SWTD February 2025
Small batches of grapes are gently crushed and then transferred to open fermenters. Foot treading is undertaken two thirds of the way through fermentation, the wine is basket pressed and transferred to old French oak to complete fermentation and mature. The barrel ferments are aged on lees, and there is no racking until final blending. The wine does not undertake fining or filtration prior to bottling. Bright ruby red. Lifted aromas of red cherries, cranberries and red plums, with a hint of bouquet garni. Generous red fruits with a slight savouriness on the palate, rounded out with complex graphite tannins. An elegant and complex example with loads of flavour and interest.
“Medium term of five to eight years.”
“The preceding winter was beautifully wet, flushing the soil of salts and filling it with profile. Spring was also wetter than average, with rainfall continuing until November, which was almost completely dry. November was hotter than normal, upsetting the setting of berries – just as well, as the bunch number was way up. Two inches of rain in February was much appreciated by the relatively large crop. The heat produced rapid flowering, set and berry development, leading to an early véraison (berries change colour to black) and the equal earliest start to vintage on record.”
Available to Retail.
Web: www.darenberg.com.au
Phone: 08 8329 488
Open: Daily 10.30 to 4.30.
Address: Osborn Road, McLaren Vale, S.A., 5171.
Hand harvested and whole fruit pressed to extract the finest and freshest juice for fermentation in French oak barriques, 50% new and 50% once used. The Malolactic fermentation completed over 18 months of maturation in oak, and the occasional stirring of the yeast’s lees builds texture and refreshes the palate. This extended barrel residence also facilitates the integration of wine and oak. The wine is minimally fined and filtered after selecting the best few barrels for the Queen. A poised and refined expression of southern Margaret River Chardonnay. The cooler season has contributed to its aromatic notes of honeysuckle and citrus blossom, along with hints of vanilla pod, lemon zest, nougat, minerals, flint, bread dough and stone fruits, which complete the bouquet. The wine is delicate and supple on the palate with fruity notes of citrus, stone fruits, figs and melon, all seamlessly complemented by delicate oak flavours and textures.
“The finish is chalky and citric, providing tautness, definition, length and balance to make this wine a perfect choice for graceful ageing.” Five to eight years.
“At the time of discovery, the premier cave of the Margaret River region, the Lake Cave, was named Queen of the Earth for it’s breathtakingly beautiful crystalline formations. This stunning crystal wonderland, located just six km from our vineyard, inspires our best wines. Chardonnay from our Forest Grove vineyard, deep in the southern reaches of the Margaret River region, exhibits a purity and fineness of flavour and a delicate balance from the interaction of time in oak.”
Available to Retail.
No Cellar Door.
Web: www.flowstonewines.com
Phone: 0487 010 275
Address: Flowstone, PO Box 570 Margaret River W.A., 6285.
Effectively a wine from two separate pickings. The first pick had 33% (of total pick) undergo Carbonic Maceration for 14 days, then destemmed, inoculated, fermented and left on skins for seven days. The second picking was in the traditional style, destemmed and crushed inoculated and fermented with twice daily pump overs. The wine was then blended and matured in large format French Oak for six months and then bottled, unfined. Violet floral lift with a background of smoky oak. The palate shows ripe raspberry and blueberry fruits. Medium bodied, soft, juicy and succulent. Blueberry and red currant flavours with a suggestion of raspberry confectionery. Concentrated, vibrant and engaging.
“Enjoy on release and up to 2029.”
“Higher Plane wines are truly single vineyard and a reflection of their surroundings. A cool pocket of Margaret River (Karridale) nestled within Karri forests 10km from the coast. The site is subject to the patterns of both Indian and Southern Oceans – particularly the convergence of the two, resulting in cooler ripening periods giving the wines freshness and tension. The close – planted vineyard allows for more inter – vine competition and less vegetative growth, leading to better quality fruit.”
Available to Retail.
Phone: 08 9755 9077
Open: Monday to Friday 10.00 to 5.00
Address: 98 Tom Cullity Drive, Cowramup, W.A., 6284.
