Small Winemakers Tasting Dozens |
The Classic May Dozen | |
AMULET NEBBIOLO 2009Winemakers Ben Clifton and Sue ThorntonWinemaker’s NotesA difficult year coaxing the small crops through to maturation with extreme heat in February and no water. The Nebbiolo is a stayer coping with these conditions and sustained its crop to finish the fruit for picking. A deep chocolate / plum colour with floral and fruit driven aromas. The palate is dry with savoury undertones and those very firm Nebbiolo tannins filling the mouth. Cellar“This is a surprisingly approachable wine and drinkable now with very flavoursome food – cellaring will reward if you can.” Additional NotesIt was recently talking with Nicholas Gibson when he reminded me of Amulet's Nebbiolo. Somewhere back there, well beyond our current calendar, I remember reading about the great Barolo wines of Piedmont, and the surviving descriptor was of 'tar and roses,' and this always appealed to me. (Also appealing is what they seem to get up to down there in Beechworth with all those varieties they have to work with). Nicholas was saying that in a recent conversation with Sue (Thornton), she was very positive with this wine, and at such an early stage. I confess to some apprehension when including 'tannic' wines, but on the 'surprisingly approachable' call, a Nebbiolo. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 03 5727 0420 Open: Friday to Monday 10 to 5. Address: Wangaratta Road, Beechworth, Vic., 3747. Back To Top | |
d'ARENBERG THE NOBLE BOTRYOTINIA FUCKELIANA 2010Winemakers Chester Osborne and Jack WaltonWinemaker’s Notes77% Semillon and 23% Sauvignon Blanc from the Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale. Late harvesting took place by hand in small volumes when fruit flavours and the Botrytis Cinerea was at an optimal point. The fruit was gently crushed before receiving a small amount of skin contact. The juice was separated by via the gentle process of basket pressing. Fermentation occurred in a number of small tanks using neutral yeast to cope the high natural sugar levels and to avoid dominating the fruit characters. The fermentation stopped naturally, retaining a considerable level of residual sugar. There is a beautiful lemon butter character on the nose with a range of fruits including gooseberry, cumquat, green apple and mixed peel in the background. The palate is thick and lush with a wonderful silky texture. The lemon butter character is even more dominant on the palate with a deeper layer of green mango, lime cello and hints of frangipani. It is wonderfully complex and indulgent with a subtle edge. CellarBrilliant now and enjoy over the next few years. Additional NotesI thought I was hearing things when Jacki Osborn 'made the call' to this wine's title. And on seeing it in all its glory on a sample bottle there was a smile to be had. And what a nice wine. There is a reference and story attributed to a German botanist by the name Karl Wilhelm Gottlieb Fuckel on the back label. I will just add here from d'Arenberg's Release Notes: “Don't get any ideas about the name of this wine – Chester insists that it's all in the name of science..........” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8329 4888 | |
DYSON SANGIOVESE 2010Winemaker Allan DysonWinemaker’s NotesDry grown, these grapes due to the kind weather, were NEVER sprayed with any fungicide whatsoever, fermented in open fermenters, hand plunged and basket pressed (not very hard) then into stainless steel, and old barriques, with no wood value at all, just for storage. Fined prior to bottling with egg white (very soft fining), racked then bottled. The wine is dry, rich and subtle. Very traditionally made, I am very pleased with the way this wine is developing, wonderful mouth feel. CellarEnjoy now and over the next two to three years. Additional NotesI hadn't spoken to Allan since last August, just before his latest trip to Burgundy. He admitted he'd like to roll up his vineyard and bat on there in what is probably his spiritual home. I get the feeling he is thirsty for a 'Boarding Pass.' To the 'now,' I asked him what's new? And to my surprise his answer was this Sangiovese. "It's my first one, I grafted over a couple of rows of Chardonnay because I think it's a very good variety for Australia's climate. The 2011 vintage is now in bottle, and is a great follow on from this start up wine." Allan is one of those souls itchy to be creative and probably wonders what a chair is for anyway! AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone: 08 8386 1092 | |
