, Barbera and Nebbiolo. Not bad. The art of winemaking has plenty to work with. Nick Gibson is behind this wine’s inclusion. And as he says this particular wine starts to show good form after a couple of years in the bottle. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 03 5727 0420 Fax: 03 5727 0421 Open: F to M 10 to 5 Address: Wangaratta Road, Beechworth, Vict. 3747. |
| DUTSCHKE GHR (Gods Hill Rd) SHIRAZ 2005Winemaker Wayne DutschkeWinemakers NotesThe 2005 GHR Shiraz is a ripe full flavoured wine. Big, soft and round with characteristics of plum. Both French and American oak characters compliment the sweet fruit and mid palate concentration. The ripe fruit characters and soft drying tannin highlight the finish. We trust you enjoy it. Cellar“5-8 years cellaring will result in a more complex wine.” Additional Notes“In the past our philosophy had always been to squash only grapes from the St. Jakobi Block and make only single vineyard wines, but since shifting here to God’s Hill Road our philosophy has slightly changed. We’ve been blessed by being able to call this ‘patch of dirt’ here on God’s Hill Road our home. God’s Hill Road is almost 2km long and runs along a small hill range to the west of Lyndoch Valley. Along this short stretch of road are some wonderful Shiraz vineyards growing on a collection of soil types. There’s Gilsmore’s Max’s Vineyard on some sandy terrain with scatterings of ironstone; the God’s Hill Vineyard of Charlie and Carlos on some wonderful red dirt with patches of sand; Robert and Nanette Staker’s vineyard of Shiraz on Benno Semmler’s old property with again red earth over clay; and Wally Krieg’s vineyard, much of which was planted back in the 1920s growing on some red dirt over clay and Biscay soils.” With high alcohol levels pushing at a point of acceptability, these big Barossa Shiraz wines can be scary. This wine has an elegance about it and any pre-emptive fears were very quickly put to rest. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8524 5485 Fax: 08 8524 5489 No Cellar Door Address: PO Box 107, Lyndoch S.A., 5351. |
 | EVANS & TATE RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2004:Winemaker Richard RoweWinemakers NotesColour is inky purple / black. The nose possesses a rich, varietal nose with subtle perfumes and many layers of complexity. Cassis, fresh blackberry, wine gum and tobacco leaf background oak characters of spice and cedar and a slight menthol lift. The palate is fleshy, rich and seamlessly integrated. Ripe, fresh dark berry fruits dominate with subtle savoury oak characters and fine dusty tannins. Cellar“Now to 2015.” Additional NotesSomewhere in the recent past I heard that McWilliams Wines had taken over Evans & Tate. Recently, I was talking to Glen from Macs, he who pushed the Mount Pleasant Merlot. He said he thought this was a really ‘lovely wine’ and he recommended it for this Dozen. It is unfortunate circumstances for this wine’s origins, but Glen is right. Further from the Notes: “Made from select parcels of fruit from our most outstanding vineyards, our Reserve wines represent the exquisite synergy between viticulture and winemaking. Blended for style, elegance and complexity, these wines are the ultimate expression of the vintage and the variety. The fruit for our 2004 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from three vineyards that have consistently produced our highest quality Cabernet with ripe varietal flavours and impressive colour and tannin levels.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail through McWilliams Wines (A National Treasure). Winery Details |
| GEOFF WEAVER ADELAIDE HILLS PINOT NOIR 2004Winemaker Geoff WeaverWinemakers NotesThe 2004 growing season was free from extremes of temperature. Autumn was beautiful with no significant rain to upset the harvest. The Pinot grapes were hand harvested on the 16th of April. The vintage weather was warm and generally dry. Crop levels were just under 2 kg per vine. Lifted cherry fruit with hints of plum, spice and leather. Distinctly Pinot. The palate shows ripe fruit and is complex, juicy and supple. Generously flavoured with a lingering, drying savoury tannin on the finish. Finely textured. Cellar“Freshness and complexity with a firm tannin foundation are fundamental requisites for ageing any wine and are features of our 2004. 