Web: www.higherplanewines.com.au
100% Gruner Veltliner grapes grown on a mixture of vineyards in lower Austria, on mainly conglomerate and loess soils. Selection of only physiologically ripe grapes; crushed, cooled, skin contact for two hours; pressed then transferred to stainless steel for fermentation at 18° C. The wine was then left on lees for three months to add texture. The wine shows delicate fresh green apple fruity aromas. The palate brings lemons, lime and peaches. A solid fruit core, rich in finesse with a beautiful length and mineral tones.
A wine to be enjoyed in its youth.
With a good variety of white wines in this Dozen I simply looked around to add further to it. This wine, the Gruner was one of many thoughts, and getting encouragement, again from Jo (who admitted to keeping some of this wine at home) it found its place. The above soils (conglomerate and loess) add up to what I expect are ‘poor’ in quality, and once again I’m amazed the intensity of flavours they support in the fruit. According to the Notes: “The ideal wine for seafood, white meat and light dishes like salads; also very pleasant as a refreshing summer wine on a hot day, or just to be enjoyed by itself.”
Available to Retail.
Web: http://www.weingut-huber.at
Sydney Wholesaler: Bacchus Wines
Phone: 1300 309 773.
Grapes (Gamay variety) were handpicked and winemaking was done by carbonic maceration. (whole bunches undergo fermentation in a carbon dioxide environment). Ageing in stainless steel vat. Appearance is a nice ruby colour with violet glints. The nose, intensive, floral and fruity with dominant strawberry and raspberry aromas. Spontaneous and well balanced, this wine is noted for its fruity and lively taste, which makes it a very convivial wine.
To be enjoyed on release, Beaujolais Villages will improve up to five years.
“On chalky, clay and granite soils, Beaujolais Villages vineyards cover 5850 hectares or 25% of total Beaujolais production. 39 villages in the central and northern part of the Beaujolais Appellation.” In 2023 as part of a small group I was listening to a native of the Loire Valley talking passionately about a generational effort to restore Beaujolais’s reputation. You couldn’t disagree with him, that marketing had done some damage. And when Jacki Osborne told how she had recently enjoyed this wine I thought what a nice opportunity. I poured and aired this wine for a couple of hours on a warm February day. Initially, in the glass the nose was flattish with alcohol volatiles, but 15 minutes in the fridge, it was a completely different proposition with pleasant aromatics and fruit nosing freely.
Available to Retail.
Web: www.maison-jthorin.com
Sydney Distributor: Young and Rashleigh
Phone: (02) 9967 5900
83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 6% Malbec and 6% Petit Verdot. Fruit was hand picked and sorted and then destemmed at the winery. The must was inoculated for primary fermentation in closed stainless steel fermenters. Pump overs three times per day to enhance colour and flavour extraction. Once primary fermentation was complete the wine was then pressed and then transferred to old French barriques for Malolactic fermentation. The wine was then blended, analysed and returned to barrel for 18 months ageing. Sterile filtered but no fining before bottling. Colour is deep red brick, bright condition. The nose is dominated by bright aromas of cherry chocolate, blueberry, blackberry, marsh mellow and rose. In the background there are tarry and cedar notes and toasted oak. Carrying over to the palate, the blueberries and red currant are immediately apparent. The firm tannin structure is accented nicely by the generosity contributed by the medium – full body of the mid – palate. The acidity has a gentle linearity which pairs nicely with the texture derived from the French oak.
“The vibrancy and liveliness of the fruit weight makes this wine very appealing and should be enjoyed while in its youth.”
A recent email from Fesq & Co reminded me of this wine. I was unaware of its existence until about a year ago, when another Fesq & Co email enlightened me. Unfortunately I couldn’t include it in the Dozen at the time. This time it was a matter of impulse purchasing.
Available to Retail.
Visit by appointment only.
Web: www.mosswood.com.au
Sydney Wholesaler: Fesq & Co.
Phone:(02) 9313 1888
Sourced entirely from our own vineyards, our Estate grown Semillon is released in its infancy to preserve the freshness and vitality that is Hunter Valley Semillon. Hand picked and fermented before bottling within three months of production, this wine showcases all that is special about Hunter Semillon. Citrus, freshness and a unique ability to pair with seafood. A nose accentuated by lemongrass, citrus and dry herbs with a palate of fresh lemon and lime, beautiful mouthwatering acidity and succulent fruit sweetness. Hunter Valley Semillon ages like no other.
“10+ years.”
