Small Winemakers Tasting Dozens |
The Classic November Dozen | |
| ALLANDALE MATTHEW SHIRAZ 2010Winemakers Bill Sneddon and Alex WoodWinemaker’s NotesFruit was sourced from an old, unirrigated vineyard in the centre of Pokolbin in the Hunter Valley. Grown on red volcanic soil at the foothills of the Broken Back Range. Cold fermented in open fermenters and traditionally hand plunged, this wine was then transferred to American oak hogsheads for 12 months to add age and complexity. Rich berry / plum flavours balanced off with new vanillin American oak. A classic spicy / savoury Hunter style with a long lingering finish. CellarMedium term five to eight years. Additional NotesIt has been a long time between wines from Allandale, the last, their 2006 Semillon in May 2007. After the August Dozen I contacted the Sydney offices of four wholesalers I knew to have a good representation of smaller producers, simply to update on the changes that are always happening. A few surprises are always there, but as well, some things stay wonderfully the same. Checking out their website, not just for these Notes, there are good things said of a number of their Chardonnays, but I am still thinking Semillon, after a classic Hunter Shiraz. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 4990 4526 |
| BORTHWICK VINEYARD PINOT GRIS 2011Winemaker Paddy BorthwickWinemaker’s NotesThe harvested fruit was processed quickly into tank to retain the vibrant aromas and fresh acidity. Settled and inoculated in tank and barrel for a long slow cool fermentation. The wine was lees stirred and blended after five months on lees, filtered and bottled. (40% fermented and aged in old oak, balance in tank). This native of France and Italy is a fantastic variety to grow in New Zealand, but demands the same attentive treatment as Pinot Noir. Perfumed aromas of pears and spice with a rich middle palate. Displays a purity of aromatic fruit which follows through on the wonderful palate. Fantastic balance of flavour and texture. CellarAn “enjoy young” style. Additional Notes“Established in 1996 the family owned and managed Borthwick Vineyard perfectly captures the special region of Gladstone, New Zealand. Ancient stony, alluvial soils and cool climate allows the grapes to grow in harmony in their environment. Sustainability practices and minimal intervention in the vineyard and winery gives our wines their distinctive single vineyard characteristics and flavour.” Last time I heard of Paddy was on a visit to Marlborough more then ten years ago, and then earlier this month I saw Borthwick Vineyard in a local Portfolio, fantastic, I must try. Paddy was my next door neighbour at College in the mid 80s. Nothing strange to have a neighbour, but he was always friendly, always dressed at some stage in various Rugby kit and forever a smile. Nothing seemed to faze him. Not even winemaking! AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: +64 274 673 478. |
 | CHALKERS CROSSING TUMBARUMBA PINOT NOIR 2011Winemaker Celine RousseauWinemaker’s NotesGrapes for this wine were grown in the cool climate of the Tumbarumba Region of Southern NSW. The wine was matured for twelve months in French oak barriques. The colour is medium red and the nose is spicy with raspberry aromas. On the palate, red plumb flavours followed by a savoury mid-palate and a long finish. Cellar“Best drinking now to 2021.” Additional NotesWhen settling for the Chalker's Cabernet for August, I put the thought of their Pinot 'on hold' for now. For much of the same reason it was included in its 2002 model (Nov 2006), I asked for a sample of this, the current vintage. 'Tumbarumba' was a big influence, but also, again, it was to be the 'some degree' of French perspective the winemaker would add to the wine. The colour is subtly more 'concentrated' if that is an acceptable descriptor, but it is the leanness of the freshly poured wine that first stands it apart from the more 'fleshy' locals. As expected, exposure to air brings out its true colours. The winemaking notes describe the nose as 'spicy with raspberry aromas,' but it does it with such elegance, it is left up to the palate to back it up, which it does. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6382 6900 |
| DELATITE DUNGEON GULLY 2008Winemaker Andy BrowningWinemaker’s NotesA lovely softer blend that in 2008 is made up of Merlot and Malbec in equal volumes; as in the original blends of almost twenty years ago. The fruit comes entirely from our own vineyards and was picked over two weeks in mid to late April. The warm, berry characters of the Merlot combine with the dark blood plum and dry spiciness of the Malbec. The palate is of medium weight, with round fruit and tones of chocolate and vanilla. Cellar“Cellar for up to ten years.” Additional Notes“Our red grapes are crushed as they arrive at the winery and the must will cold soak for up to ten days before being warmed up and allowed to ferment. Ferments are allowed to begin naturally without the addition of packaged yeast.” Traditional methods follow: small open top vessels with hand plunging, pumping over (temperature control is available if ferment gets too hot), basket press and wood selection and treatment to individual needs. “Delatite started following Rudolf Steiner's teachings on biodynamic agriculture back in 2001 and have now been using his methods across all the estate vineyards since 2005. What's clearly evident is that our soil structure has improved markedly and there are far more earthworms and tiny invertebrates evident close to the surface under the vines. The immeasurable benefits include better fruit structure and flavours therefore improved wine quality.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 03 5775 2922 |
