Small Winemakers Tasting Dozens |
| The Classic February DozenBM DOVETAIL BAROOTA SHIRAZ 2002Winemakers Rolf Binder and Kevin MitchellWinemaker's NotesDeep red brick in colour. The nose is lifted ripe plum fruits with coffee and vanillin oak support. It is both complex and intensely flavoured. A generous and flavoursome palate, plum and coffee flavours with a rich, sweet fruit mid palate and lingering tannins, the Baroota Shiraz combines all things expected in a premium Shiraz wine. The long barrel maturation period and careful fruit selection resulting in a complex, integrated and rewarding combination. CellarThis wine should peak between 5 - 12 years. Additional Notes"This is the first collaboration between Rolf Binder of Veritas- Barossa Valley and Kevin Mitchell of Kilikanoon - Clare Valley to bear their joint names. There is a growing consensus that the Southern Flinders Ranges is the 'Next Big Thing' in Australian wine. The area centred on Baroota is about 100 km north of the Clare Valley between Spencer Gulf and the Flinders Ranges proper. It is flat and quite hot and dry, but Mediterranean type breezes cool it down in the evenings and there is plenty of clean underground water. Grapes ripen early, typically February, but may be as early as January. The style of the region and wine is big and full flavoured. This wine was created by traditional methods of vinification, open fermentation, gentle pressing and 22 months maturation in American and French oak hogsheads before being bottled without filtration." AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone / Fax: 08 8843 4377 Open: Weekends and Public Holidays 11 to 5. Address: Kilikanoon, Penna Lane, Penwortham, South Australia, 5453. CAPRICORNIA BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ 2002Winemakers: Various under the direction of Troy KalleskeWinemaker's NotesThis wine is dense with a black heart and has a lovely ruby scarlet hue. The aromas of minty oak, plums, prunes, liquorice / anise evolve out of the glass; these are underpinned with white pepper and savoury spice with hints of dried apricots a hallmark of classic Barossa Shiraz. The palate is soft and silky with obvious sweet ripe fruit mid palate, demonstrating what a wonderful vintage 2002 was in the Barossa. The plums, prunes, anise and mint are all there with the hallmark dried apricot in the distance but evident. The tannins are fine and silky smooth a result of the oak treatment and maturation prior to bottling. There is some warmth on the back palate. CellarThe wine opens up well in the bottle over a couple of days and can be cellared over 5-8 years the acid levels suggest it could last longer. Additional Notes"A blend from a number of Barossa vineyards average age approximately 25 years. Capricornia is a negotiant brand for wines of quality true to their variety and region. This debut release Barossa Shiraz from the great 2002 vintage sets the standard for Capricornia." Troy Kalleske will take on the winemaking full-time for these wines. I thought this 'debut' was too good to leave out. To the future. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 0409 339 599 Fax: 08 8562 8118 Not open to the public Address: Vinegrove Road, Greenock, South Australia, 5360. CRABTREE CENTINA'S GAZE TEMPRANILLO 2003Winemaker Robert CrabtreeWinemaker's NotesTotally opaque black crimson colour. Perfumed nose of dark cherry, strawberry and violets. The palate is generous, medium bodied with a very spicy white pepper flavour followed by black cherry and spice. Five months is new French oak this wine has perfect balance followed by a long cherry liquorice aftertaste. CellarMade to enjoy now and over the next couple of years. Additional Notes"Tempranillo is the great grape of Rioja and Navarra in north central Spain- a land of harsh grandeur with wet winters and very dry summers, very comparable to the climate of Clare. When the opportunity arose to acquire some Tempranillo rootlings from Clare Valley Vine Improvement Society, I jumped at the chance. They seem to have taken to their new surroundings very well and are fulfilling all the promise we optimistically believed in. We got small crops in 2001 and 2002, but 2003 was the first serious year of mature vines, and the first to be bottled." "Growing like Triffids" were Robert's words when I asked how his new plantings were going. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8843 0069 Fax: 08 8843 0144 Open: Monday to Saturday 11 to 5 Address: North Terrace, Watervale, South Australia, 5452. GIBSON LOOSE END GSM 2004Winemaker Rob GibsonWinemaker's NotesFermented in static fermenters and macerated on skins for a further 8 days. Pressings were recombined and the wine was matured in tank with French oak planks. Medium purple red, lifted floral aromas with hints of cherry and stewed plum. The palate shows lively cherry berry fruit flavours balanced with good acidity and very fine tannin structure. The wine finishes dry with lingering berry flavours. Cellar"This wine is very approachable now and will suit a wide range of cuisine." Additional Notes"2004 was a good average Barossa season being slightly warm in November and December but very cool in January. Yields were high and styles were more elegant. The expression of varietal flavours in Grenache and Merlot were very good." This is one of the wines on show at Nicholas Gibsons place, and is a blend of not only Grenache (39%), Shiraz (35%), Mourvedre (Mataro 4%) but also Merlot at 22%. Once poured, there was a wonderful waft of fresh cherries before the rest of the fruit characters caught your nose's eye. Another terrific Loose End. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8562 3193 Fax: 08 8562 4490 Open: Friday to Monday 11 to 5 Address: Willows Road, Light Pass, S.A., 5355. E-mail: rob.gibson@barossavale.com Web: www.barossavale.com HANGMANS GULLY CHARDONNAY 2003Winemaker Enrique DiazWinemaker's NotesThis Chardonnay presents brilliant clarity with good depth in colour and subtle golden hues. Fruity varietal and strong regional characters are dominant in this wine. This vintage is distinguished by a medium palate with lingering long lasting aftertaste. Extra complexity was added by 12 month ageing in French oak. Selected barrels of Vosges, Allier & Troncais were used in equal proportion to store the wine in our cellar before bottling. Super balance between fruit flavour and acidity in this premium wine. CellarDrinking well now. If cellaring the wine medium term 5-6 years. Additional Notes"One of the driest seasons on record, during 2002/3 the vines showed an extraordinary capability of survival under stressful conditions. Water reserves on the main dam were used for frost protection during spring, and the rest left was used for minimal irrigation at fruit setting stage. From Jan 03 onwards the vines relied on their own reserves and the fruit ripened on dry roots. Hand-harvested 7th March 2003, one week earlier than usual, Chardonnay yields were very low. Bunches and berries were smaller than usual, while the intensity of the fruit flavour was superior to most seasons. Fermented in enclosed stainless steel tank, with strict temperature control the fruit juice (earthy, thick with a soft and silky texture) was first settled overnight and fermented off-lees. The total volume of the wine has undergone malo-lactic fermentation." AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone / Fax: 03 5465 3542 Open: Daily 10 to 5. Address: 5434 Sunraysia Highway, Lamplough, Victoria, 3352. E-mail: post@stignatiusvineyard.com.au Web: www.stignatiusvineyard.com.au HANGMANS GULLY SHIRAZ 2002Winemaker Enrique DiazWinemaker's NotesThis Shiraz has a deep purple hue and lifted aromatics full of dark fruits, subtle spice, oak influences and a hint of regional eucalyptus. The palate is flavour-packed, showing pure varietal Shiraz fruit, good weight and firm tannins. CellarExtremely friendly, is drinking well now and will cellar well for many years. Additional Notes"Initial fruit assessment showed fewer bunches than usual but of good general appearance and very evenly ripened. The foliage has suffered dramatic changes in the weather conditions through a long difficult season. Hand-harvested 28th April 2002 Shiraz yield were very low. The season was characteristic for a windy and relatively wet spring coming from a totally dry winter in 2001. December 2001, January and February 2002 were mild and dry months with only a few days of temperatures above 30 :C. From mid-March to mid-April it was a change in the weather to warmer than usual conditions, and this allowed the fruit to ripen nicely. Fermented in open tanks, hand-plunged and stored in American oak for 12 months before bottling." AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone / Fax: 03 5465 3542 Open: Daily 10 to 5. Address: 5434 Sunraysia Highway, Lamplough, Victoria, 3352. E-mail: post@stignatiusvineyard.com.au Web: www.stignatiusvineyard.com.au HAREWOOD ESTATE LATE HARVEST RIESLING 2004Winemaker James KellieWinemaker's NotesA lively, rich nose