Small Winemakers Tasting Dozens |
The Classic Winter Dozen | |
| BORAMBOLA HIRAJI'S SPELL SHIRAZ 2011Winemakers Chris Derez and Lucy MaddoxWinemaker’s NotesThe colour has an almost black centre with a deep purple and crimson rim. It has a lifted nose of wild blueberry and pepper. The palate has firm tannins and a chary oak finish. A lovely fruity full style of Shiraz, with a nose and palate dominated by fruit flavour. Overall this wine displays smooth light tannins which integrate with dominant fruit flavours. CellarEnjoy now or cellar up to five years. Additional Notes“Gundagai is NSW's newest designated wine region. The region is classified as warm to cool climate with ideal conditions for producing quality 'estate grown wines.' The vines surrounding the historic homestead 'Borambola' were planted by the McMullen family in 1995.” Borambola is a new line in Jacki Osborn's Portfolio, and it caught my immediate attention. Gundagai seems to do Shiraz very well. Already committed to this wine, I purchased a bottle of their Cabernet Sauvignon at the Epping Hotel last week purely out of interest! It is now well noted. I phoned her back and told her to remind me (totally unnecessary of course) for the next Dozen. I added to her amusement that I had come across another one of her quarries. All very nice. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6928 4210 |
| DANDELION MENAGERIE OF THE BAROSSA GSM 2011Winemaker Elena BrooksWinemaker’s Notes085% Grenache, 10% Shiraz and 5% Mataro. Deep red with hints of violet on the edges indicating youth. On the nose intriguing rose petals and a summer pudding of lifted red fruits, berries and hit of cinnamon and Asian spice. Wild cherries, Damson plums and mulberries and an impressive structure balanced by spicy oak. The palate, opulent, intense red berries balanced by soft velvety tannins and supple oak with great balance from the acid renown in Barossa Grenache. Cellar“Ready to drink immediately and will also reward cellaring and decanting. Five to eight years.” Additional NotesThis is the first Grenache Shiraz Mataro under the Dandelion label and the second of two wines here made by Elena Brooks. The other being the Sister's Run Shiraz. Both were given the enthusiastic 'thumbs up' by David from Single Vineyards Sellers. What is to like about these wines is while they are full bodied Barossa of significant alcohol (greater than 13% as a guide), they are very approachable with very good flavour, nice wines, with elegance of their origin. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery Details Phone: 08 8556 6099 |
 | HEMERA ESTATE SINGLE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2013Winemaker Alex PeelWinemaker’s NotesOnce the grapes have been identified to be of optimum ripeness the parcels are brought into the winery where they are whole bunch pressed in the air bag press. Only the free-run juice is used in this wine as this contains the purest fruit flavours and minimal phenolics. The fermentation took place at the cool temperature of 10º to 14º C for maximum fruit retention. Partial fermentation in French oak combined with lees stirring has added texture and mouth feel. This individual wine is crafted to create a seamless harmony between fruit purity and fine French oak. Melon and lemon lift the spice from the French oak with supporting stone fruit flavours. Lees stirring has added creaminess to the mid palate that is round and crisp with nectarine and peach complimented with subtle flint and minerality and exceptional length.Cellar“Enjoy now, and will develop over the next few years.” Additional Notes“The 2013 vintage saw very low rainfall in the winter and spring leading up to fruit ripening. This resulted in small berry and bunch formation and the commencement of vintage earlier than the average. The smaller berries produce intense flavours and slightly higher than normal sugar levels at harvest. The resultant wine has pure varietal flavour and excellent mouth feel and length on the palate.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8524 4033 |