 | DYSON'S VIOGNIER 2008Winemaker Allan DysonWinemaker’s NotesThe fruit for the Dyson Viognier is grown on our Maslin Beach vineyard in the McLaren Vale Wine Region, 2.5 kms from the coast on South Australia's Fleurieu Peninsula. The Viognier is grown with a thick straw mulch covering the floor of the vineyard. The natural breakdown of the straw increases the fertility and productiveness of the soil, cooling and nurturing the vine roots and enhancing the natural intense flavours of the Viognier to develop slowly. The fruit was hand-picked in late March and chilled to 10º C before crushing and basket-pressing. The juice is cold settled with 75% fermented in mature French oak Barriques, with the balance fermented in stainless steel tanks. Pressings are fermented separately and blended back later. Controlled fermentation takes three to four weeks to complete. After fermentation the wine is allowed to settle and start to mature on yeast lees whilst the unique Viognier flavours develop. Minimal handling and filtration are practised to ensure that the flavours are protected at all times. Stone fruit, tropical apricot flavours, along with citrus characters and balanced acid on the palate. Cellar“Drinking superbly now.” Additional NotesThere's a thread of an idea with Allan's Viognier. He is really upbeat on Chardonnay / Viognier blend he made. Depending on circumstances, perhaps, try the parts before their sum. AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8386 1092 Web: www.dysonwines. |
 | HAMELIN BAY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009Winemaker Julian ScottWinemaker’s Notes96% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Merlot. 30% new French oak barriques and the balance 12 to 14 months old. Red garnet hue with a deep red centre. Aromas of blackberry with notes of fresh rubbed herbs and freshly tilled earth and cocoa. Maturation in French oak has added a spicy complexity. A medium to full weight palate with moderate length, encompassing lovely earthy flavours lead to a strong savoury tannic finish. Cellar“This wine will continue to improve in the medium term, now and over the next couple of years.” Additional NotesHotter weather was a consideration for the inclusion of this wine, but also a 'need' perhaps, for a 'standard' local wine to accompany the variety in this lot. Hamelin Bay wines is a family run business of the Drake-Brockman family who have links to the Margaret River Region going back to the first settlement by the Bussell family in 1830. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone/Fax: 08 9758 6779 Web: www.hbwines.com.au |
 | HOLM OAK RIESLING 2012Winemaker Rebecca DuffyWinemaker’s NotesWe picked our 2012 Riesling in great condition when the fruit was showing lovely lime aromatics with quite high acidity. The juice was fermented at quite low temperatures: one batch with an aromatic yeast strain and one with a yeast strain known to metabolise malic acid. Following fermentation the wine was stabilised and bottled under screw cap to ensure maximum freshness. The 2012 Riesling is a fine and delicate wine with lovely aromatics and a minerally palate. The nose displays aromas of lime leaf and jasmine with some spiced apple characters, whilst the palate shows mineral characteristics with fantastic fruit purity and steely acidity. A year in the bottle has allowed the wine to fill out and gain some lovely palate weight. Cellar“Enjoy now and over the next five + years.” Additional NotesA family member mentioned Holm Oak, earlier this year, after a trip to Tassie. And a purchase of a selection of their wines. Always on the lookout for a Riesling, I again saw Holm Oak in a new Portfolio of wines and I was immediately interested. The Riesling stuck as a thought, so I asked the family member his thoughts on it. He being a long time serial wine-type, and in my judgement far better 'on the nose' than me, I took note when he gave it a positive call. So, this is the second time a Holm Oak wine has been included, the last one, their Pinot Noir was in November 1998. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 03 6394 7577 |
 | KRINKLEWOOD VERDELHO 2012Winemakers Liz Jackson and Ron WindrumWinemaker’s NotesThe 2012 vintage gave us sunny perfect weather right through to the end of January and the commencement of the verdelho harvest. Picking was slightly early this year and we were fortunate enough to avoid the subsequent rain. The verdelho fruit was picked on January 21st displaying perfect pH, fruit flavour and baume. The fruit was crushed and only the premium free-run juice was used. Fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks under cool conditions. The wine was bottled early with very fine filtration to retain the freshness of the primary fruit characters. Pale straw with green hue, this wine has fragrant rich tropical fruit and herbaceous characters. On the palate, tropical characters of ripe melons and passion fruit are balanced by natural fruit sweetness and, classically Krinklewood, a zesty citrus finish. Cellar“Up to eight years.” Additional NotesI was always planning to get back to Krinklewood and their new vintages as they came through. A good impression was made with all their last year appearances, although there wasn't a Verdelho. Yet in the Upper Hunter, Andrew Cruickshank is enthusiastic about Verdelho from the region, generally. With the first-appearance of warm weather: tropical flavours and green hues are perfect provisions. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 9986 1644 |
