Small Winemakers Tasting Dozens |
The Classic Autumn Dozen | |
| CSU SPARKLING NON VINTAGEWinemaker Andrew DrummWinemaker’s NotesAlthough this is a 'Non Vintage' wine, the grapes came principally from the 2012 vintage. 2012 was a cool season in Orange with challenging conditions for the later varieties. The Chardonnay grapes were picked in early March before the worst of the autumn weather of 2012. Chardonnay is one of the classic varieties for premium sparkling wine. Made using traditional methods this wine balances the crisp character of Chardonnay (quite lemony fruit flavours) with the complex flavours derived from aging on yeast lees in bottle. It is crisp and clean in the mouth with freshness and complexity in equal parts. An ideal aperitif. CellarEnjoy on release and over the short term. Additional NotesA CSU Non Vintage was last seen in the August 2013 Dozen. This wine is here principally as a result of its still very alluring nature when, with Justin Byrne a bottle was approached for the third time in a week. Amazing how much 'life' it was showing. Justin said it was used at a tasting the previous weekend. This was the following Saturday. To add further, it had also been approached mid week. Naturally I purchased a few bottles, and by coincidence a similar, unplanned exercise resulted. The difference being, I didn't last more then a few days between drinks. Must be the city! AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6933 2453 |
| d'ARENBERG THE NOBLE WRINKLED RIESLING 2011Winemaker's Chester Osborne & Jack WaltonWinemaker’s NotesLate harvesting took place by hand in small volumes when fruit flavours and the Botrytis cinerea was at an optimal point. The grapes were gently crushed before receiving a small amount of skin contact. The juice was separated by the gentle process of basket pressing. Fermentation occurred in a number of small tanks using neutral yeast to cope with the high natural sugar levels and to avoid dominating the fruit characters. The fermentation stopped naturally, retaining a considerable level of residual sugar. If 'death by chocolate' truly exists, then this is certainly the vinous equivalent. Decadence is an understatement. Oozing sweet marmalade, raisin and honeysuckle flavours. The true threat however of this wine lies in the zesty, vibrant lemon and lime sherbet notes, which ensure that we are left salivating and returning ever so quickly for more. CellarThe last part of the last sentence says it. Drink an enjoy now, “but will become a more 'complex' wine over the next few years.” Additional NotesThe Riesling variety was the first wonder here, as it isn't the usual call sign that Semillon is. It is well dressed already with wine show awards, and can now add a Trophy from the recent Royal Sydney Show. These wines are spectacular offerings of flavour on many levels, just wonderful. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8329 4888 |
 | GOMERSAL BAROSSA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012Winemaker Peter PollardWinemaker’s NotesCabernet Sauvignon from selected Barossa Vineyards has been carefully fermented to preserve the traditional fruit flavours and then matured using French and American oak to add further complexity. This Cabernet Sauvignon combines vibrant aromas of chocolate and black currant with flavours of ripe plum and mint, to produce a full bodied wine. Cellar“Drinking beautifully now and will reward medium term cellaring, five to eight years.” Additional NotesA fairly serendipitous inclusion here, even if based on the wine itself. It isn't the big hitter in the modern cricket bat mould, but rather a full bodied wine from the Barossa that gives you a chance to think about it and linger toward another sip. Not the army instructor type really. It came as a result of Nicholas Gibson making contact after a 'break' in which he is linking up with new people in production. A long time supplier of the Dozens, it is good to see him with new offers in his bag. He knows the Dozens well and offers a lot of potential to their good as far as I can see. I need to know more about the Gomersal wines, and I will! AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8563 3611 |
| HAREWOOD ESTATE SHIRAZ CABERNET 2012Winemaker James KellieWinemaker’s NotesThe individual batches were fermented in small open fermenters and then matured in a mixture of new and older French and American oak barriques. Following nine months in oak, the wines were carefully blended and returned to barrel for a further six months prior to bottling. The final blend is 60% Shiraz and 40% Cabernet. The wine has a bright crimson colour with youthful purple hues. A rich aromatic nose displaying an enticing combination of cinnamon, black pepper, plum, licorice and blackberry supported by vanillan oak and hints of leafy tobacco. On the palate, initial flavours of soft plums and blackcurrant leads to a more structured mid palate of raspberry and aniseed with a long textured finish of spicy oak and mocha supported by fine velvet tannins. Cellar“The wine's balance and structure, combined with the use of screwcap technology, suggest that it will improve with up to 10 years careful cellaring.” Additional Notes“The careful selection of varieties and sub regions has produced a wine that combines the licorice and black cherry of Frankland River Shiraz, the pepper and blackberry of Mount Barker Shiraz and the leafy elegance and raspberry of cool climate Cabernet Sauvignon from Porongurup in the Great Southern Wine Region of Western Australia.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 9840 9078 |
