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The Classic May Dozen

Amherst Chinese Garden Cabernet Sauvignon 2003Lindsays Hilltops Merlot 2004
Belgravia Collection Rousanne 2005Mandurang Valley Shiraz 2003
Bethany Barossa Grenache 2004Pauletts Polish Hill River Cabernet Merlot 2002
Canobolas-Smith Shiraz 2004Ralph Fowler Mount Benson Shiraz 2003
Capercaillie ‘The Cuillin’ Chardonnay 2005Staete Landt Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Cardinham Clare Valley Riesling 2004Trafford Hill Limited Release Red 2002

AMHERST CHINESE GARDEN CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2003

Winemaker Graeme Jukes

Winemakers Notes

The wine is medium red in the core with the edge lightening, showing some development. This wine exhibits lifted, sweet cassis fruit on the nose. The palate shows good varietal character with savoury tannins providing structure while the cassis and blackcurrant flavours that fill out the wine.

Cellar

Cellar for up to five years.

Additional Notes

I saw this wine in January and thought it would be put to good use in this Dozen. I read in Halliday’s Wine Companion 2006 that this wine ‘needs time,’ a note that was made close to a year ago now, as the book usually comes out for sale in the second half of the year. The point being that the tannins are integrating well into the wine by now. Owner Norman Jones had a lot to do with the making of this wine as well as growing the grapes with wife Elizabeth. He wanted to go back to making more elegant wines as in the past. Concentrating more on fruit ripeness as he put it and less of the seed ripeness that return much higher alcohol wines, wines that the marketers think we all want! (Graeme Jukes is winemaker at Pyrenees Ridge).

Availability

Cellar Door or please contact me.

Winery Details

Phone: 03 5463 2105

Fax: 03 5463 2502

Open: Weekends & Public Holidays 10 to 5

Address: Talbot – Avoca Road, Amherst, Victoria, 3371.

E-mail: amherstwinery@bigpond.com

Web: www.amherstwinery.com

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BELGRAVIA COLLECTION ROUSANNE 2005

Winemakers David Lowe and Jane Wilson

Winemakers Notes

A particular favourite of our vineyard manager, Mark, this is the first Rousanne to be bottled under the Belgravia label. Rousanne is a thick-skinned grape; and whole bunch pressing and ultra cool fermentation have tamed the natural phenolics of this variety. Powerfully perfumed with pears, quince and mown hay. The palate has a typical mineral undertone and textured finish nicely balanced by a touch of oak.

Cellar

Nothing is mentioned in the Notes, but the Oxford Companion says that with “its haunting aroma,” and acidity Rousanne can age gracefully. And very enjoyable now.

Additional Notes

The usual enquiry: ‘have you seen anything interesting lately?’ made to Justin from Canobolas-Smith in Orange brought a recommendation to try the Belgravia Rousanne. The Viognier 2003 Viognier was in the February 2004 Dozen. Belgravia is a fairly large property just to the north of Orange where a portion of grapes is dedicated to the Belgravia label. The wine is made by Lowe Family Winemakers in Mudgee, and it used to be distributed by Vintners (Sydney and Melbourne). The big news is Belgravia now has a Cellar Door at the old Union Bank building in Orange. All good news; and the wine is just as Justin said: ‘a great drink.’

Availability

Available to Retail.

Cellar Door Details

Phone: 02 6361 4441

Contact: Sophie Hanson 0400 032 326

Address: Sale Street Orange NSW, 2800.

E-mail: sophie.hanson@belgravia.com.au

Web: www.unionbank.com.au

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Bethany Barossa Grenache 2004

Winemakers Geoff and Robert Schrapel

Winemakers Notes

Made solely from premium quality fruit harvested late in the season from old vines in the Barossa (average age 60 years). Extended fermentation on skins for 10 days to maximise colour and flavour extraction. The pressings are added back into the wine after fermentation to balance the tannins. Matured in older oak for six months to balance tannin structure, leaving the dominant ripe berry fruit characters. A pleasant easy drinking style, with a most attractive crimson colour and loads of flavour. The bouquet is filled with varietal red berry fruit characters. The palate is well rounded in tannin structure with an abundance of raspberry - slightly earth flavours. An ideal antipasto wine and especially enjoyable with all lamb dishes – roast rack or marinated shoulder. (From the Notes and back label)

Cellar

Now and over the next three to four years.

Additional Notes

After many generations of growing grapes in the Barossa, the fifth and current carers established a winery in 1977. I was looking for a wine with specific attributes to finish this Dozen off. While talking to the local agent about the Ralph Fowler wines, this Grenache was mentioned. Lost on me at first, it later returned to mind with the thought of how the locals love these Barossa relics and the wines they produce. So I went to a local generic outlet and made the purchase, and the fact that the wine is such good value, it easily covered all requirements.