“A wonderful year in the Hunter Valley, plenty of rain produced great crops with excellent power and freshness. Remaining cool over the summer, with great fruit the result, picking intensely flavoured berries with great natural acid and excellent balance.” And from the back label: “The Estate range of Mount Pleasant is a taste of Australian winemaking history. Upholding a legacy of excellence established over 100 years ago, these Hunter Valley wines use fruit from our own vineyards, and have an ‘old world’ elegance and exceptional balance.” I was quickly corrected when I ordered what I thought was the 2023 Elizabeth: “the Elizabeth is 2018, you mean the Estate Grown, which is 2023.” So, it’s effectively a new product, and in winemaking terms is described above. And not to be confused with what has been recognised as Elizabeth since the 1950s. I notice the Estate Shiraz is still called Phillip. I don’t seek the last word on this, because that should be: ‘its a bloody good drink!’
Available to Retail.
Phone: 02 4998 7505
Open: Thursday to Monday 10.00 to 4.00
Address: 401 Marrowbone Road, Pokolbin, NSW, 2320.
Web: www.mountpleasantwines.com.au
Machine picked in the cool of the night and immediately pressed to stainless steel. The press cut was made at 650 litres per tonne. Pressings were combined with free run juice as we find this gives the wine more complexity and texture. A healthy natural wild yeast fermentation commenced after a few days. The ferment was kept ultra cool at 13° C throughout fermentation and racked clean off lees once complete. This wine is as rare as hen’s teeth with only 120 dozen made given the scarcity of fruit. We think it is something special and worth celebrating. Fresh green pear on the palate paired beautifully with a mouth coating natural acidity.
“Drink young and fresh.”
“Fruit sourced from a vineyard that would have to be in contention for the best view in the valley. The vineyard not only offers stunning views it is also the perfect spot to grow delicate, fine boned aromatic Pinot Blanc a relatively unknown variety in Australia, but one we love. The vineyard straddles the ridge line at an elevation of 652m. The cooler climes of this high elevation site mean it is predominantly planted with Pinot and Chardonnay for sparkling base. There is however a solitary row of Pinot Blanc amongst the Chardonnay planted as a trial in the 1990s.”
Available to Retail.
Phone: 03 5725 1698
Open: Friday to Sunday 11.00 to 5.00.
Address: 1317 Eldorado Road, Eldorado, Victoria, 3678
Web: www.nomadsgarden.com.au
The grapes were whole bunch pressed, (no hard pressings) to tank. The ferment long and cool, using a specially selected yeast originating from Germany, this Riesling is slightly off dry in style, with the residual sugar balancing the naturally high acidity. A delicate nose of white jasmine and crushed kaffir lime leaves, leading into a refined and elevated palate, finishing with a twist of lemon sorbet.
5+ years.
“Our single vineyard Braidwood Riesling is hand picked from the Sapling Yard vineyard, 25km north of Braidwood, opposite the Budawang Range. The climate is cooler than Canberra and the soils consist of decomposed granite over a deep layer of silty clay allowing the vines to access enough nutrients to develop complex aromatic wines. Sapling Yard wines are defined by non-descriptive wine making. Every vintage is different and each parcel of fruit is treated individually.” Taken entirely from the wine label. The last sentence quoted, applies here. You may remember the 2022 Riesling in February 2023. That wine was “dry” by comparison, and I thought very impressive. The wines are interesting and, I think worth keeping in touch.
Sapling Yard has limited access to Retail. Contact me, or Cellar Door.
Phone: 0410 770 894
Open: Friday 12 to 8, Sat.10 to 5, Sun 12 to 4
Address: 23 Malbon Road, Bungendore, NSW, 2621. Saturdays 11.00 to 4.00.
Web: www.saplingyard.com.au
87% Shiraz and 13% Grenache. On a whim we planted a couple of rows of Grenache on the Strawhouse vineyard in 2021. This was in part of the vineyard vacated by 1997 plantings of Sauvignon Blanc. Although Grenache is associated with warmer climates we thought that as we get warmer and drier, it might be worth a punt. This is the first pick to make it into wine. Blended with our Shiraz, it made two hogsheads only (a paltry 790 bottles). The wine has lifted exotic spice and enticing floral characters. Its medium bodied, almost Pinot like in feel, with soft textured tannins. The wine is an excellent expression of the cool Strawhouse site. Unfined and unfiltered.”