displaying tropical passionfruit, lemons and limes and some perfumed, floral notes. The richness of the nose follows onto the palate. An elegant combination of ripe tropical fruits, lemons and limes, with a refreshing balanced finish of grape sugars and minerally citrus acids. CellarThis wine has the elements for medium term cellaring. On the other hand, drink it fresh and young with spicy dishes. Additional NotesWarning Warning This wine retains residual sugar sweetness, and together with the quality of the fruit, they were tipping the balance for its inclusion. I remember making a note in November about being uncomfortable including a wine described as"Classic White." Of course that was also a James Kellie wine. There's a problem somewhere I will have to overcome. The most recent visit to a Nicholas Gibson's wine show had him singing the praises of many wines, a number of which are included here. It's great to get closer to more winemakers and get an idea if what they're up to. I didn't think this style would be included, ever! Recognising my mistake, I heard Nick's words:"great with Thai food." Now for the reds. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 9840 9078 Fax: 08 9840 9053 Open: Daily 10 to 4 Address: Scotsdale Road, Denmark, Western Australia, 6333. LIEBICHWEIN LOFTY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2002Winemaker Ron LiebichWinemaker's NotesExhibits deep dark violet, blackberry fruit nuances, intensified and enhanced by the extremely low yield of0.75 tonne per acre, the late picking (15.5 degrees Baume) and one of the best seasons ever. Ten months maturation in various aged French oak barrels has perfectly balanced the seductive fruit. Cellar"This wine can be enjoyed early or aged up to 20 years." Additional NotesGeneral winemaking practice for this label as per Web Page. "As well as the low yield from dead arm affliction, the intensity of flavour is enhanced by the non clonal vineyard, the mixed clone producing wild variations among the vines in berry size and quantity of fruit. The fruit is picked at around 14 .5 degrees Baume (15.5) for optimum ripeness. This traditionally vintaged (hand plunged, basket pressed), unfiltered wine, exhibits deep dark violet, blackberry fruit nuances, intensified and enhanced by the extremely low yields of CW's Block. Planted in 1969. A recent memorable tasting of the 2000; a phone call to Janet on another subject, and she suggested the 2002 Lofty for the February Dozen has it here. Generally, this wine has rated well by the writers. Mr Parker gave it91/100... certainly his kind of wine. The booming alcohol levels generally, divide a lot of us and I tend to have second thoughts on opening wines with higher content. Perhaps its Cabernet Sauvignon, but this is subtlety on a grand scale. AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone / Fax: 08 8524 4543 Open: Daily 11 to 5. Ring first on weekdays Address: Steingarten Road, Rowland Flat, South Australia, 5352. E-mail: info@liebichwein.com.au MILLTON TE ARAI VINEYARD CHENIN BLANC 2003Winemaker James MilltonWinemaker's NotesThe wine is made up of several selections of hand picked grapes, all gently pressed and allowed to ferment in French oak barrels. The young wine sat on lees until September and was then prepared for bottling. The aromas are of waxy pears and white pepper, a rich fruity palate, well structured wood and acid balance and a lingering finish of cloves and honey. Cellar"Superb drinking now, and will develop with careful cellaring up to 10 years." Additional NotesAs a reminder, and from their notes: "Chenin Blanc is a unique variety with an array of crisp fruit characters, which develop into intensive harmony with age. At its origins in France it is the basis of the powerful wines from the Loire River where the silt / limestone soils and Atlantic Ocean influence the individual style of wine. At Millton, close to the South Pacific Ocean, we choose the French style of production." The 2001 appeared first in the February 2003 all-white Dozen, and then for all in white, the 2002 was in the August 2003 mix. There has been positive feedback for all the Millton wines. We live in a world intent on bestowing awards, which can be a little worrying. I hesitate, but according to Paul from Haviland, whom in this instance I would believe first when it comes to rating the wine, told me recently that this wine won the 'Best Chenin Blanc' in the world at the San Francisco Wine Show. And at the recent New Zealand Wine Show in Sydney, the 2004 wowed