Availability

Available to Retail.

Winery Details

Phone: 08 8563 2099

Fax: 08 8563 0046

Open: Monday to Saturday 10 to 5; Sunday 1 to 5

Address: Bethany Road, Bethany via Tanunda S.A., 5352.

E-mail: bethany@bethany.com.au

Web: www.bethany.com.au

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CANOBOLAS-SMITH SHIRAZ 2004

Winemaker Murray Smith

Winemakers Notes

This is the second release from the Strawhouse Vineyard (there was no 2003). The winemaking department was so pleased with the result it is labelled in the classic Canobolas-Smith blue label. The wine, which had 18 months in barrel, is 90% Shiraz and 10% Merlot with a dark red colour. The nose is already quite rich and alive with Shiraz spice and some hints of oak. The palate backs this up with almost ‘Cotes du Rhone’ spice and some nice Merlot roundness giving a very satisfying full-bodied red.

Cellar

Drink now with improvement over the next 3 to 5 years.

Additional Notes

It was only August last year that the 2002 version was in the Dozens, under the yellow Strawhouse label. The recent phone call to Justin referred to in the Belgravia Notes also brought up the availability of this, the first fully blown blue labelled Canobolas-Smith Shiraz. This is a significant decision, one that I was unaware of during the phone call, but when I saw it in the flesh my expectations were sharpened and soon satisfied. As a reminder, the vineyard was established in 1987, and the 2004 wine is the first ‘blue’ on parade, enjoy.

Availability

Cellar Door or please contact me.

Winery Details

Phone /Fax: 02 6563 6113

Open: Weekends 11 to 5.

Address: Boree Lane, off Cargo Road, Orange, NSW, 2800.

E-mail: Canobolas.smith@netwit.net.au

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CAPERCAILLIE ‘THE CUILLIN’ CHARDONNAY 2005

Winemakers Alasdair Sutherland & Daniel Binet

Winemakers Notes

The 2005 vintage in the Hunter has been widely acclaimed as a beauty for its flavoursome, balanced white wines. Once again, our own vineyard produced clean, ripe Chardonnay with good natural acidity, despite the heat we experienced through the month of January. The trials we have conducted over the past few years have steered us toward a small Burgundian cooperage for the majority of our Chardonnay barrels and the 2005 Cuillin was fermented and matured primarily in this oak. We are very pleased with this marriage of fruit character and oak but still firmly believe in allowing the varietal aromatics and flavours to stand out.

Cellar

5 to 8 years.

Additional Notes

While on the lookout for an established Chardonnay of quality for this Dozen, as is the way, I came across Alasdair’s in a write up in the most recent April Winewise magazine (April Volume 22 No.1). The last Capercaillie wines were in February 2003, with a Profile, so it is well overdue and a wake-up reminder in the form of a “Highly Recommended” rating which reads as follows: “A very classy Chardonnay of complexity, substance and texture. There’s a hint of matchstick character, and the classy oak provides structure for the nectarine fruit.” The Winewise panel acknowledges the oak effort, something I’m sure is noted by the makers.

Availability

Cellar Door or please contact me.

Winery Details

Phone: 02 4990 2904

Fax: 02 4991 1886

Open: Daily 10 to 5.

Address: 4 Londons Road, Lovedale, NSW 2325.

E-mail: capercaille@hunterlink.com.au

Web: www.capercailliewine.com.au

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CARDINHAM CLARE VALLEY RIESLING 2004

Winemakers Scott Smith & Emma Bowley

Winemakers Notes

The colour is yellow cut straw with green tints. The nose is delicate with lifted hints of tropical fruit and floral tones. On the palate, this wine shows classic citrus flavours traditionally linked with Clare Riesling. Lime characters dominating the palate and lemon zest creating a genuine balance. There is crisp acid through the palate, albeit slightly softer than in previous years and the finish is tight and clean.

Cellar

The Stelvin closure will continue to capture the freshness of the wine for many years. Drink the wine young in the first 18 months and then leave it alone for five to seven years, it will be worth it. (From their Web Page).

Additional Notes

Being 2006, to drink it now is a little outside the recommendation in the first part, but some rules are meant to be broken! While delivering the last Dozen I was asked if there were any Riesling this time, February. I told Lou, no, but I would be on the lookout for a good one. I have been delivering this one, again to some notable restaurants, which is ‘usually’ a good sign. What also caught the eye is that Cardinham was established in 1980 as a family company, and generally has remained so. It certainly looks like a Cellar Door to visit sooner rather than later.

Availability

Available to Retail.