 | HOLM OAK PINOT NOIR 2013Winemaker Rebecca DuffyWinemaker’s NotesWhilst 2013 was a bigger than average vintage across Tasmania, it was also warm and dry, which meant that there was adequate warmth and sunshine to ripen the crops and as a result we have produced an outstanding Pinot in 2013. We had a lot of different batches of Pinot which we treated in a variety of ways. The resulting blend is about 10% whole bunch which adds a little stalky, savoury complexity and 100% wild fermentation was used to make this wine. All batches were fermented in small open fermenters which were hand plunged daily. The wine was matured in French oak for nine months with about 20% of the oak being new oak. This wine has beautiful lifted strawberry and cherry characters on the nose with a touch of spice adding complexity. The palate has fine, chalky tannins; lovely fruit concentration and a silky texture. CellarThree to five years, but really lovely now, at this time of year. Additional NotesI had this wine in the 'want list' for the last Dozen, but unfortunately there was none in Sydney at the time. The tip and consequently the inclusion that 'wasn't' was as a chance trying of the wine with a family member who gets a regular mixed dozen from Holm Oak. So it is all about timing, which in small production is often the case. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 03 6394 7577 |
 | MEEREA PARK HELL HOLE SEMILLON 2014Winemaker Rhys EatherWinemaker’s NotesThe wine is made from fruit harvested off a 40 year-old Semillon block on the Kindred's family's 'Lochleven Estate' vineyard in Pokolbin. The hand-picked fruit was fermented in stainless steel tanks and bottled under screwcap in September 2014. Traditionally, no oak or cellar maturation was undertaken. Pale coloured with a green tinge; lemon grass and lemon sherbet with a a hint of tropical aromas on the nose. The palate is intensely flavoured with a great acid line giving it focus. Cellar“Medium to long term. 10+ years.” Additional NotesAlso from the Notes: “Winemaker's comments: 2014 was an exceptional Hunter vintage overall, being referred to as the 'vintage of the century.' Semillon did especially well as always and the wines are full flavoured and have terrific natural acid balance.” Some will be amused by such a claim, especially 'Inter-Staters.' Many probably remembering Mr M Tyrrell's regular claims to such a vintage. Almost yearly! It is a complex place, and as I have been looking around for more 2013s, as was obvious in the last Dozen, I have also pulled out some old books on the Hunter and have been reminded of that 'complexity' due mainly to fickle weather. “A good year in every five,” meaning good winter rain and a dry ripening period through to summer. Sounds simple. However there is talk of the 2014s 'being the business.' More research please. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 4998 7474 |
 | OSSIAN QUINTALUNA VERDEJO 2013Winemaker Veronica OrtegaWinemaker’s NotesThe vineyard which produces this wine sits at 850 metres. Certified Organic, 50% of the vines are 160 years and old planted before the outbreak of Phylloxera at the end of the 19th century. The other 50% come from 10 year old vines. Grapes were hand harvested in small boxes. Clusters are destemmed and then pressed in a pneumatic press. The juice decants to a lower turbidity and is then passed into 10,000 litre stainless tanks where it ferments at 17º C with its own yeasts. Before bottling, it rests on its own lees for three months in stainless steel. Cellar“Enjoy on release and over the short term, the next two to three years.” Additional NotesAlso in the Notes regarding the Ossian philosophy: “At Ossian we cultivate our vineyards organically and hold the longest – running organic certification in the region. They do not use a single synthesised chemical product and do not use fungicides or herbicides. They make their own compost from organically – fed sheep manure and organic straw. With such fantastic raw material, they sought Burgundian winemaker Pierre Millemann to see if the Burgundian white winemaking philosophy and techniques would adapt well to their old vines and local grape variety: Verdejo. Their objective was to make a top quality wine that would evolve and age in bottle for 10 to 20 years and under Millemann's guidance, they made their first wine in 2005.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. |
 | PAZO SAN MAURO ALBARINO 2012Winemaker Cristina MantillaWinemaker’s NotesSoils in the vineyard are geologically ancient, notably with stony topsoils and excellent drainage. Grapes were hand harvested, in the 200 to 250 metres vineyard. Manual selection of grapes was followed by destemming. Cold soak for several hours followed in order to extract maximum fragrance and mineral nuances of the terroir. Slow fermentation in stainless steel vats at low temperatures of between 16 to 17º C with both natural and selected yeast strains. An intense varietal personality with brilliant straw – yellow colour. Powerful floral aromas alongside aromas of fresh fruit. In the mouth, mineral notes are detected, followed by a long and flavourful finish. Cellar"Aged in the bottle a few months before release, this wine is made for early drinking. Now. Additional NotesAlso from the Notes: "Vine cultivation has always (for centuries) been intimately linked to the history of the Pazo (grand house). The first modern Bodega was built in 1988, when the Pazo San Mauro winery was established. This winery makes only two wines from the Albarino grape, which are produced from grapes grown on the estate owned vineyards." AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. |