the crowd. Something to think about for the upcoming release. AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone: +64 6 862 8680 Fax: +64 6 862 8869 Open: By appointment Address: 119 Papatu Road, Manutuke, Gisborne, New Zealand. E-mail: info@millton.co.nz Web: www.millton.co.nz PARINGA RIVERLAND CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2002Winemaker Mike FarmiloWinemaker's NotesThis is a wine made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon fruit grown on eight year old vines in the Riverland. After the'hottest' vintage in 2001, vintage 2002 was the coolest in memory, becoming very hot again toward the end. The wine exhibits saturated ruby purple colour along with classic nose of crhme de cassis earth and spice box, complex, rich and chewy, rich infruit. CellarIt will drink well for three or four years. Additional NotesThere was no need to try this exceptional value wine again atNick's place. As I mentioned in November at the inclusion of the Shiraz 2002 for that Dozen, I would buy a case of the Cabernet for myself for Christmas. I did just that, and either gave away bottles or shared them each time with the intention of gaugingpeople's reaction. It was all very positive. Once again I note that this is a big production wine in the order of 25,000 cases for 2002, but its wonderful value, simply stunning quality makes it a must for here. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. For stockists TheWine Partnership Ph. 02 9453 3692 or contact me. TAIT BASKET PRESS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2002Winemakers Bruno TaitWinemaker's Notes"The Barossa fruit we use is always very low yielding and produces highly concentrated flavours and aromas. We use traditional winemaking methods including open fermentation, extended maceration and basket pressing. The colour is deep blood red and has a bright blackberry and bitter chocolate aroma mixed in with a touch of herb. The mouth feel is alive with flavours of sweet dark berries and currants along some spicy oak notes and soft fine grainedtannins." (Taken from the back label). CellarWill develop easily up to 10 years and more. Additional NotesIn reference to the cellaring, it probably is a fifteen years plus proposition. Ironically Parker gives this wine the same score as the Liebichwein Lofty, from the same year, being 91/100. And he also rates it a 10- 15 year wine. At Nick's tasting, this wine had been opened at least a day, and being a Cabernet Sauvignon anyway, it stood apart from the more populous Shiraz wines. It certainly benefits from plenty of airing time. Also, the price hike of Barossa Shiraz generally hasn't been as regular a burden on Cabernet Sauvignon from there. And finally it was able to be squeezed into the budget for February. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8524 5000 Fax: 08 8524 5220 Open: Weekends 11 to 5 Address: Yaldara Drive, Lyndoch, South Australia, 5351. E-mail: tait@taitwines.com.au Web: www.taitwines.com.au THE GORGE PINOT GRIGIO 2OO4Winemaker David HookWinemaker's NotesThe Pinot Grigio grapes were gently whole bunch pressed without crushing to minimize solids and bitterness from the skins and to accentuate the fruit characters. The juice was cold settled for a day, inoculated with a neutral yeast and fermented for three weeks at cool 12 -15 degrees C, and stored on lees for three months prior to bottling. Sweet aromas of melon and tangerines with a touch of spice and flint. The wine is well balanced between fruitiness and acidity. The flavour is distinctive, complex, crisp andlively. CellarThis wine is ideal for early consumption. Additional NotesThe Gorge 2003 Pinot Grigio was in the February 2004 all-white Dozen. At the time it was a tip from Ian Hunt whom I have known since 1973, and I have never heard him recommend a wine I didn't enjoy. The Lindeman twins 3100 and 3110 are well preserved in the memory. The Gorge and Pothana wines are made at Pothana Vineyards at Belford in the Lower Hunter Valley."Pinot Grigio in the warmer climate of the Hunter Valley tends to produce wines which are generally light bodied, lean with spritzy flavours with a crispacidity." As Nicholas Gibson pointed out recently, planted in 1989, they are probably among the oldest in the Country. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery InformationPhone: 02 6574 7164 Fax: 02 6574 7209 Open: By appointment Address: Pothana Lane, Belford, NSW, 2335. E-mail: hook@hunterlink.net.au |
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