Winery Details

Phone: 08 8842 1955

Fax: 08 8842 1955

Open: Daily 10 to 5

Address: Main North Road, Stanley Flat S.A., 5453

E-mail: cardvit@bigpond.com

Web: www.cardinham.com

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LINDSAYS HILLTOPS MERLOT 2004

Winemaker Jill Lindsay

Winemakers Notes

This is not the average commercial Merlot. A slightly subdued nose is overpowered by rich stone fruit palate of plums, and, the typical cherry flavours associated with Hilltops grown ‘ Bordeaux’ varieties.

Cellar

It is a wine which can be consumed and enjoyed now, but will reward patient cellaring without punishing the impetuous.

Additional Notes

It was two years ago when I spoke to Phill Lindsay about this Merlot, their first. He was quite excited and I remember him saying he’d never seen anything like it. Big and brooding already, they wondered how it would travel the time line. In early February this year just as vintage was looming on this drought stricken vineyard Jill pulled out a newly bottled Shiraz, the one they were doing sulphur trials on, on my last visit some months prior. Very happy with it, she said it would improve with a few months settling in the bottle. At the same time Phill pulled out a bottle of the Merlot, and I brought them both home. Half expecting to ask for the Shiraz, I thought I would try the Merlot, and wow, what a message…..a serious wine. Merlot please Phill this time, and we’ll let the Shiraz have a little more time. I ask for winemaking notes for each wine, something which goes without saying really, but every now and then a gem comes out of space.

Availability

Cellar Door or please contact me.

Winery Details

Phone / Fax: 02 6382 2972

Open: Daily 9 to 5

Address: Cowra Road, Young, NSW, 2594.

E-mail: lindsay5@bigpond.com

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MANDURANG VALLEY SHIRAZ 2003

Winemaker Wes Vine

Winemakers Notes

The excellent purple colour signals a complex, full-bodied wine displaying ripe fruit characters in the bouquet. The wine is well-balanced with concentrated fruit characters and soft tannins evident on the palate. It has had 12 months in new and seasoned French and American oak barriques, which has provided further complexity.

Cellar

This wine, although drinking well now, will cellar for at least five years.

Additional Notes

“The Vine family first planted grapes on their 1.6 ha farm at Mandurang (Bendigo Region) in 1976. Home grown, hand picked, estate vintaged and bottled, a true family winery and vineyard with two generations involved in the daily running of the winery and property. Wes and son Steve have a passion for making clean wines where concentrated fruit flavours take priority.” Taken from the accompanying notes in the local Distributor’s Portfolio. Mandurang Valley wines is a new entry, and I asked Anne Pettigrove about them. “We only have good wines, you know that Mark.” ‘Yes,’ was my reply, but I told her I couldn’t see much in the books, and that many of us have good memories of Bendigo Shiraz wines. “Enough of this friendly jousting,” I said, “I am one of the faithful, lets use it.” I think the Staete Landt notes helps underline the ‘faith.’

Availability

Available to Retail.

Winery Details

Phone: 03 5439 5367

Fax: 03 5439 3850

Open: Weekends and Public Holidays 11 to 5

Address: 77 Fadersons Lane, Mandurang, Victoria, 3551.

E-mail: info@mandurangvalleywines.com.au

Web: www.mandurangvalleywines.com.au

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PAULETTS POLISH HILL RIVER CABERNET MERLOT 2002

Winemakers Neil and Matthew Paulett

Winemakers Notes

82% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Merlot, the wine is deep crimson. The wine, made in a fruit driven style shows intense berry and plum flavours with just a touch of French oak character. On the palate it is extremely elegant yet intense with all components integrated and offering very good young drinking but with the potential to live many years. Full palate with good richness and generosity and displays the textural softness that has become the hallmark of our reds.

Cellar

With well integrated oak, this wine is approachable now but has the structure to age for 6 – 8 years under good cellaring conditions.

Additional Notes

“This very much vaunted vintage was ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon in the Clare Valley and the wine is very consistent with our house style.” This extract is also from the ‘Winemaker’s Notes’. And it is exactly what I was looking for: anything from the 2002 Vintage is a likely suspect for here. I noticed a very good write up in ‘Epicure in The Age’ 12-July-2005 as a new release. Also, we see rivers of Shiraz and pioneer varietals, none of which you’d ignore, but it seemed like a good idea to see a lovely wine of a style that is probably one of our classics.

Availability

Available to Retail.

Winery Details

Phone: 08 8843 4328

Fax: 08 8843 4202

Open: Daily 10 to 5

Address: Polish Hill Road, Polish Hill River, South Australia, 5453.

