Small Winemakers Tasting Dozens |
The Classic November Dozen | |||||||||||||
ANDERSON SPARKLING SHIRAZ 1999Winemakers Howard and Christobelle AndersonWinemakers NotesA traditional style ‘Sparkling Burgundy.’ This is a full bodied, rich, ripe, soft Sparkling Shiraz. It has spent over six years maturing on yeast lees to give added complexity and richness. We use traditional ‘Champagne’ techniques of hand riddling and hand disgorging to remove the yeast from the bottle, and this is done in small batches. This means that the yeast has always just recently been removed from the bottle when you buy it. Combine that with the long time spent maturing on yeast lees, and you have a lusciously creamy and fresh wine with wonderful depth and complexity. CellarPerhaps two to three weeks. Drink now. Additional Notes“This wine is the perfect match for gamey meats such as duck or kangaroo, or is a great partner to cheese or pate. At home we pull it out every time roast pork is on the menu (it goes particularly well with the crackling), and of course, it reigns King of the Christmas dinner table.” Notes taken from the Anderson Web Site. I recently enjoyed their Sparkling Merlot, one of the wines in the latest Anderson Cellar Pack, and the thought occurred to me again, that I really should put their Sparkling Shiraz in the next Dozen. And there’s no better time than now, the style that fired Howard’s imagination ‘all those years ago.’ AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6032 8111 Fax: 02 6032 7151 Open: Daily: 10 to 5. Address: Lot 12 Chiltern Road, Rutherglen, Victoria, 3685. Web: www.andersonwinery.com.au E-mail: sales@andersonwinery.com.au | |||||||||||||
CANOBOLAS SMITH STRAWHOUSE SAUVIGNON BLANC SEMILLON 2005Winemaker Murray SmithWinemakers NotesA full-bodied barrel-aged, dry white this Sauvignon Blanc Semillon spent 12 months in 5 year-old American oak puncheons (450l). It has evident vanillin oak aroma on the nose and attractive lemony Semillon flavours on the palate. Try with chicken with sage & garlic or risotto with peas & prawns (as below!). Cellar“We expect the wine will gain complexity over 2 years.” Additional NotesThe latest Gourmet Traveller WINE Magazine (October / November) featured the 2005 Strawhouse Sauvignon Blanc Semillon in combination with risotto with peas and prawns. “This complex, savoury dry white has richness and complexity way beyond a simple varietal wine. It’s been ages in old, second-hand barrels and, with time in bottle, the abundant yet finely honed flavours are at their peak. This wine has enough richness to deal with the power of the risotto but is refined enough to match the freshness of the peas and the sweetness of the prawns……an absolute bargain.” Whenever you drop in to say hello to Murray and the Cellar Door maestro, Justin Byrne and of course the red – head, Nugget, the four legged furry one, inevitably they suggest a wine or two for the next Dozen. I nearly went for their fortified Cabernet Sauvignon in 375ml bottles. What a treat it is and not surprising, knowing how good the Cabernet Sauvignon fruit is from there. Maybe another time. AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone / Fax: 02 6365 6113 Open: Weekends 10 to 5. Address: Boree Lane, off Cargo Road, Lidster, NSW 2800. Web: http://www.canobolassmithwines.com.au | |||||||||||||
DYSON GRANDE PRIVILEGE RESERVE VIOGNIER 2005Winemaker Allan DysonWinemakers NotesThe Grande Privilege Reserve Viognier is a unique varietal wine, with stone fruit, tropical fruit and subtle apricot flavours, along with citrus characters and balanced acid on the palate. Our aim is to create a varietal wine with unique textures, structure and fine varietal flavours. We know we have succeeded. CellarEnjoy now and over the next couple of years. Additional Notes“Harvest takes place in late March at optimum ripeness and flavour. The fruit is then chilled to about 10°C before crushing and basket pressing. The juice is cold settled with 75% fermented in mature French oak barriques, with the balance fermented in stainless steel tanks. The pressings are fermented separately and then blended back to the free-run when fermentation is finished. The controlled fermentation takes 3 to 4 weeks to complete. After fermentation the wine is allowed to settle and start to mature on yeast whilst the unique Viognier flavours develop. Maturation takes place in French oak barriques prior to bottling. Minimal handling and filtration are practised to ensure that the delicate Viognier flavours are protected.” Viognier is a long term project for Allan and his message was made loud and clear on my first visit. He planted the variety some time back, before it spread into local Shiraz wines. “It’s a very interesting variety and I don’t intend blending it with anything!” AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8386 1092 Fax: 08 8327 0066 Open: Daily 10 to 5 Address: Sherriff Road, Maslin Beach, S.A. 5170 Web: www.dysonwines.com E-mail: allan@dysonwines.com | |||||||||||||