 | LOMA LARGA CHARDONNAY 2011Winemaker Cedric NicolleWinemaker’s Notes80% of the grapes (Clone 76) were loaded direct to the press in whole bunches. The remaining 20% (Clone Mendoza) were destemmed and gently crushed with 50% of these grapes undergoing three hours of skin contact prior to pressing. For Clone 76, 100% of settled juice was transferred to new French oak barrels for fermentation (at 16º to19º C) with natural wild yeast, lees stirred. Clone Mendoza fermentation was in stainless steel tank at 14º C. Aged 10 months, blended and bottled. This dry, brilliantly golden Chardonnay shows elegant aromas of white blossoms and fresh pear. After a very fresh entrance with lively acidity and full body, the white fruits appear back in the mouth. The finish is mineral with a hint of toasted brioche. CellarMedium term three to five years, peak about now. Additional NotesAfter the August Dozen was complete, I spoke to Glen Brereton of Untapped Wines of an idea of perhaps including two wines: a Malbec, an important variety in South America and a Chardonnay, citizen of the World. He came up with this Chardonnay from the Casablanca Valley (north west Chile), from vines planted in 1999. Described as a “cold area with extreme temperature variation between day and night. A cool breeze from the Pacific Ocean causes this phenomenon in the Valley. This, in addition to the poor soil on the hills and the plain allowed an exceptional terroir for wine.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Australian Wholesaler Web: www.untappedwines.com |
 | RENACER PUNTO FINAL MALBEC 2012Winemaker Pablo Profili (Consultant Winemaker Alberto Antonini)Winemaker’s NotesMalbec grapes grown on 50 year old vines from Mendoza (central west Argentina) were hand-picked and sorted prior to maceration for three days at around 8º C. Alcoholic fermentation with native yeasts over seven days in stainless steel at 24º to 25º C, followed by Malo-lactic fermentation. Ageing principally in stainless steel but with a touch of French oak to add complexity yet maintaining fruit purity. Typically an intense, dark violet colour. The nose is fruity with plum, cherry, mint, blackberry, coffee, cinnamon and dried fruits. Malbec is full and voluminous in the mouth. The tannins are soft and do not dry out on the palate. CellarDrinking really well now and will develop over the next few years. Additional Notes“Malbec is native to south-west France where it is also known as Cot. It was introduced to Argentina in 1852 (brought from Bordeaux) where it adapted very well due to the excellent terroir and climate that Mendoza had to offer. Malbec grows extremely well in Lujan de Cuyo in Mendoza because the cold nights, high altitude, and terroir allow for ideal ripening of the grapes without the loss of acidity. Lujan's rocky soils, great exposure to the sun, and fresh water coming directly from the Andes create an ideal growing environment for Malbec. The altitude of the vineyards varies between 850 and 1000m above sea level.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. |
 | ROUTE DU VAN PINOT NOIR 2011Winemaker Tod DexterWinemaker’s NotesBrick red, bright, a hint of crimson, medium. The nose is sappy perfume, rose, earthy, tobacco, fungi, complex, savoury, spice, smokey, clean, fresh, cherry, floral and attractive. The palate is medium weight, sappy, earthy, rustic, hint of sweet fruit, fine tannin, good length, savoury, spicy, yummy, great with food, spicy plums, easy drinking, not heavy, stewed plums, hint of orange and chocolate. CellarMade to drink now and over the first few years. Additional NotesAs with the previous two wines from these people they say they compile their notes by asking friends and family to taste the wine and say what they see in it. Many see much. The two 'previous' wines (Dolcetto Shiraz August 2012 and Gioia Blanco November 2012) were really interesting creations and now is a good Pinot Noir time. I had forgotten the fuel gauge showing full on top of the screw cap, and seeing it again brought a smile, and a thought: these people know how to enjoy a wine. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Web: www.routeduvan.com Web: www.winestock.com.au |
 | SEVENHILL ST. IGNATIUS 2010Winemaker Liz Heidenreich (Br John May)Winemaker’s NotesThe 2010 St. Ignatius is a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 10% Malbec and 10% Cabernet Franc. The wine was fermented in separate batches in open slate fermenters over 10 to 14 days, capturing intense extraction of colour and flavour. After basket pressing, ageing was undertaken in a combination of old and new French oak. The wine is marked by aromas of dense, dark berry fruits. The palate is rich and concentrated, with spicy red berry fruits, hints of chocolate, black olive and grainy tannins. Tannins will continue to integrate and soften over time. Cellar“Bottled under screw cap, the wine is drinking well now but will improve and soften over the next five to ten years.” Additional Notes“Named after the founder of the Jesuits, St. Ignatius, this is a wine of great stature.” This 'blend' jumped off the page at me as I looked through the local Distributor's Portfolio. I made enquires regarding samples, including this wine, but was told no samples for 'this' wine. It was the use of four varieties that sparked the curiosity. There was no question of quality at risk, as all Sevenhill wines from years in retail and visits to Cellar Door were all really good memories. I spoke to Bob at DWS in Sydney and with only a short conversation it was ordered. From the second the screwcap was cracked, and the first whiff had escaped, even not having poured the wine into a glass, I knew I had done the right thing. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8843 4222 Web: www.sevenhill.com.au |
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