E-mail: paulwine@rbe.net.au

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RALPH FOWLER MOUNT BENSON SHIRAZ 2003

Winemaker Sarah Squires (Fowler)

Winemakers Notes

This wine has been produced from our own estate and is a limited production single vineyard wine. Only 6000 bottles were made. The Shiraz vineyard is cane pruned to limit production to 2 tonne to the acre and trained on a lyre trellis to ensure the fruit ripens with maximum flavour. Partial root zone drying, hand picking, open fermenters and basket pressing are all part of the hand crafting of the wine and contribute to its quality. The 2003 vintage was a cool year and the wines are more herbal and fruity. The vintage conditions were good and crop levels returned to average after the disastrously low harvests of 2002. Traditional open fermentation with gentle hand plunging, soft basket pressing and 12 months maturation in French oak barriques have produced a wine with richness and strength but also with soft and elegant structure. The wine is distinctly cool climate, with savoury and pepper characters. The palate is complex and layered with leather and earthy characters and a background of roasted cashew like oak.

Cellar

A powerful and structured wine that will improve markedly with bottle age, developing character and aroma and softening further on the palate.

Additional Notes

I’ve been waiting for a while to get a Ralph Fowler wine in here after delivering some to local restaurants. I knew of Ralph Fowler by name only as a Tyrrell's winemaker in the 1970s and wonder why more of these Limestone Coast wines aren’t in the van.

Availability

Available to Retail.

Winery Details

Phone: 08 8768 5000

Fax: 08 8768 5008

Open: Daily 10 to 5.

Address: Limestone Coast Road, Mount Benson S.A., 5275.

E-mail: rfwine@ralphfowlerwines.com.au

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STAETE LANDT MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005

Winemaker Ruud Maasdam

Winemakers Notes

A complex and intensely aromatic Sauvignon Blanc: This wine is perfumed with aromas of passion fruit and gooseberries. In the mouth the wine is full bodied with real concentration of flavour and aroma, a passionfruit character is dominant but this is backed by subtle dry grass like flavours with creamy almost nutty complexity and a crisp ripe attractive acidity.

Cellar

This is a wine for drinking whilst young but has the substance and concentration to develop well over two to five years once the primary fruit flavours have subsided.

Additional Notes

“The Staete Landt Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc is planted in six different blocks. We pick the different blocks separately as soon as they reach ripeness to give us different component wines. This gives us a spread of wines with different structures and flavour. The first picks were to retain a slight herbaceousness combined with intensity and vivacity of aroma and that zingy acidity that is the hallmark of good Sauvignon. The later picks were to provide the weight and tropical fruit concentration that we aim for in our Sauvignon Blanc.” The first Staete Landt wine was the Chardonnay 2003 in November last year. Since then, in my day job I have started to deliver a significantly larger amount their wine to up-market restaurants in particular. To the faith issue, Yarra Valley Wine Consultants supported what they knew to be a good prospect, simply good wines.

Availability

Available to Retail.

Winery Details

Phone: 03 572 9886

Fax: 03 572 9887

Open: Daily.

Address: 48 Jeffries Road, RD2, Rapaura, Marlborough N.Z.

E-mail: wine@staetelandt.co.nz

Web: www.staetelandt.co.nz

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TRAFFORD HILL LIMITED RELEASE RED 2002

Winemaker John Sanderson

Winemakers Notes

Vintaged from our five acre vineyard on the Southern Fleurieu Peninsula from 85% Shiraz, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Grenache, this wine reflects the traditional methods by which it is made. Hand picked, open fermented, basket pressed with final malolactic fermentation in top quality American and French oak barriques. It was then matured for three years in the oak vessels before lightly filtered and bottled in November 2005. Deep purple in colour with subtle oak and cassis bouquets up front, followed floral and earthy ‘mushroom’ overtones as the wine gathers up the oxygen it has been denied so long. The palate is initially dominated by vanillin oak then the ‘mushroom’ earthiness comes through with typical Shiraz pepper and spice characteristics.

Cellar

This wine is as smooth as silk, perfectly balanced and ready to drink now, after careful decanting to eliminate the crust formed during bottle maturation. “It can also be cellared with confidence for the next three years or so.” John’s last words “ENJOY IT.”

Additional Notes

You may remember the Limited Release Red 2001 in August 2004. Some will easily do so as it was such a popular wine. This, the 2002 has been due here for some time now, and at last it has arrived. It is the three years in wood version of the Monique Family Blend (November 2005).

AVAILABILITY

Cellar Door or please contact me.

Winery Details

Phone: 08 8558 3595

Open: Thursday – Monday, Public Holidays 10.30 to 5

Address: Lot 1 Bower Road, Normanville, S.A., 5204.

E-mail: traffordhill@ozemail.com.au

Web: www.traffordhillwines.com.au

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