5 years.” (Notes taken from the Geoff Weaver Web Site.) Additional Notes“The first Pinot produced from our vineyard at Lenswood was in 1996 (one barrique only). The Pinot vines were planted in 1992 and, now we have three acres planted; one acre each of three clones in our warmest vineyard sites. First planted with D5V12 which tends to set more crop than desirable, but when rigorously thinned, produces lovely flavours and the vines, although young, are able to fully ripen their tiny crop.” “…has developed complexity with some savoury / foresty characters, with particularly good length; medium bodied within the context of the variety. 93/100.” James Halliday Wine Companion 2008. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8272 2105 Fax: 08 8271 0177 Open: Not open. Address: 2 Gilpin Lane, Mitcham, S.A., 5062. |
 | HUIA PINOT GRIS 2007Winemakers Claire and Mike AllanWinemakers NotesThe grapes were hand-picked for optimum flavour. Once at the winery the grapes were crushed, pressed and then settled overnight. Around 50 percent of the juice underwent a natural ferment and the remaining juice being inoculated with re-hydrated wine yeast. Once the initial heat of the ferment had dissipated, 40 percent of the still gently fermenting Pinot Gris was move into French oak to complete ferment and so the lees could be stirred. Then the wine was blended and prepared for bottling. The nose reveals intense ripe pear character, white peach and rich exotic spices. Lovely soft texture with layers of white fruit, nuts and spices. This wine shows an excellent palate length and structure. Accredited Sustainable. CellarDrink now and over the next year or so. Additional Notes“The 2007 Pinot Gris was grown on the Anderson’s vineyard in the upper Brancott Valley and Huia’s Winsome Block. The vineyards have a mixture free draining clay loam and stones alongside sandy and clay soils. Both blocks are planted in a variety of old and new clones.” Also in the Notes: “Huia Pinot Gris is delicious with: seafood risotto, roasted and casseroled game, Thai food, grilled salmon and fresh water trout, seared game fish, rare beef salad, light blue cheese and walnut tart.” Anything really! “The Huia was a native New Zealand bird, which was much prized for their tail feathers.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 03 572 8326 Fax: 03 572 8331 Address: Boyces Road, RD 3, Blenheim, New Zealand. Web: www.huia.net.nz |
 | MEEREA PARK EPOCH SEMILLON 2007Winemaker Rhys EatherWinemakers NotesThe hand picked fruit was cold fermented entirely in stainless steel then bottled under Stelvin to capture varietal freshness. 2007 started off very hot and dry which led to early ripening and harvest commencing in mid January. The warm weather also caused elevated alcohol but this also means a user friendly wine. Citrus with hints of fruit salad aromas on the nose. The palate is quite soft and rich for Semillon, but this is a plus as it makes for a nicely balanced wine. The tropical fruit carries onto the palate which has a nice line of underlying acidity that keeps the wine tight and focused. Cellar“Five to seven years.” (Notes taken from the Meerea Park Web Site). Additional Notes“This premium wine was crafted from Semillon sourced from the Howard family’s ‘Somerset’ vineyard in Pokolbin. The Semillon block was planted in 1968. Semillon is traditionally the first fruit harvested in the Hunter Valley each year for still wine production. For Meerea Park, this signals the commencement of each vintage and this is our Epoch. Epoch: An interval of time memorable for extraordinary events and important influences.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 4998 7474 Open: At the Boutique Wine Centre Pokolbin. Address: Lot 3, Palmers Lane, Pokolbin, NSW, 2320. |
 | MINNOW CREEK BLACK MINNOW 2006Winemaker Tony WalkerWinemakers NotesA blend of 65% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Malbec. Harvested in late February 2006, the Sangiovese and Cabernet were co-fermented for six days on skins after concentration due to 15% of free run bled off for Rose. Ferment temperature 22-27 deg C. After MLF wine was racked to second use French hogsheads for 15 months maturation. The wine was bottled in August 2007. The colour is vivid dark red with bright crimson rim. The nose shows spicy dark cherry and rhubarb with white pepper, which are the primary fruit aromas. The palate is cherry and dark berries on entry and leads on to deeply spicy red