 | RUTHERGLEN ESTATES RENAISSANCE VRM 2013Winemaker Marc ScalzoWinemaker’s NotesHarvest was in small batches at various levels of ripeness. The best batches were fermented using our indigenous yeast in a combination of new and old premium French oak hogsheads and puncheons, then allowed to mature in these barrels for eleven months, stirring the lees as required to enhance the the varieties natural textures. Large oak vessels were used to allow the lovely oak nuances to complement, but not overpower each of the varietals aromas and flavours. The blended proportions of each varietal produces the most complete, balanced and harmonious wine, with the characteristics of each variety evident and complementary. On the nose there are delicate honeysuckle, apricot, flinty and tropical fruit notes, with stylish hints of cedar and toast from premium oak and lees contact. The palate is mouth filling, has a creamy texture and ripe fruit flavours, with enduring citrus and toasty notes on the finish. This elegant blend is truly a harmonious white wine. Cellar“Up to three to five years.” Additional NotesAlso from the Notes: “Viognier is a rich wine, almost oily in texture, with heady aromas and flavours of honeysuckle. As the highest proportion of this blend, Viognier contributes fruit weight, richness and structural backbone. Rousanne is also highly aromatic, has a high level of natural acidity, and contributes tropical cashew notes and length of flavour. Marsanne is known for citrus characters and its ability to age and develop gracefully.” From the first pour, smell and landing in your mouth, you know the 'feeling' of a winner. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6032 7999 |
 | ROSS HILL CABERNET FRANC MERLOT 2012Winemaker Phil KerneyWinemaker’s NotesA signature wine of Ross Hill, displaying the all too rare synergy which can develop between these two primal grape varieties. A warm vintage producing layered aromatic fruit, ripe yet elegant fruit flavours, complemented by typical cedar, cassis and spice. A rich yet structured palate finishing clean, savoury and fine. Cellar“Tannins are well balanced with the fine textured palate; a wine which will age gracefully for up to ten years. Additional NotesThe Cabernet Franc Merlot blend was the spark for me. And if you let it breathe for 15 to 30 minutes its ready to go. “Ross Hill vineyard is situated on the gentle north facing slopes of Griffin Road, Orange at an elevation of 750 to 850 metres. Such elevation presents itself in our wines that are so distinctively high altitude and cool climate produce. The 12 ha of grapes include Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in the whites and the reds are made up of Merlot, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. In 2008 at 1018 metres a further five acres were planted to Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir in fertile volcanic basalt soils at Wallace Lane.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6365 3223 |
 | STANTON & KILLEEN MERLOT CABERNET FRANC CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012Winemakers Brendan Heath and Simon KilleenWinemaker’s NotesCarefully harvested parcels of premium fruit were fermented and co-fermented, then blended and matured in French and American hogsheads for 15 months to produce a medium bodied style red with soft tannins. The perfect union of these three varieties has resulted in one of our most popular wines. Deep cherry red in colour with lifted aromas of blackcurrants, cranberries and coffee oak notes. The palate displays fresh rhubarb, cherry and silky mouth feel, contributed by the Merlot. The predominant Cabernet varieties add rich fruit flavours on the mid palate and the Cabernet Sauvignon adds firm structure on the back palate with a long dark chocolate and cashew finish. Cellar“Drink now. Or cellar two to three years.” Additional NotesThe point has been made many times that red table wines from Rutherglen have, over the years, been changing from more extracted or tannic wines (once referred to as 'hero wines'), to the more medium bodied or elegant ones of today. This isn't to say they have lost character at all. (There's a long of history of high quality winemaking in early years in Rutherglen). They still maintain their firmness, but they open up now to show a much more 'lifted' interesting side. AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6032 9457 |
 | THE WILSON VINEYARD CLARE VALLEY SHIRAZ 2010Winemaker Daniel WilsonWinemaker’s NotesThe Pepperstone Shiraz comes from two vineyards, the initial parcel from the Handplunge block next to cellar door, and the balance from our Creek Block. The parcels are fermented separately in small open topped fermenters, and a rotating fermenter. Fermentation is kept cool to preserved as much fruit flavour as possible. The wine spends up to 24 months in oak, with about 50% of that time in new and used American oak, and 50% of the time in used French oak. The aim is to produce a wine with a high proportion of natural fruit flavour, slightly accentuated by judicious use of quality oak. The colour is dark red black with deep red edges. The nose is concentrated and powerful showing chocolate, coconut and licorice and a touch of red berries. The palate is plummy with chocolate and coffee bean flavours overlaying a tightly structured mid palate with a spicy finish. A rich and flavoursome wine with concentration, power and long finish with ripe tannins. Cellar“Drinking well now and will continue to age up to 10 years.” Additional NotesI ran into a wine rep before Christmas in a local bottle shop who had started working for the Sydney Distributor of Wilson Vineyard wines. The same one (both of them) I knew from years ago. Last I'd heard was that the Wilson Vineyard had moved on in Distribution, mostly as the wish for 'brighter pastures' by his son Daniel. I phoned John a couple of weeks ago and he confirmed they are back with his original Distributor, his son, Daniel is now the winemaker. And he has stepped back, checking the fences, as he put it. That dry, oh so dry wit still working well. . AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8843 4310 |
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