GRACE FARM MARGARET RIVER CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2011Winemaker Jonathan MettamWinemaker’s NotesCabernet fruit was harvested at optimum ripeness and immediately crushed into open fermenters and inoculated, then hand plunged until dry. Malolactic bacteria was added to the wine which was then transferred to a combination of 35% new and 65% second and third hand French oak. To assist with wine development during oak maturation the wine was racked out of and returned to barrel three times over a twelve month period. The wine was then blended in tank and did not require fining during bottling. A classic Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon with intensity and finesse. The wine exhibits a rich concentration of cassis and blueberries supported by elegant tannins and complexity from maturation in French barriques. The lushness of the mouth feel and the depth of flavour is a testament to the terroir of the site located in the acclaimed sub region of Willyabrup. Cellar"This wine is approachable now but will also reward cellaring for up to 10 years." Additional Notes"Grace Farm is situated in the 'golden triangle' of the Margaret River wine region, in the lee of the Leeuwin Ridge in Willyabrup. The maritime influence provides cooling evening breezes which allow for slow ripening, elegant profiles and excellent natural acids. The vineyard is characterised by the distinctive forest grove soils which are typically of medium to low fertility." AvailabilityLimited availability to Retail. | |
KRINKLEWOOD CHARDONNAY 2010Winemakers Liz Jackson and Rod WindrumWinemaker’s NotesIn line with previous vintages of Chardonnay, this fruit was picked at optimum ripeness in the cool of the night. Of the free – run juice, a portion was fermented in French Troncais barriques. A small component also underwent wild ferment adding to the wine's complexity. The wine was left on lees for 10 months with regular stirring, before final blending and bottling. The wine is pale straw with a slight green hue. Citrus and orange blossom carry onto the palate and are layered with soft luscious characters. Beautifully lifted nutty notes of hazelnuts are delivered by nine months in puncheons and barriques. This is a delicate and fine boned Chardonnay. Cellar“Development potential of up to five years.” Additional NotesI read about Krinklewood Wines with great interest early last year and discovered Paul Stenmark's Winestock is the local Distributor. Initial inclusions were Semillon and Shiraz in last year's February and May Dozens respectively. With Chardonnay wines earmarked for upcoming Dozens already, by the time I got around to asking Paul if I could use their Chardonnay (February 2012), it was sold out. So, talking to Paul recently I was pleased to hear that the 2010 was now available. Enjoy. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 9986 1644 | |
LANA IL NOSTRO GALLO 2010Winemaker Joel PizziniWinemaker’s Notes78.5% Sangiovese, 14.5% Canaiolo and 7% Merlot. The fermentation temperature reached and was maintained at 30° C. Once the alcoholic fermentation was complete, free run juice was drained and the skins were lightly pressed. The wine was allowed to settle for a day before it was transferred to barrels for malic acid fermentation and ageing. After 14 months in mostly older oak, the wine was blended, fined and bottled. The colour is dense brick / cherry red with purple hues. The nose is exotic spice, dark cherry, lingering plum, dried herb, leather and earthy notes. The palate is soft and generous with talc like earthy and savoury tannins. The wine has soft acidity through the middle palate. It is a mid – weight wine. CellarReleased to be enjoyed now, in its “feisty and theatrical” way. Additional Notes“Italian wines styles have been coming out of the King Valley since the late 1990s. Italian families with a passion for their heritage and longings for their home country initially planted the Italian varieties Sangiovese and Nebbiolo. The list of varieties continues to grow. 'Lana' is a town in Italy's Trentino-Alto Adige region at the foot of the Italian Alps. This was once the hometown of the newly married Rosetta and Roberto Pizzini, winemaker Joel's grandparents.” The Lana range also includes Pinot Grigio and Prosecco, a lower alcohol and elegant sparkling wine style. 2012 vintage to be released. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 03 5729 8278 | |