fruits and licorice with a firm tannin grip. Cellar“This is a medium weight wine, suited to drinking on release and will repay cellaring up to four years.” Additional Notes“The Sangiovese comes from a block west of Willunga which is now in its 10th year of production, and is grown on deep loam over dark clays. The Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Green Shed Block’ is well over 20 years old and producing consistent fruit of excellent varietal flavour and depth.” This wine impounded itself in this Dozen in an impressive tactical way. I sneaked down to Adelaide for a cricket top-up and while there caught up with Tony and he brought out a bottle of the ‘Black Minnow.’ It was news to me and pleasantly so and a surprise the Dozens appreciate. And Malbec, you’re in mate! AvailabilityPlease contact me or Tony on 0404 288 108 Winery Details
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 | PIZZINI IL SOFFIOWinemakers Alfred and Joel PizziniWinemakers NotesPizzini’s Il Soffio (the bubble) is made from Sangiovese and is an Italian styled sparkling Rose. This sparkling wine is salmon in colour and has aromatics redolent of faded rose petals. Its attractive fruit sweetness shows hints of strawberries and cherries that linger whilst the fine perlage leaves the palate with a lively, creamy mouth feel. (From the back label). CellarDrink now style, but not too chilled. Additional NotesLast November Nick Butler from Winestock sent a few welcome samples of wines which he said he thought would suit the Dozens. Among them was a bottle of Il Soffio under a crown seal, a closure that is used increasingly these days in sparkling wines as a guard against cork taint. “An Italian styled sparkling Rose” noted from the label was the second thing that caught the eye after the colour of this wine, which is bright and alive. Then there was the supporting cast of Pizzini, King Valley and Sangiovese, all formidable performers. This wine wasn’t on the radar, and it’s here thanks to Nick, he was right. A wine equivalent to a refreshing G & T on a summer evening, but not too cold or those fine flavours will be locked out in the cold. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 03 5729 8278 Fax: 03 5729 8495 Open: Daily 10 to 5. Address: 175 King Valley Road Whitfield Victoria, 3768. Web: www.pizzini.com.au |
 | RAVENSWORTH SANGIOVESE 2006Winemaker Bryan MartinWinemakers NotesThe 2006 Sangiovese was picked in mid-April at 13.8 baume. At the winery we de-stemmed the fruit to 3 2.3 tonne fermenters where it was soaked for 7 days prior to natural fermentation, the temperatures were allowed to get quite warm (32C) and then the fermenters were pressed after 17-22 days. We use 20% new Boussuet oak from France for this wine and after 11 months its was taken out and bottled under screwcaps. Cellar“Drink over the next 5-8 years.” Additional Notes“A great year for Sangiovese….deep purple hues were uncovered during fermentation and the wine has evolved to display complex varietal characters: Black, dried cherry, spicy aromas of juniper, cloves and licorice. The very fine savoury tannins adding depth and flavour. If you were to try this in its youth, decant with lots of aeration about an hour. Let the wine breath and the savoury underbelly will peek out and surprise you with its complexity.” The 2005 Sangiovese was in the February 2007 Dozen and this the 2006 was another wine sample sent late last year by Nick from Winestock with its future inclusion in mind. “Ravensworth wines are grown and produced 3 km south east of Murrumbateman in the cool climate-growing region of the Canberra District. It was planted from 1998 to 2001 with Shiraz, Viognier, Marsanne, Riesling and Sangiovese. The focus is on super premium Shiraz with over a third of the vineyards now planted to various clones of this variety.” To all these later, but first enjoy this seductive little charmer as it reflects its Italian roots. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 1300 302 292 Fax: 02 6262 2161 No Cellar Door. Address: PO Box 116, Mawson, ACT, 2607. |