Nothing in the Notes from Justin, this wine ‘has legs.’ Five + years.
To explain the ‘legs’ bit. Over several social and casual tasting opportunities, the first, around August last year, was a look at Justin’s 2024 wines which I thought were very impressive. Then, after picking up wine boxes in Molong I dropped in again, and he showed a Gruner Veltliner which is still ‘settling’, and needing more time. And finally, his soon to be released Chardonnay. He was very happy with it, and you could see why. I asked “February?” and he said “yes.” On leaving he gave me a bottle of the Edith, quickly noting it to be a 2024. I eventually opened it a month or so later and left about a glass in the bottle and put it in the fridge. In the circumstances, a week later I poured that remaining glass and was amazed that it hadn’t fallen over, it stood proud and fresh, confirming Justin’s comment the 2024 vintage produced very good fruit in Orange. Hence 5+ years cellaring. The Chardonnay had its own and as it turned, out timely story.
Cellar Door or contact me.
Phone: +61 402 498 419
Open: 12.00 to 5.00 Friday, Saturday and Sunday
Address: Boree Lane, Lidster, via Orange, 2800.
Web: www.strawhousewines.com.au
Each individual vineyard parcel was harvested separately with the majority of batches then destemmed prior to fermentation. Gentle daily pumping over of the skins during fermentation helped extract a soft, complex structure. The skin maceration was extended for up to three weeks following fermentation to further integrate and soften the tannins. Following eight months ageing in stainless steel tanks and a short time in seasoned French oak, the individual blocks were blended to create the ideal marriage of components. Intense blackberry, wild raspberries, red liquorice and hints of pepper aromas combine to produce a fruit dominant complex wine with a subtle touch of oak spice on the finish. The wine is deliberately released at a youthful age to maximise the beautiful perfume and fruit freshness.
“Made to be enjoyed while young.”
The choice of this wine was simple enough. The variety Syrah / Shiraz is what was wanted and further interest was the fact that it was made from vines originally developed from cuttings from Hermitage as well as being grown on the Gimblett Gravels vineyards. Two other notables were a heavily rewarded wine show record and all at a cost to the Dozens that reflects very good value. Interestingly, a local wine writer gave its cellaring potential ‘now to 2031.” Cheers.
Available to Retail.
Phone:+64 (0)6 879 7778
Open: Wed-Sun 11 to 5 Bookings advisable
Address: 2396 State Hwy 50 (Roy's Hill Rd) RD5, Hastings, New Zealand 4175
Web: www.trinityhill.com
Sydney Distributor: Young and Rashleigh. Phone: (02) 9967 5900.
“Sourced from two vineyards near Woodside in Adelaide Hills. The slightly lower elevation around 340m gives the extra warmth to structurally ripen the Gamay. All parcels were hand harvested with 90% of the blend seeing 100% closed tank Carbonic Maceration under Argon for 21 days before being fermented out on their skins for a further seven days. 10% of the blend was 50% whole bunch open ferment from the later picked parcel for 28 days on skins. Post ferment, all parcels were pressed directly to French oak puncheons (5), one new. All parcels remained on lees until bottling to retain freshness and build texture for four months. Colour is deep plum purple, brick red hue. Intensely aromatic, savoury nose with fresh wild strawberry, morello cherry, satsuma plum with hints of cherry cola. Subtle mezcal spice and integrated dried herb notes balance the subtle baking spice and savoury oak. Purity of fruit is balanced with the carbonic maceration and whole bunch characters displaying cherry kirsch, wild strawberry, plums and blueberries with hints of dried sage and thyme. The palate is rich and juicy, integrated with subtle oak spice and also has a good savoury edge. Good linear acidity backbone with savoury tannins are met with generous fruit weight and persistence and fresh fruit on the finish.”
Enjoy on release, but will develop up to five years in the bottle.
It seemed appropriate to add a local ‘Gamay’ wine with the inclusion of the first Beaujolais to the Dozens. As well, in the warmer part of the year. Since the decision and chatting away to people, I’ve been surprised so many people say they enjoy the variety and how many people now grow it.
Available to Retail.
Web: www.xowineco.com.au
No Cellar Door.
Sydney Wholesaler Bacchus Wine Merchant Ph 1300 309 773.
All prices on this web site are in $AUD
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