MAN O' WAR MERLOT CABERNET 2009Winemaker Duncan McTavishWinemaker’s Notes42% Merlot, 27%Cabernet Franc, 19% Malbec and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. After hand harvesting the separate components were kept separate in the winery and treated differently according to what each variety could contribute to the overall style of the blend. Traditional pump overs and hand plunging techniques were employed during fermentation to extract either silken supple tannins or more robust tannins, depending on the variety. The components were then aged on lees for 11 months prior to blending and bottling. Lifted floral aromas combine with dark berry fruit with a hint of asphalt and tar to give a fragrant and savoury perfume to the wine. The palate is warm and generous with sweet succulent fruit, ripe graphite like tannins and vibrant acidity. Classically styled with the exuberance of the new world this blended red combines all the softness and fragrance of Merlot and Malbec with the savour and cassis of Cabernet Franc and the structure and power of the Cabernet Sauvignon. CellarFive to eight years Additional Notes"Located at the eastern end of Waiheke Island in New Zealand's Hauraki Gulf, Man O' War boasts a pristine and beautiful spread of coastal hillsides with high cliffs and stunning beaches. 150 acres of vines are strategically placed around Man O' Wars 4500 acres. Meticulous design ensures that the distinct soil profile and micro climate of each block is used to best advantage with different rootstock, clones and planting densities selected to match the specific terroir on offer." There's nothing like a good blend. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 09 950 3285 | |
MITOLO JESTER CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009Winemaker Ben GlaetzerWinemaker’s Notes20% of Cabernet fruit is left to dry for seven weeks on 10 kilogram drying racks in the traditional Amarone method. The fruit is fermented on skins for six days at cool temperatures to enhance the purity of the berry flavours. The wine is then pressed and undergoes partial barrel fermentation before being aged in two to four old oak for nine months. Complex aromas of red fruits, intermixed with dried flowers and herbs with nuances of cut plums, spice and liquorice adding depth of character. Rich with firm long tannins. Vibrant fruit fills the palate which rounds out to retain focus and richness. CellarMedium term plus 5 to 8+. Additional Notes"The Cabernet fruit is sourced from the Chinese Block vineyard in Willunga, which is located in the Southern part of McLaren Vale. The vineyard being close to the ocean has warm days and cooler nights allowing for an even ripening period. The soil structure is heavy grey loam over sandstone intermixed with black Biscay clay." I had significant help from Paul Stenmark of Winestock for this Dozen. After explaining that the February mix, to my mind contained some 'left field' wines, which was fun, I thought this lot should be a little more traditional especially as the cooler weather approaches. A couple of Cabernets could help, and this was a Paul suggestion. However with an ongoing suspicion when looking at higher alcohol Australian reds, and not wanting to be cleaned up with the first delivery onto the palate, I took it easy. There is power here, certainly, but with a welcome degree of elegance. Nice wine. AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 1300 571 233 | |
STEVENS CLARE VALLEY RIESLING 2011Winemaker Graham StevensWinemaker’s NotesThe grapes for this Riesling were sourced from the Clare Valley. They were dry grown on a 37 year old vines in the Armagh sub – appellation. Free run juice was chilled prior to inoculation with premium wine yeast and fermented in a temperature controlled environment. Lean and stylish, this wine shows youthful Riesling CellarYoung and fresh on release, it will continue to develop nicely under screw cap over the next five plus years. Additional NotesCarolyn Stevens sent a flyer a couple of months ago with what they had and what was coming up at Cellar Door. Having been a while since including one of their wines, I was interested to see what they had been doing. As Graham says on the back label here: “harsh weather in recent years led me to source fruit from other grape growing regions.” I was straight away interested in two wines. The Riesling would fit in nicely here, and I was also very interested in a Cabernet Sauvignon from the Fleurieu. Looks good. AvailabilityCellar Door or please contact me. Winery DetailsPhone / Fax: 08 8383 0997 | |