 | RICHFIELD VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2006Winemaker John CassegrainWinemakers NotesThe Richfield Vineyard Chardonnay shows notes of nectarine and melon with some complex butterscotch and toasty oak notes. The palate is full bodied with excellent acid structure and a creamy mouth feel that supports varietal fruit flavours of peach, grapefruit and melon with a touch of beautifully integrated oak. CellarEnjoy now and over the next few years. Additional NotesThere are a number of dedicated wine making ‘groups’ across the country doing their thing which makes them unique in their own way. One of the first things of interest about Richfield was its New England location near Tenterfield. You’ve got to have a look at that. In the short notes on its history it describes how Richfield was established by Frenchman Bernard Forey in the early 1990s. Site selection was made in consultation with Dr Richard Smart. This is a serious investment, and ‘there are many who consider New England as one of Australia’s most promising emerging regions for the production of premium grapes.’ John Cassegrain ‘joined the team’ in 2006. “The son of French migrants to Australia, John Cassegrain enjoys maintaining his strong links to France and has added another through his alliance with Bernard Forey. Together they are pursuing a winemaking approach that has less emphasis on fruit character and more on complexity and an easy drinking style.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6737 5488 Fax: 02 6737 5598 Open: Daily 10 to 4. Address: Bonshaw Road, Tenterfield, NSW, 2372. |
 | STANTON AND KILLEEN SHIRAZ DURIF 2005Winemaker Chris Killeen RIPWinemakers Notes50% Shiraz and 50% Durif. Shiraz has for many years been the backbone of the Australian red wine industry while Durif is a rare grape variety which has been grown in Rutherglen for over 100 years. It is renowned for making big full bodied styled wine that bottle ages well. The combination of these two varieties has produced an intriguing blend of fullness and flavour. The Shiraz exhibits plums and blackberry characteristics while the blockbusting Durif adds backbone and flavour length to the palate. Some pleasant oak overtones are evident on the bouquet due to the 12 months maturation in American and French oak barrels. Cellar“The wine will mature well over the next 4 to 6 years.” Additional Notes“The colour is quite developed, perhaps reflecting the Shiraz component; spicy, savoury, earthy flavours, best enjoyed younger than older. 89/100.” James Halliday Wine Companion 2008. I was hoping to include the previous vintage, the 2004 here after seeing an enthusiastic write-up from John Crook in the Stanton & Killeen Newsletter July 2007.The thread of his piece is captured in the Notes above in how important Durif is to Rutherglen winemakers. This wine is a dedication to the memory of Chris Killeen. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6032 9457 Open: Mon to Sat. 9 to 5 and Sunday 10 to 5. Address: Jacks Road, Murray Valley Highway, Rutherglen, Victoria. 3685. |
 | TOOGOOLAH RIESLING 2006Winemakers Chris Derez and Lucy MaddoxWinemakers NotesOur eight hectare vineyard sits at an altitude of 935 metres above sea level. The vines are hand pruned each winter well before budburst in about mid October. The vines then enjoy mild spring and summer temperatures and an extended ripening before the fruit being hand picked in mid March. Our first vintage off young vines has produce wine with intense floral aromas and a lively palate of lemon and lime. Cellar“Drink now and suitable to age until 2013.” Additional NotesI went to meet and talk and have a beer with Justin Byrne from Canobolas-Smith at Bondi Bathers Pavilion one Sunday late last year, where there was an Orange Produce day. I saw a stand called The Borenore Store, which apart from being a must visit coffee addict’s top-up stop, it is also licensed and carries a wide range of Orange wines. Orange and Riesling is a topic that has always appealed to me so I bought a few bottles on my way home from Cumnock. (Borenore is on the road that connects from Cargo Road out of Orange to the Wellington Road). I enjoyed this particular wine which is very good value for money as they say. And then I learnt it was made by Chris Derez and wife Lucy Maddox. Chris, the man from Burgundy, I had met several times at Canobolas-Smith, and is a winemaker whose wines always interest me. It is early days for Riesling here and this is a more than fair start. AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6365 2000 Fax: 02 6365 5545 Open: Daily 11 to 5. Address: 4602 Mitchell Highway, Lucknow, Orange 2800. Web: www.toogoolah.com.au |
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