GEMTREE BLOODSTONE TEMPRANILLO 2006Winemaker Mike BrownWinemakers NotesThe colour is brick red with a black hue. The nose: Black cherry, blueberry, leather, paprika, spicy meats, red currants, crème caramel, choc mint. A very old world style – looks more at home in Toro, Spain than Australia. Luscious front palate sweetness, dominated by blueberry and red currants with a hint of choc mint flavour. Mid to back palate sees classic Tempranillo chalky tannins that persist and make up the entire backbone of the wine. Cellar“Now to 2011.” Additional Notes“Tempranillo is a Spanish red grape variety prone to high vigour and large crops. The Tempranillo at Gemtree is planted in a Crabhole Gilgai soil that restricts root and water retention. Wonderful spring rains in 2005 set up our canopies for the hard part of the season – the ripening. Increased canopy means more leaves for sugar and tannin accumulation and acid retention. This is the 2006 vintage in a nutshell, the wines are very tight. Our fifth release of Bloodstone Tempranillo was vinified traditionally in open fermenters and basket pressed to retain the natural tannin balance. The 2006 shows tremendous structure and will appreciate some time in the cellar.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsNo Cellar Door. Phone: 08 8323 8199 Fax: 08 8323 7889 Address: PO Box 164, McLaren Vale, S.A., 5171. Web: www.gemtreevineyards.com.au E-mail: info@gemtreevineyards.com.au | |||||||||||||
GLAETZER WALLACE SHIRAZ GRENACHE 2006Winemakers Colin and Ben GlaetzerWinemakers NotesThe creation of Wallace in 2002 enabled us to fully utilise the magnificent 80-year-old Grenache vines that we had previously not blended. The 2006 Glaetzer Wallace is a wine greater than the sum of its parts – a fusion of Shiraz and Grenache, which is a typical, traditional blend in the Barossa Valley. Ripe, peppery old-vine Shiraz dominates and adds weight, texture and fleshy richness to the palate. The Grenache contributes sweet cherry, toffee and earthy characters. The clone we have access to is light in colour, almost rose like, yet provides a huge level of tannin extraction and therefore lends itself to blend with Shiraz. The Grenache provides mid-palate richness and a strawberry/cherry-like characteristic on the palate, and the Shiraz provides tightness and focus. Cellar“The 2006 will age well for 5 to 8 years.” Additional Notes“With our experience of old Barossa Valley Grenache, we know that it does not handle oak well. For this reason, we ferment and mature the Grenache component in stainless steel to keep the freshness and animation of the fruit. This blends well with the earthy Barossa Valley Shiraz characters. As with all Glaetzer wines; the key is balance, not maximum extraction.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8563 0288 Fax: 08 8563 0218 Open: Mon to Sat. 10 to 4 Address: 34 Barossa Valley Way, Tanunda, S.A, 5352. Web: www.glaetzer.com E-mail: glaetzer@glaetzer.com | |||||||||||||
HAMELIN BAY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005Winemaker Julian ScottWinemakers NotesA pink red hue surrounds a deep red centre. Lifted mint, red berry fruits and freshly rubbed herbs, with dried leather and mocha / cassis undertones fill the nose. The palate shows elegance and restraint, opening with a sweet fleshy front – palate and finishing with tight knit fine rustic tannins. Maturation in tight grained French Oak barriques gives this ‘Five Ashes’ terroir Cabernet a beautiful sweet flesh and structure. This wine is expected to age well in the bottle in the medium term, providing for improved mid – palate depth and softer tannins. Cellar“Suggested best 2008 to 2010. Suggested maximum 2013.” Additional Notes100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Five Ashes Vineyard in the Margaret River, this is a wine seen at the Haviland Wine Merchants Show earlier in the year. I liked it because of its ‘restrained’ nature. It isn’t the full throttle red wine style we see so much of now. The big extracted wines have their place, but this wine’s ‘elegance’ and subtlety is a welcome reminder of our ‘once red wines.’ AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone / Fax: 08 9758 6779 Open: Daily 10 to 5. Address: McDonald Road, Karridale, W.A., 6288. Web: www.hbwines.com.au E-mail: hbwines@hbwines.com.au | |||||||||||||