TE KAIRANGA RUNHOLDER PINOT NOIR 2008Winemaker Wendy PottsWinemaker’s NotesLow – cropping vines, selective hand – picking, small batch fermentation and sensitive oak handling contribute to producing this fine wine. Winemaking is hands – on with traditional fermentation in small vats (two to three tonnes), hand – plunging and gentle pressing off . Our winemaking facility uses 'gravity' principals for gentle handling of the grapes, a key contributor to quality. The 2008 Runholder showcases aromas of black cherries with hints of chary oak. This wine has a silky texture and is full of rich, ripe fruit accented by notes of savoury oak. CellarEnjoy now and over the next few years. Additional Notes“Te Kairanga was established 25+ years ago, and is one of Martinborough's founding wineries. Our focus is hand crafted, benchmark Pinot Noirs that showcase old world style with new world flair, and are true representations of the Martinborough growing region. Runholder is named for John Martin, a man who purchased a 'run' of land in Southern Wairarapa and founded the township of Martinborough, which is where the first vines in the region were planted. Te Kairanga currently sits on part of John Martin's original land holdings and the Runholder Pinot Noir is crafted from parcels of fruit from our home vineyards.” AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 06 306 9122 | |
TWO RIVERS HIDDEN HIVE VERDELHO 2011Winemakers Greg Silkman & Jim ChattoWinemaker’s NotesThe grapes were harvested mid January when fruit flavour was optimal. The wine had limited skin contact and was left for 24 hours to settle off lees before being fermented in stainless steel tanks. Fermentation took three weeks at temperatures of between 12° and 14° C. This wine was bottled early to retain primary fruit characters. The wine displays aromas of ripe tropical fruits and lovely honey musk overtones . The palate is generous, rich and full of these tropical fruit flavours whilst retaining a crisp fresh finish. CellarBuilt to enjoy on release. Additional Notes“This wine is from the spectacular 'Inglewood' Vineyard located in the upper reaches of the Hunter Valley. The name 'Two Rivers' was drawn from the vineyard's unique position, nestled on the banks of the Hunter River near its confluence with the Goulburn.” I was talking to Jacki Osborn, sometime in April about a new book I had recently purchased: “The Story Behind The Stripe, A 100 – Year History of d'Arenberg,” and the inclusion of one of their Botrytis wines in this Dozen. Near to next on my reading list, it was an automatic purchase, as such documentation of long term family owned wineries are special and valuable assets to the local Wine Industry. I waffled on. Jacki, never on the back foot covered the entire conversation, and at the same time tucked a sample of this Verdelho under my arm and here it is! AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. Winery DetailsPhone: 02 6547 2556 | |
YABTREE SHIRAZ 2008Winemaker Joel PizziniWinemaker’s Notes“The grapes were crushed and the juice fermented on skins in an open-top oak vessel and hand plunged three times daily for seven days before pressing. Joel has been able to produce a more European style red, one that still has ample flavour but shows a more savoury rather than sweet edge. Strong varietal berry and spice, but there's also a dry earthiness that gives it that savoury edge, and there's also well integrated French oak adding complexity." (Simon Robertson) Cellar"I reckon it will cellar well, at least in the medium term of five to eight years." Additional NotesThe first ever Yabtree Shiraz, the 2007 was in the February 2011 Dozen, and it was in Viticulturist Simon Robertson's Notes where the influence of reflected sunlight on fruit ripening was so interesting. With the 'savoury' edge you have a "more food – friendly wine. It's a great match for most red meats, but I particularly like it with lamb. Simon admits he is still on a steep learning curve with the Yabtree vineyard and making the most of its rare terroir. I'm looking at various canopy management techniques to take greater advantage of the reflected sunlight and I'm confident we can get alcohol levels down a bit more without sacrificing flavour." AvailabilityAvailable to Retail. |
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