| KRINKLEWOOD SEMILLON 2012Winemaker Liz Jackson & Rod WindrumWinemaker’s NotesThe fruit was crushed with only the premium free-run juices being used. Fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks under cool conditions, and the wine was bottled early to retain the freshness of primary fruit characters. Minimal filtration, and classically, there was no oak maturation. Pale straw in colour with a luminous green hue, this Semillon has lifted notes of passion fruit, pineapple and lime. It has a fine and delicate palate with an elegantly structured backbone. Floral and citrus notes from the nose carry onto the palate; finishing dry. Cellar“Up to five years.” Additional NotesI have been seeing a lot of Elizabeth lately, the Mount Pleasant Elizabeth. I have found it fascinating to see the 'now released' much younger Semillons from McWilliams. The two year–olds that show the promise, as seen in the occasional purchase of the premium 'five year-old' releases, which are wonderfully delicate and complex in middle age. This Krinklewood reminded me of that form, a young wine with a nice future, probably beyond the five year recommended cellaring. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 9986 1644 |
 | MIRAMAR RIESLING 2012Winemaker Ian MacRaeWinemaker’s NotesAromatic, floral with great length and the classic bright clean acid finish. Lemon, limes, pineapple and kiwi fruit to complete the fruit salad and the finish is also dry. CellarRiesling is one of Australia's great white varieties and typically ages well for many years.” Additional NotesIn his last newsletter accompanying the periodic Dozen, Ian wrote: “Riesling is my favourite variety and I have found some 2010 and a couple of 2012 as well.” They were well received. And very matter of factly on his Miramar Website he says: “I have been making this variety for over fifty years.” That's Ian! His Dozens are wonderful and because he has been around for so long he can add a quite a variety and often an aged red or white. I have always enjoyed his Riesling wines and remember asking him what it is that makes a good one and it is in his description. Referring to the acid, the word 'bright' was 'the message.' Mudgee doesn't feature prominently in conversations about Riesling as say the Canberra Region, let alone the Clare or Eden Valleys and I have heard of reservations by winemakers about the variety in the cooler Orange region, mainly due to soil types which is totally acceptable, but Ian, simply, often 'cracks it' with his offerings. I was also taken by his 2010 Shiraz and intend to follow up on it. AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6373 3874 |
 | MT ROSA PINOT NOIR 2010Winemaker Jeremy RallstonWinemaker’s NotesA classic Pinot Noir from what is probably the most southern vineyard in the Central Otago region of New Zealand's South Island. Central Otago is New Zealand's most southerly wine region. It's also the most inland region and boasts the highest altitude in the country. The wine shows red currant and wild exotic fruit aromatics followed by a warm rich and spicy texture with lively acidity and freshness and a lingering finish. Cellar“Medium term three to five years.” Additional Notes“Mt Rosa was officially registered as a wine producer in 2001. Located on a former very marginal sheep station the vineyard comprises some 35 hectares. The dry stony soil that made the pasture so poor though and the cool climate proved ideal for the growing of Pinot Noir grapes. Owner and winemaker Jeremy Rallston is as passionate about Pinot and this has led him to embrace many of the principles of sustainable agriculture at Mt Rosa. The vineyard is all grassed but every ninth row is planted to alyssum flowers which helps to attract bees, provides cover and a breeding ground for a parasitic wasp that preys on leaf roller larvae, thereby eliminating insecticide use and provides a natural fertiliser when the plants are ploughed into the soil. A “controlled droplet” sprayer is used with Mt Rosa now needing less than 15% of the amount of spraying required in a conventional vineyard. Four soil water monitors govern the amount of water needed to meet the growth requirement of the vines saving copious amounts of both water and power.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery details:
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 | RENACER PUNTA FINAL SINGLE VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012Winemaker Eduardo Gabarini (Consultant Winemaker Alberto Antonini)Winemaker’s Notes90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. Grapes were hand-picked in plastic bins with manual cluster selection. Maceration for eight days with pumping over and delestage ('oxygenating' the juice with the idea to making it less astringent and providing more fruit character in the final wine). Fermentation for eight days in stainless steel with native yeasts at 25º C. Full malolactic fermentation. Aged for eight months in second use French oak barrels and six months in bottle before release. Bright ruby red colour with fresh aromas of plums, berries and cherries, combined with spicy notes of pepper, green pepper and eucalyptus. The French oak provides smooth notes of vanilla, chocolate and cinnamon. Juicy on the palate, with notes of cherries, plums and berries. Nice acidity and a long finish. Great partner for meat, seasoned food, pasta and cheeses. Cellar“Peak drinking 2013 to 2017.” Additional NotesAnd along came Glen Brereton from Untapped Fine Wines to the local Italian restaurant to talk further on the wines he now sells. Previously when I asked him for a recommendation of a South American Malbec, he came up with the Renacer, so when I asked him about another Cabernet Sauvignon, he again went to Renacer, and I was keen to have a look. As a quality varietal wine it speaks for itself, elegant even in its youth. I must make the point, I did include this wine even though I use the guide of generally not including wine above 14.5% Alcohol. I was surprised it is 14.8%, a tad over but I didn't notice it at all. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. WineryPhone: +54 261 5244416 Web: www.bodegarenacer.com.ar/eng Australian WholesalerWeb: www.untappedwines.com |
 | SISTER'S RUN CALVARY HILL SHIRAZ 2011Winemaker Elena BrooksWinemaker’s NotesThe colour is Barossa blood red: deep crimson with purple hues. The nose: Super blackberries and pure unadulterated 99% Cocoa chocolate. Lifted blood plum and raspberries and some dark pepper and brambly spice smells. The palate opens with generous blue fruits like mulberries and blueberries, a full and frank Shiraz start. Typical Barossa, generous, flavoursome and super sweet blackberry pie with dark chocolate mouth feel. The 'after palate' begins with sweet fruit then tightens up with fine fruit and oak tannin. Great flavour and composition. Sweet spice cuts through and hints of jamminess. The finish is youthful austerity as you would expect from such a classic old school Shiraz but there is also plenty of fineness to the tannin and dark chocolate nuances in the lengthy finish. CellarA terrific drink now and will cellar easily in medium term five to eight years. Additional NotesI came across this wine in a portfolio 'newish' to me, that of Single Vineyards Sellers , the Sydney Office. David Boyce is the contact and when asked about this Barossa Shiraz he was generous with his praise. In winemaking via the Elena Brooks connection, Sister's Run is somehow 'cousin' to Dandelion and Heirloom labels. That said, David is spot on, it's a very good Barossa Shiraz and very good value and easily fits into this Dozen for all those reasons. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8556 6099 |
 | STANTON & KILLEEN CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012Winemaker Brendan HeathWinemaker’s NotesDeep ruby red. Aromas of lifted blackcurrants and violets. The palate is fruit driven with fresh spices and mint layered with beetroot and cinnamon tones. This medium to full bodied wine will develop beautifully in the bottle but is a great drink now due to its fresh, fruit driven characters. Cellar“Drink now, cellar two to five years.” Additional NotesIn the 80's, I worked for a Retailer who among other interests in wine, bought a lot of red wine from Norm Killeen under the Moodmeere label (spelling?). I remember them as fairly tannic wines that were difficult to approach when young, but with age (five + years) were hearty accompaniments to a steak or similar. These days, with Brendan Heath as Winemaker, and six monthly six packs from the Cellar Door, you can see the gradual change toward much more elegant wines. I opened the most recent six pack and pulled out this Cabernet Sauvignon with no real thought to it, other than to have a look at this one first. And with a 'without notice' statement out of the poured glass my attention was 'cornered' and with every smell and taste that followed there was confirmation of this change to elegance from this, for me, Rutherglen 'soft spot.' AvailabilityFor this Cabernet Sauvignon, Cellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6032 9457 |