MONTGOMERY’S HILL CHARDONNAY 2005Winemaker Dianne MillerWinemakers NotesThis wine displays excellent fruit salad aromas and buttery flavours. A good clean, tight palate and concentrated flavours, including spicy nutmeg, that linger without being over-oaked. Suggested foods are: crab salad, salmon steaks, veal or chicken and rich cheesy dishes. Cellar“Will develop further complexity within 3 to 5 years bottle age, but drinks admirably well now.” Additional NotesIn the 2008 Wine Companion, James Halliday gave this wine a score of 94/100, saying: “Medium – bodied, cool grown white peach and melon, with gentle oak woven into the wine. Good length and aftertaste.” From Yarra Valley Wine Consultants Portfolio, the local Wholesaler: “Montgomery’s Hill aims to produce the highest quality wines from the Great Southern Region of Western Australia. The north facing. Steeply inclined vineyard is situated 15 km east of Albany on the banks of the Kaglan River, a unique and ideal viticultural setting.” There’s a lot being asked of this wine as it is stacked up against three very good ones in Dozens this year. A high standard, but I think it manages to hold its own. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 9844 3715 Fax: 08 9844 3819 Open: Daily 11 to 5. Address: South Coast Highway, Upper Kaglan, Albany, W.A., 6330. Web: www.montgomeryshill.com.au E-mail: montwine@iinet.net.au | |||||||||||||
O’DONOHOE’S FIND TOM’S DROP (Organic Mourvedre Shiraz) 2005Winemaker Michael O’DonohoeWinemakers NotesThere's something very spiritual about wine, so to speak. Get good grapes, small berries, and not too many bunches on the vine, pick them carefully by hand (leave the spider web bunches on the vine, that's his home!) cool them down before crushing and it would seem things are well on the way to getting a good wine. In good hand picked grapes, only grapes get into the crush. We do our best to mimic nature and use the wild indigenous yeasts on our grapes for fermentation, and as the sugars are converted, nature sees a fascinating array of intrinsic flavours develop which continue to develop and improve even after bottling for the health, good cheer and social discourse of people. CellarMedium term 5 to 8 years. Additional Notes“Michael O’Donohoe’s vineyard has been certified Level A organic since 1990. Infinitesimal watering, an absolute maximum of two tonnes per acre, and an obsession with maintaining a vineyard that’s a “polyculture of trees, vines, plants and creatures” gives us a hearty, characterful, beautifully balanced living red with a bouquet of cosmetics and cream as much as wild live berries. But they’re there: under that heady perfume, there’s a plump Christmas pudding of nuts and fruits. Sinuous, lithe, perfectly tannic: it’s a miracle.” Philip White, The Independent Weekly, November 24 – 30, 2007. There’s nothing I can say except the wine is 2005 and not as the label states. Michael is expecting new ones soon. All part of the fun of including this wine where there is no shortage of character outside the bottle either! AvailabilityPlease contact me or go to the web site Winery DetailsPhone: 0414 765 813 Fax: 08 8583 2228 No Cellar Door. Address: PO Box 460,Berri S.A., 5343. Web: www.tomsdrop.com.au | |||||||||||||
RUTHERGLEN ESTATES SANGIOVESE 2004Winemaker Nicole Esdaile & Ricky JamesWinemakers NotesWe harvest our Sangiovese fruit in several batches, at various stages of ripeness to obtain the maximum range of varietal characteristics. After crushing, all Sangiovese batches are ‘cold-soaked’ for 24 to 72 hours to allow the extraction of soft, juicy fruit characters and to maximise the supple texture of the wine. The batches are then fermented to dryness using spicy Italian yeasts. A combination of American and French oak maturation is used, and just before bottling the batches are blended together. Rutherglen is a very suitable region for Sangiovese, being warm enough to adequately ripen the variety, and in the best years producing juicy, yet elegant wines with varietal characters of strawberry, raspberry and savoury spice. CellarEnjoy now and over the next 3 to 5 years. Additional Notes“The Chianti grape in the middle of Australia? It’s not such an odd idea: Sangiovese has travelled the world with Italian immigrants similar to those who settled in the state of Victoria. This is more recognizably Sangiovese than some other Aussie versions, although it still packs a punch: rich berry fruit and hints of cherries, with oaky vanilla flavours cut by characteristic acid.” Andrew Neather, The London Evening Standard (UK), 1st June 2005. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6032 7999 Fax: 02 6032 7998 Open: Daily 10 to 4. Address: Corner Great Northern Road & Murray Valley Hwy Rutherglen, Victoria, 3685. Web: http://www.rutherglenestates.com.au E-mail: cellar@rutherglenestates.com.au | |||||||||||||
TIM ADAMS RIESLING 2006Winemaker Tim AdamsWinemakers NotesFollowing crushing, dejuicing and juice clarification, fermentation proceeded for two weeks at 12 – 14°C. The wine has been protein and cold stabilized to normal standards. Minimal sulphur dioxide has been used in the production of this wine. Only the first 500 litres per tonne of free run juice was used to make this premium Clare Valley Riesling. The result is a very intensely flavoured and aromatic wine. It has very lifted Riesling character with citrus aromatics of lime and lemon. The palate is seamless with moderate viscosity and brisk acid finish. Use as an aperitif or with any seafood. Cellar“Riesling wines from Clare Valley are most enjoyable when young and zesty, or when left to mature beyond five years of age. This wine has been sealed with screw cap to ensure its freshness and authenticity.” Additional NotesIt’s good to see so many good Rieslings around, which includes a few Orange ones seen recently, but when I read the following in the Winestock Portfolio it seemed the logical choice. “This year’s Hyatt Riesling Challenge attracted 458 entries from around the world, including 92 from Germany, the home of Riesling. Tim Adams 2006 Riesling took out the award for the best current – vintage Riesling, then backed up by winning the award for the best wine for the competition.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8842 2429 Fax: 08 8842 3550 Open: Daily 11 to 5. Address: Warenda Road, Clare, S.A., 5453. E-mail: pam@timadamswines.com.au | |||||||||||||
TRAFFORD HILL MONIQUE FAMILY RESERVE 2004Winemaker John SandersonWinemakers Notes80% Shiraz, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Grenache co-fermentation. The wine was basket pressed and after racking off, put into French and American barriques for 24 months. The bouquet immediately provides floral Grenache aromas then strong overtones of cassis, chocolate mint and vanilla appear as the wine opens up. The flavours on the palate show all the hallmarks of the premium grapes in the make up: spice, pepper, blackcurrants and soft forest fruits. Cellar“This wine can be enjoyed immediately with a little breathing or cellared confidently for a minimum of five years.” Additional NotesI must admit that as soon as this wine landed in Sydney I felt an urgent need to visit the “lock-up” in Arthur Daley fashion and get my mits on this wine. The last time seen, it was still in wood. As with previous Moniques at about 3 to 4 years of age, it is just charming, due in no small way to the Grenache. I rang John last night to tell him the wine arrived safely, all except for one bottle that simply vanished in my glass over a couple of nights. My report to the maker was that once again I think this is the time at which I must prefer his co-ferment, but I will defer a final decision indefinitely; at least until further research into Moniques and ‘Special Reserves’ is completed. His reaction to this was that he is happy with the wine and in a long lasting southern Yorkshire accent: “It were a bugger of a vintage though.” Very good. AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8558 3595 Open: Thursday – Monday P/H 10.30 to 5 Address: Lot 1 Bower Road, Normanville, S.A., 5204. E-mail: traffordhill@ozemail.com.au | |||||||||||||
WITCHMONT SHIRAZ 2004Winemakers Tony Ramunno and Steve GoodwinWinemakers NotesThe colour is deep vibrant red while on the nose there is pepper, spice and rich red berry. The palate is medium weight with vanillin oak, berry fruit flavours and soft tannins. This is a well rounded Shiraz with great complexity. Cellar“Up to 10 years.” Additional Notes“An excellent season with an extended Autumn ripening period resulted in fully ripe fruit with intense and complex flavours. The grapes were crushed and destemmed into stainless fermenters with SO 2 addition and inoculated with a proven clean fermenting yeast. Ferments were allowed to reach 30°C + in order to extract maximum colour and flavour. The wine was matured in French and American oak barriques for 14 months prior to bottling.” Again at Haviland Wine Merchant Show, this wine played a peripheral role, as the choice was between the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Cabernet Merlot, the latter being included mainly because of it being more approachable at the time. The Shiraz was a possibility down the track. Since then, as Paul Sanderson told me it was ninth in the Winestate Magazine Shiraz Challenge. (For interest sake Grange 2002 was eighth). Havilands is running out of the 2004 and by now, may have done so. And that is why it was hurried in. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 03 9747 1188 Fax: 03 9747 1066 Open: Wednesday to Sunday 10 to 5. Address: 557 Leakes Road, Rockbank, Victoria, 3335. Web: www.witchmont.com.au E-mail: cellar@witchmont.com.au |
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