 | STEVENS FLEURIEU TEMPRANILLO 2013Winemaker Graham StevensWinemaker’s NotesTempranillo grapes were sourced from the Southern Fleurieu for this 'first-up' Stevens Tempranillo wine. Grapes were crushed into open fermenters where it was hand pumped and plunged twice daily to increase skin to juice contact. The wine was then carefully basket pressed so as not to over extract unwanted tannic compounds, and then matured in American and French oak for eight months. The wine is medium red with a purple rim. Fresh fruit with cherry and strawberry characters and a brambly edge. A touch of vanilla from the oak maturation. CellarI phoned Graham to ask about the cellaring, suggesting to start with two to three years, and he said: “longer than that, probably, we'll wait and see, its the first time I've crushed Temp.” Additional NotesAs happened with their sourced Southern Fleurieu Cabernet Sauvignon, their flyer landed in the Post Office box as this Dozen was coming together. The front cover has a sepia like image of Graham headed McLAREN VALE'S MOST WANTED. I phoned agent Carolyn to gauge the enthusiasm surrounding this wine. It was there in bulk, the only regret being no follow-up 2014 vintage was made due to excessive rain. Back to the phone call to Graham regarding cellaring, I asked him about an odd character on the nose, on pouring. One of initial concern, but it 'blew off' after airing. In any case I poured another glass and for almost a week I kept it, and for the whole time, after a day smelt purely of roses. “That's a good sign,” he said, adding the 'odd' character could be something to do with using nitrogen to expel oxygen while bottling. Good information, and the remaining wine left the glass very nicely after three days in the fridge. AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone/Fax: 08 8383 0997 |
 | TIM ADAMS PINOT GRIS 2013Winemaker Tim AdamsWinemaker’s NotesHarvested in the cool of the early morning, the fruit was crushed and pressed, with all pressings returned. A cool fermentation proceeded for over two weeks and was stopped before completion to leave a very slight residual sweetness. The wine has been cold and protein stabilised to our normal standards and immediately bottled under screw cap to ensure freshness. Rather than removing the naturally occurring colour from our Pinot Gris, as a true expression of varietal character we choose to retain it in this wine. The resultant slight pink / bronze hue matches the equally rich and robust fruit characters on the palate. The 2013 Pinot Gris reveals opulent pear, lychee and peach flavours complemented by subtle lemon zest, fullness with slight sweetness in the middle palate and cleansing acidity. Cellar“The wine can be enjoyed while it is young and vibrant or will reward short term cellaring.” Additional NotesThe word 'opulent' used in the Notes is perfect. There were three Pinot Gris wines to choose from for this Dozen, and I think this one was then most interesting of them. I think it was that richness that did it ultimately. The 'tinge' of colour adds a thought and is well described in what are overall very informative Notes. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8842 2429 |
 | URBAN UCO TEMPRANILLO 2012Winemaker Jose Mario SpissoWinemaker’s Notes100% Tempranillo. The grapes are manually picked and taken to the winery where bunches go through a double sort on the sorting table. They are destemmed and only half the grapes are crushed, with whole berries in the ferment. Fermentation is done in stainless steel with a maceration period of twelve days. The wine is aged for three months in French barriques. Each vintage imparts seasonal nuances in the wine, but they are consistent in their complexity and a broadness of aromas then flavours of cherry, redcurrant with hints of smoke. In the mouth it is round and 'soft,' with a touch of vanilla from the oak. Cellar“Peak drinking, now and over the next couple of years.” Additional NotesAt the same meeting with Glen when he promoted the Renacer Cabernet sauvignon, I was mindful to ask him if he thought there were any other Malbec wines that took his fancy. He said there were 'always others,' but how about a Tempranillo. He had recently seen this one in a comparative tasting with some Spanish wines, the home of Tempranillo and thought it stood up very well. I reckon it adds nice variety to the mix, which is always in mind when sorting the players. As well a comparison to Graham Stevens wine. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Web: www.ofournier.com Australian WholesalerWeb: www.untappedwines.com |
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